Xinghai Saizong Temple: The Hidden 'Second Potala' of Qinghai

Deep within the rugged folds of Saizong Mountain in Xinghai County, Hainan Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture, Qinghai Province, lies a spiritual sanctuary that defies the typical openness of grassland monasteries: Xinghai Saizong Temple (also known as Saizong Si or Saizong Meditation Center). Unlike the expansive, valley-floor gompas of the Amdo region, Saizong Temple is tucked into a mountain col, its red-and-gold structures appearing to grow directly from the surrounding rock. Revered as one of the "Three Great Sacred Mountains of Amdo" and often called the "Second Potala," this site combines sublime natural scenery with a unique religious harmony that draws pilgrims and travelers alike.

Location and Geography

Where is Xinghai Saizong Temple Located?

Xinghai Saizong Temple is situated in Xinghai County, which falls under Hainan Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture in Qinghai Province. The temple is built directly into the side of Saizong Mountain, a massif of red clay, gray stone, and vertical cliffs. The surrounding landscape consists of rolling Xinghai grasslands, which turn brilliant green in summer and are dotted with nomadic tents. The nearest major city is Gonghe, the prefecture capital, roughly 150 kilometers to the north; Xining, the provincial capital, lies approximately 270 kilometers northeast. Specific driving times are not available from official sources, but the route involves paved roads followed by mountain tracks.

Altitude and Climate Considerations

The temple itself sits at an altitude of approximately 3,800 meters (12,467 feet), while the peak of Saizong Mountain rises to 4,494 meters (14,744 feet). This placing ensures a high-altitude environment where altitude sickness is a real concern for visitors not acclimatized to the plateau. The climate is typical of eastern Qinghai: cold winters with heavy snow, cool summers with moderate rainfall, and strong diurnal temperature swings. The best travel window is from June to September, when daytime temperatures are mild (10–20°C) and grasslands are lush.

Spiritual Significance: The "Second Potala" of Amdo

A Unique Blend of Nyingma and Gelug Traditions

One of the most remarkable features of Saizong Temple is its tradition of housing two major schools of Tibetan Buddhism—the Nyingma (Red Hat) and Gelug (Yellow Hat)—in the same complex. This harmony is rare in the region. According to local accounts, the site originally belonged to the Nyingma tradition, but after the 9th Panchen Lama, Thubten Choekyi Nyima, visited around 1923, it developed into a center where both schools study and practice together. Monks from both lineages share the main assembly hall and conduct simultaneous pujas, making Saizong a living example of religious coexistence.

History of Saizong Temple

The history of Saizong Temple is tied to the sacred mountain itself, which has been a meditation retreat for centuries. Oral tradition holds that the mountain was recognized as the sacred abode of Avalokitesvara (Chenrezig), hence its title "Second Potala." The current temple structures were largely built or expanded during the early 20th century under the patronage of high lamas. The name "Saizong Jingxiu Yuan" translates to "Saizong Meditation Center," reflecting its primary purpose as a retreat for ascetic practice rather than a large public monastery.

Natural and Cultural Highlights

The Monkey Cliff and the Epic of Gesar

The most famous natural feature on Saizong Mountain is the Monkey Cliff (Shen Hou), a rock formation high up the mountain that strongly resembles a crouching monkey gazing into the distance. Local legend identifies this form as a divine general from the Epic of King Gesar, the heroic epic of the Tibetan people. Pilgrims stop to offer prayers and butter lamps at the base of the cliff, believing that the monkey spirit guards the mountain and its sacred sites. For visitors, the Monkey Cliff provides a dramatic photo subject, especially in the late afternoon light that accentuates the rock's contours.

The Sacred Mountain Kora

Devout pilgrims traditionally perform a 15-kilometer circumambulation (kora) around the entire Saizong Mountain. The path, which takes three to five hours to complete on foot, passes by several holy springs, self-manifested stone images, and small chorten (stupas). Pilgrims often stop to drink from the springs, believed to have purifying properties, and to turn prayer wheels fixed along the route. While the full kora is a physically demanding trek at high altitude, even a partial walk offers stunning panoramic views of the surrounding plateau and distant mountain ranges.

Ascetic Meditation Caves

Scattered across the cliffsides around the temple are dozens of small meditation huts and caves where monks and nuns retreat for extended periods of spiritual isolation. The most prominent is the "A-lags Great Meditation Cave," a simple stone enclosure that once housed high masters in solitary practice. These caves are not open to the public; they are active retreat spaces, and visitors should strictly observe privacy. It is possible to glimpse the whitewashed hut entrances from the temple courtyard or the lower kora path. The presence of these ascetics creates an atmosphere of profound silence and devotion—one of the temple's most powerful draws.

Practical Travel Guide

Best Time to Visit

The ideal months to visit Saizong Temple are from June to September. At this time, the grasslands are green, the weather is relatively mild, and the risk of snow blocking access roads is low. For a cultural experience, consider timing your visit to coincide with the Saga Dawa festival (the fourth month of the Tibetan lunar calendar, usually occurring in May or June). During Saga Dawa, the temple compound fills with pilgrims performing kora and attending special pujas, creating a joyous and colorful atmosphere. Autumn (September–October) brings crisp air and golden grasslands, but temperatures drop quickly after sunset.

How to Get There

Because the source data does not include verified route specifics, the following guidance is based on general regional knowledge for remote monasteries in Hainan Prefecture. Most visitors base themselves in Gonghe (the prefecture capital) or directly in Xinghai County town. From Gonghe, take the G6 highway south toward Madoi or Huashixia, then turn off onto county roads toward Saizong Mountain. A high-clearance vehicle is advisable for the final unpaved section. Public minibuses may sporadically run from Xinghai County town to the temple area, but schedules are not publicized. It is wise to arrange private transport or join an organized tour from Xining that includes remote monastery visits.

What to Bring and Altitude Safety

Given the temple's elevation of 3,800 meters, proper acclimatization is vital. Spend at least one or two days in Xining (2,200m) or Gonghe (2,800m) before ascending. Bring warm layers, rain gear, sun protection (the high-altitude UV is intense), and ample water saline snacks. Motion sickness medication may help on winding mountain roads. Avoid rushing the kora; a slow, steady pace reduces the risk of altitude sickness. If you experience severe headache, nausea, or dizziness, descend immediately.

Suggested Duration and Activities

No suggested duration was provided in the source data. Based on typical visitor patterns for remote monasteries with limited facilities, a practical visit could range from two to three hours (temple courtyard, main halls, Monkey Cliff viewpoint) to a full day (including the mountain kora). Overnight accommodation is not confirmed at the temple; most visitors return to Xinghai County town or Gonghe for the night.

Who Should Visit Xinghai Saizong Temple?

Ideal for:

• Travelers with a strong interest in Tibetan Buddhism, monastic traditions, and ascetic practices.
• Photographers seeking dramatic mountain-and-monastery compositions without crowds.
• Hikers who can manage a high-altitude kora up to 15 km.
• Those seeking a spiritual, quiet experience far from tourist hubs.

May not suit:

• People with altitude intolerance or untreated medical conditions.
• Travelers on a tight schedule—access can be slow and unpredictable.
• Families with very young children due to the altitude and rough terrain.
• Anyone looking for modern amenities or guided interpretive services in English.

Photography Tips

• The best light for the temple complex and Monkey Cliff is in the late afternoon (around 16:00–17:30), when warm sun illuminates the red walls against the blue sky.
• Use a telephoto lens to compress the "cliff" perspective and capture the meditation huts high on the rock face.
• A polarizing filter helps cut haze and saturate the colors of the grassland and sky.
• Always ask permission before photographing monks or pilgrims; a respectful nod and a smile go a long way.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is the temple free to enter?
Yes, according to the source data, there is no ticket fee for the temple grounds.

Can tourists visit the meditation caves?
No. The caves are private retreats for monks/nuns in spiritual isolation. Visitors may view them from the outside but must respect privacy and silence.

What is the exact altitude of the temple?
The temple sits at around 3,800 meters above sea level; the mountain peak reaches 4,494 meters.

Why is it called the "Second Potala"?
Because of its sacred association with Avalokitesvara (Guanyin), the same deity enshrined at the Potala Palace in Lhasa. The mountain itself is regarded as the deity's divine mandala.

Are there any facilities at the temple?
Basic facilities exist (toilets, small stalls selling incense and butter lamps), but no restaurants or formal accommodation are confirmed. Bring your own food and water.

What is the kora distance?
The full circumambulation around Saizong Mountain is approximately 15 kilometers. It can take three to five hours.

Is a permit needed to visit?
Foreign travelers may need an Alien's Travel Permit to enter Hainan Prefecture (due to its classification as a "non-open area"). Verify with local authorities or your tour operator in advance.

Final Decision Guidance

Xinghai Saizong Temple ranks as one of Amdo's most evocative mountain monasteries, offering a rare combination of sacred landscape, sectarian harmony, and authentic ascetic life. Its "Second Potala" nickname is well earned by the mountain's holy status, not by architectural copying.

The journey requires planning for altitude and remote access, but the reward is a profoundly quiet and visually striking sanctuary far from the crowds of Qinghai Lake or Kumbum Monastery. If you have at least three days in Qinghai and a tolerance for unpaved roads, add Saizong Temple to your itinerary—but only if you are ready for a slower, more contemplative travel experience.