Fusi Ancient City Ruins: Guide to the Tuyuhun Capital Near Qinghai Lake

Fusi Ancient City Ruins – The Lost Capital of the Tuyuhun Kingdom

The Fusi Ancient City Ruins (Fusi Cheng) stand on the Tielongtan Grassland about 7 kilometers west of Qinghai Lake, a site that once served as the political heart of the Tuyuhun Kingdom (284–663 AD). Unlike the polished reconstructed city walls seen elsewhere in China, Fusi remains an open archaeological landscape – a sprawl of rammed-earth outlines, a solitary earthen platform, and the quiet hum of the plateau wind. For travelers interested in the deep history of the Silk Road’s Qinghai Route, this ruin offers a rare chance to walk through a capital that hosted merchants, diplomats, and nomads for more than three centuries.

Historical Significance of Fusi Ancient City

The Tuyuhun Kingdom was a powerful nomadic regime founded by the Xianbei people who migrated from the northeast to the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau. At its zenith, the kingdom controlled a vast territory that connected the Central Plains with the Western Regions and the Tibetan Plateau. Fusi City, whose name in the Xianbei language means “City of the King,” was built in the 6th century AD, replacing earlier capitals and becoming the final seat of Tuyuhun power.

The Tuyuhun Kingdom and Its Role on the Silk Road

The Tuyuhun Kingdom was not a minor player in ancient geopolitics. It maintained diplomatic relations with the Northern Dynasties of China, the Tubo (Tibetan) Empire, and even Sasanian Persia.

The kingdom’s position made it a vital intermediary on the Silk Road’s southern branch – commonly called the Qinghai Route (or Tuyuhun Road). Trade in silk, tea, horses, and precious metals flowed through Fusi, and cultural exchanges brought Buddhism, art, and technologies from both east and west.

The Fall to the Tubo Empire

In 663 AD, the Tubo Empire, under King Songtsen Gampo’s successors, conquered the Tuyuhun Kingdom after a series of battles. The kingdom dissolved, and Fusi was gradually abandoned. Unlike many parallel capitals that were razed or rebuilt, Fusi was simply left to the grassland. This abandonment preserved the city’s basic layout for modern archaeologists, earning the site comparisons to a “Pompeii of the Grassland.”

The Legend of King Gesar

Local Tibetan communities often link the Fusi ruins to the epic hero King Gesar. Some traditions tell that the General’s Platform in the inner city was used by Gesar to review his troops. While these stories are not part of verified historical records, they add a layer of cultural depth to the site, especially for visitors familiar with Tibetan oral epics.

Architectural Layout: The “City Within a City”

The layout of Fusi is one of its most distinctive features. Unlike the symmetrical grids typical of Chinese capitals, Fusi shows a practical adaptation to the terrain and nomadic priorities.

Outer City and Inner City Structure

The outer wall forms an irregular square that encloses approximately half a square kilometer of land. Inside, slightly to the west of center, sits a smaller square walled section measuring 200 meters per side – the inner city or palace city.

This “city within a city” design is sometimes described using the Chinese character “回” (hui), a square inside a larger square. The outer wall measured about 200 meters, and the inner wall likewise creates a clear division between administrative/royal space and the general settlement.

The General’s Platform (Palace Foundation)

In the exact center of the inner city stands a large earthen platform, approximately 10 meters high. No stone foundations or roof timbers survive, but the platform’s size and central location strongly suggest it was the base of the royal palace or a ceremonial platform.

The source overview refers to it as a “General’s Platform” (Dianjiangtai), a common folk name for elevated structures in ruined cities across China. Climbing this platform rewards visitors with the best panoramic view of the entire ruins, the Tielongtan Grassland, and Qinghai Lake to the north.

Defensive and Residential Zones

The outer city likely contained residential quarters, workshops, and markets for the capital’s population. The walls are made of compacted earth (rammed earth) – a technique widely used in ancient China and Central Asia. The thickness of the walls (estimated at 6–10 meters at the base) indicates a serious defensive purpose. The inner city was the exclusive domain of the royal family and high officials, protected by its own wall.

Location and Setting: Qinghai Lake Grassland

Geography and Near Distance to Qinghai Lake

The ruins sit about 7 kilometers west of Qinghai Lake, China’s largest saltwater lake. The lake’s deep blue waters and distant mountains form a dramatic backdrop, especially in the afternoon light when the ruin’s earth walls glow amber.

The Tielongtan Grassland is a typical high-altitude steppe: flat, grassy, and dotted with grazing herds in summer. There is no formal park entrance; most visitors simply leave their vehicle at the roadside and walk across the grass to the first wall sections.

The White City Subsidiary

About 2 kilometers north of the main Fusi enclosure, there are remnants of a smaller fortification known as the White City (Bai Cheng). It likely served as a defensive outpost or a secondary storage area. The name comes from the lighter color of the earth used in its construction. Visitors with time and good navigation skills can walk to it, though the terrain is uneven and there are no marked trails.

Visiting Practicalities

Best Seasons to Visit

The best time to visit Fusi is from May to September. During these months, temperatures are milder (averaging 15–25°C / 59–77°F during the day), the grassland is green, and wildflowers bloom. In July and August, nearby rape flower fields are in full bloom, adding vivid yellow patches to the landscape.

Autumn (September) offers golden grasses and fewer crowds. Winter (October to April) is cold, with temperatures often below freezing, and the site is less accessible due to snow and strong winds.

Altitude and Plateau Safety

Fusi sits at 2,980 meters (9,777 feet) above sea level. For visitors coming from sea-level locations, the risk of acute mountain sickness (AMS) exists. Common symptoms include headache, dizziness, fatigue, and nausea. To minimize risk:

• Ascend gradually from lower-altitude destinations like Xining (2,200m) before reaching Qinghai Lake and Fusi.

• Stay hydrated; drink at least 2–3 liters of water per day. - Avoid alcohol and heavy exercise on the first day in the area. - If you experience severe symptoms (difficulty breathing, cough, confusion), descend to a lower altitude immediately.

Most travelers spend 30 minutes to one hour at the ruins. This is a short enough timeframe that AMS risk is low, but the walk from the road to the inner platform involves walking on uneven ground at altitude, which can be taxing.

How to Get There

Fusi is located in Shinaihai Township, Gonghe County, Hainan Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture. The site is roughly 40 kilometers west of the town of Heimahe (Heima River) and about 100 kilometers from Gonghe town (county seat). Most visitors reach the ruins by private car or taxi from Xining (about 3.5 hours drive one way) or as a stop during a Qinghai Lake loop tour. There is no public bus that stops directly at the ruins.

Driving directions: From Xining, take the G6 Beijing-Tibet Expressway west toward Golmud. Exit at the Heimahe (or Qinghai Lake South) exit, then follow a county road west along the lake shore. The ruins appear on the right (south) side of the road, marked by a small sign – it is easy to miss. Use GPS coordinates (37.0257° N, 99.5813° E) for precision.

Entrance Fee and Opening Hours

The source data indicates the site is free. However, because Fusi is an unprotected open site in a remote area, there is no consistent ticket gate. Visitors should be prepared to pay a small fee if a local caretaker is present, though this is not guaranteed.

As of the latest reports, there is no official opening hour; you can visit any time during daylight. However, preservation efforts may increase in the future, so always check with the Hainan Prefecture Cultural Relics Bureau or your hotel for the latest status.

What to See and Do

Walk the Earthen Walls

The most rewarding activity is to walk along the remnants of the outer city wall. The rammed earth is still up to 6 meters tall in some sections, giving a sense of the original scale. From the wall, you can see the inner city enclosure and the large platform.

Climb the General’s Platform

The climb is short but steep. At the top, the view encompasses the entire city grid, the grassland, and the distant lake. It is the ideal spot for photography and for understanding the city’s layout.

Search for Pottery Shards (Do Not Remove)

The site is rich with surface artifacts such as broken pottery, tiles, and occasionally small bones. These items offer a tangible link to ancient inhabitants. Legally, you must not remove any artifacts; leaving them ensures the site remains intact for future generations. It is illegal to take cultural relics from protected sites.

Visit the White City Ruins

If you have a 4WD vehicle and a bit of extra time, drive or walk north to the White City. This smaller fort is less visited and gives a sense of how the capital extended beyond its main enclosure.

Photography Tips

• Best light: Early morning (7–9 am) or late afternoon (4–6 pm) when the sun is low and casts long shadows that reveal the wall contours.
• Wide-angle lens: Essential for capturing the scale of the ruins against the grassland and lake.
• Drone policy: Drone use is not officially regulated at Fusi, but because it is a cultural relic site, local authorities may restrict flights. Always check with a local guide or the county cultural department. Do not fly over grazing herds, as it may disturb animals.
• Person in frame: Include a person on the wall or platform to show scale.
• No flash: Not needed; natural light is best.

Who Should Visit – And Who Should Skip

Ideal for:

• History enthusiasts fascinated by the Silk Road, nomadic kingdoms, or early medieval Central Asia.
• Photographers looking for stark historical landscapes with minimal infrastructure.
• Travelers already on a Qinghai Lake circuit who want a quick, off-the-beaten-path stop.
• Anyone comfortable with altitude and rough terrain.

Probably skip if:

• You are pressed for time on a loop tour (the ruins require a detour from the main lake road).
• You are not interested in ruins; there are no reconstructed buildings or exhibits.
• You have mobility issues (uneven ground, no paved paths, steep platform).
• You are traveling with very young children (no facilities, long drive).

Frequently Asked Questions

Where is Fusi Ancient City located?
It is located in Shinaihai Township, Gonghe County, Hainan Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture, Qinghai Province, about 7 km west of Qinghai Lake.

What is the Tuyuhun Kingdom?
The Tuyuhun was a powerful kingdom established by the Xianbei people from northeast China who migrated to the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau. It lasted from the early 4th century to the mid-7th century AD.

Is there an entrance fee?
As it is largely an open archaeological site on the grassland, there may not be a formal ticket gate. Visitors should check local regulations upon arrival, as preservation efforts increase.

What is the best time to visit?
The best time is from May to September, when the weather is mild, the grassland is green, and nearby rape flowers are in bloom.

Can I see artifacts at the site?
The site itself is mostly earth ruins. Some pottery shards and tiles can be found on the ground (do not remove them). For significant artifacts, visit the Qinghai Provincial Museum or local museums.

Is the site accessible by public transport?
No direct public transport. You need a private car, taxi, or guided tour from Xining or Heimahe.

How long should I spend at the ruins?
Allow 30–60 minutes to walk the main wall and platform. Add 30 minutes if visiting the White City.

Are there restrooms or food stalls nearby?
No facilities at the site. The nearest amenities are in Heimahe town (30 minutes east).

Practical Recommendations

• Bring water and snacks – no shops nearby.
• Wear sturdy shoes – the ground is soft in places and has rodent burrows.
• Sun protection – strong UV at this altitude; hat, sunscreen, and sunglasses.
• Wind layer – the grassland is exposed, and wind picks up in the afternoon.
• Respect the site – do not climb on fragile wall sections, do not remove artifacts, and pack out all trash.

Final Thoughts

Fusi Ancient City Ruins offer a rare window into the pre-Tibetan history of the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau. While the ravages of time have reduced the Tuyuhun capital to earth and shadows, the site’s raw authenticity transcends what a museum could present.

Standing on the General’s Platform with Qinghai Lake glittering in the distance, you can feel the weight of a forgotten empire that once connected the great civilizations of Asia. For those willing to go a few kilometers off the main road, Fusi rewards with solitude, history, and a landscape that seems to belong to another era entirely.