
Hainan Prefecture Guide: The Sapphire Lake and the Emerald River
Located south of China's largest saltwater lake, Hainan Prefecture is a land of vibrant contrasts. From the golden rape flower fields of Qinghai Lake's southern shores to the turquoise waters of the Yellow River in Guide and the fiery red Danxia landforms, it offers a unique blend of highland pasture and "Jiangnan" elegance.
About Hainan - City Guide & Travel Information
1.Introduction: The Land South of the Sea Hainan Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture, named for its location south of the majestic Qinghai Lake ("Qinghai" means "Blue Sea"), lies in the eastern part of Qinghai Province. It serves as a vital transition zone between the Loess Plateau and the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau. The prefecture is characterized by its vast openness, high altitude, and the harmonious blend of agricultural and nomadic lifestyles. While many travelers pass through Hainan on their way to the depths of the plateau, the region itself holds some of Qinghai's most spectacular treasures. It is a place where the ruggedness of the northwest meets a surprising softness in its river valleys, creating landscapes that are both imposing and inviting.
2.Qinghai Lake: The Sapphire on the Plateau The crown jewel of Hainan is undoubtedly the southern shore of Qinghai Lake. As the largest inland saltwater lake in China, it is often described as a "blue mirror" dropped by deities onto the plateau.
- 3.The 151 Base (Erlangjian Scenic Area): Located in Gonghe County within Hainan, this is the most developed and famous observation point for the lake. It was once a torpedo testing base (Factory 151), adding a layer of modern history to the ancient landscape. Here, a long sand spit stretches into the lake like a sword, allowing visitors to walk right into the heart of the blue waters. The lake's color changes with the sky and clouds, shifting from deep indigo to pale turquoise, creating a mesmerizing visual symphony.
- 4.A Sea of Flowers: In July and August, the shores of Qinghai Lake in Hainan transform into a sea of gold. Millions of acres of rape flowers (canola) bloom simultaneously. The vibrant yellow of the flowers contrasts sharply with the deep blue of the lake and the azure sky, creating one of China's most iconic photographic scenes. It is described as a "golden carpet" laid out by the earth, bordered by the endless water.
- 5.Heimahe (Black Horse River): Located at the southwest corner of the lake in Hainan, Heimahe is renowned as the prime spot for watching the sunrise. Travelers flock here to stay in yurts near the water. As the sun rises over the vast expanse of the lake, the water shimmers with golden light, a moment of spiritual beauty that defines the Qinghai Lake experience.
- 6.Cycling Paradise: The ring road around Qinghai Lake, much of which runs through Hainan, is a "holy land" for cycling enthusiasts. It hosts the prestigious "Tour of Qinghai Lake" international road cycling race. Riding here, with the lake on one side and rolling grasslands on the other, offers an unparalleled sense of freedom,.
7.Guide: The Little Jiangnan of the Plateau Traveling south from the lake and crossing the mountains, one descends into the valley of Guide County (Guide). This area shatters the stereotype of the arid northwest. It is famously known as the "Little Jiangnan on the Plateau" (Jiangnan refers to the lush lands south of the Yangtze).
- 8.The Clear Yellow River: There is a famous saying: "The Yellow River is muddy everywhere, but it is clear in Guide" (天下黄河贵德清). Here, the Yellow River has not yet washed through the loose loess soil downstream. The water is a stunning, crystal-clear turquoise green, flowing gently between red sandstone cliffs and green willows. It is a surreal sight for those used to the river's namesake muddy color.
- 9.Danxia Landforms: Guide is home to the spectacular Ashgong National Geopark. The landscape features burning red cliffs and weirdly shaped earth forests formed by erosion. These red rocks stand in stark contrast to the clear green river and the lush orchards of pears and apricots that grow in the valley, creating a color palette that is incredibly rich and photogenic,.
10.Longyangxia: The Dragon's Gorge Hainan is also home to Longyangxia, the "Head of the Dragon" for the Yellow River's hydroelectric power. The Longyangxia Dam creates a massive artificial reservoir that looks like a high-altitude sea. The canyon here is steep and rugged, showcasing the raw power of the river as it cuts through the mountains. The reservoir also regulates the water, contributing to the clarity seen downstream in Guide.
11.Cultural Mosaic: Hainan is a melting pot of cultures. While predominantly Tibetan, with a lifestyle centered around yak herding and barley farming, there are also significant populations of Hui, Han, Salar, and Tu people. This diversity is reflected in the local architecture, festivals, and music. The "Hua'er" folk songs, a type of high-pitched mountain song popular across the northwest, are widely sung here during festivals, representing the "soul of the northwest".
In summary, Hainan Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture is a microcosm of Qinghai's best features. It holds the vastness of the lake, the surprise of a clear Yellow River, the drama of red canyons, and the warmth of a multi-ethnic culture. It is a destination that invites you to slow down, whether to watch a sunrise over the water or to taste a sweet pear by the riverbank.
Local Cuisine in Hainan - Food & Dining Guide
Hainan's cuisine is a hearty blend of Tibetan nomadic traditions and Northwest Muslim flavors, utilizing the abundant local livestock and the produce of the agricultural valleys.
Hand-Grabbed Mutton (Shou Zhua Yang Rou) This is the quintessential dish of the region. The lamb from the grasslands around Qinghai Lake and Guide is renowned for its tenderness and lack of strong gamey odor. The meat is boiled simply in water with salt and perhaps a few spices to preserve its natural flavor. It is chopped into chunks and eaten with hands, often dipped in a mixture of salt, chili powder, and garlic. It represents the hospitality and straightforward character of the local people.
Qinghai Yogurt (Suannai) Hainan's yogurt is famous for being rich, thick, and solid—often so thick it sits in a bowl like soft tofu. It is topped with a yellow layer of cream (skin) which adds a savory richness. It is usually served cold with a spoonful of sugar to balance the tartness. It is a refreshing and digestive staple after a meat-heavy meal.
Niangpi A popular cold noodle dish made from wheat flour. The gluten is separated and steamed to create a spongy texture (mianjin), while the starch forms the smooth noodles. It is served with a spicy, sour, and savory sauce containing vinegar, chili oil, garlic, and mustard. It is a favorite street food and appetizer.
Gamaianpian (Small Dough Squares) A comforting daily staple, these are small, thumbnail-sized squares of dough boiled in a savory broth with mutton, yak meat, or vegetables. It is warm, filling, and perfect for the cool highland evenings.
1.Guide Pears and Fruits: Thanks to the mild climate in the Guide valley, the region produces excellent fruits, particularly the long-handle pears (Changba Li), which are sweet, juicy, and melt-in-the-mouth. They are a delightful surprise in the high-altitude environment.
Accommodation Tips in Hainan - Hotels & Lodging Guide
1.Accommodation in: Hainan is concentrated in three main areas, each offering a different experience.
Qinghai Lake Area (Erlangjian/151 Base)
- 2.Experience: Staying here puts you right next to the lake. In summer (July-August), this is the most popular area.
- 3.Options: You can find everything from standard hotels like the Qinghai Lake Garden Hotel (often tent-style or villa-style) to local guesthouses.
- 4.Note: Prices peak significantly in summer. Conditions can be basic in smaller guesthouses, with public bathrooms being common. It can be chilly at night, even in summer.
Heimahe Township (Sunrise Watching)
- 5.Best For: Sunrise lovers and cyclists.
- 6.Vibe: This is a transit stop that has grown into a hub for watching the sunrise.
- 7.Options: Many Yurt Camps are set up near the lake during the tourist season. These offer a unique nomadic experience but are generally basic (often no indoor plumbing). There are also brick-and-mortar hotels in the town itself for those needing more comfort.
Guide County (Relaxation)
- 8.Best For: Those seeking comfort and lower altitude.
- 9.Vibe: The town is cleaner, warmer, and greener. It feels like a resort town compared to the rugged lakefront.
- 10.Options: Guide has several good quality hotels and hot spring resorts. It’s a great place to rest and recover from altitude sickness due to its lower elevation (~2200m).
Gonghe County (Chabcha Town)
- 11.Role: The administrative capital.
- 12.Options: Standard business hotels and government guesthouses. Good for a stopover if you are driving through to Yushu or other parts of the province.