The Hidden Potala of the Grasslands: Xinghai Saizong Temple and the Sacred Monkey Cliff

The Second Potala of Amdo

1.Hidden within the rugged folds of Saizong: Mountain in Xinghai County, Hainan Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture, Qinghai Province, lies a spiritual sanctuary that defies the typical openness of grassland temples: Xinghai Saizong Temple (Saizong Si). Unlike monasteries that sit visibly on the plains, Saizong Temple is tucked away in a mountain col, appearing like a red jewel naturally growing out of the rock and cliffs. Known in Tibetan as "Saizong Jingxiu Yuan" (Saizong Meditation Center), it is revered as one of the "Three Great Sacred Mountains of Amdo" and is often called the "Second Potala" due to its sanctity and the sacred geography of the mountain, which is believed to be the dojo of Avalokitesvara (Guanyin). The mountain itself rises to an altitude of 4,494 meters, while the temple sits at approximately 3,800 meters, creating a breathtaking backdrop of vertical cliffs and spiritual seclusion.

A Harmony of Sects

2.The history of Saizong: Temple is a testament to the harmonious coexistence of different Tibetan Buddhist schools. While the site has ancient roots related to the Nyingma (Red Hat) tradition, its major expansion and current prominence began around 1923 under the patronage of the 9th Panchen Lama, Thubten Choekyi Nyima. During his stay, he designated it as a practice center for the Nyingma school, but over time, under the guidance of subsequent masters like A-lags, it evolved into a rare sanctuary where both the Nyingma and Gelug (Yellow Hat) traditions flourish together. This unique blend of teachings and rituals attracts monks and pilgrims from across the region, making it a vibrant center for religious study and meditation.

The Sacred Monkey and Natural Wonders

3.The geography of Saizong: Mountain is imbued with mythology. The most famous natural feature is the Monkey Cliff (Shen Hou), a rock formation high on the mountain that resembles a monkey gazing into the distance. In local legend, this is believed to be an emanation of a divine general of King Gesar, guarding the sanctity of the site. The landscape around the temple is a dramatic interplay of red clay walls, golden roofs, and the rugged grey stone of the mountain, surrounded by the lush Xinghai grasslands and distant snow-capped peaks. Devout pilgrims undertake a 15-kilometer circumambulation (kora) around the mountain, passing by sacred springs, self-manifested stone images, and meditation caves used by hermits for centuries.

A Sanctuary for Ascetics

Saizong Temple is not just a place of worship but a retreat for serious spiritual practice. The mountainsides are dotted with small, white meditation huts and caves where monks and nuns retreat from the world to focus on their inner cultivation. Some of these caves, like the "A-lags Great Meditation Cave," are simple stone enclosures that have hosted high masters for years of solitary meditation. The presence of these ascetics adds a layer of profound silence and devotion to the atmosphere. Visitors walking through the temple complex will hear the low hum of chanting and the fluttering of prayer flags, feeling a deep connection to the ancient traditions of Tibetan asceticism that are still alive here today.