Yushu City Guide: The Source of Three Rivers and Heart of Khampa Culture
Yushu, a Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture in southern Qinghai, is renowned as the "Source of Three Rivers" (Sanjiangyuan) where the Yangtze, Yellow, and Lancang rivers originate. It is the heart of Khampa culture, famous for the magnificent Jiegudondrub Ling Monastery, the world's largest Gyanak Mani stone pile, and the vibrant Yushu Horse Racing Festival.
About Yushu - City Guide & Travel Information
1.Introduction: The Soul of the Snowy Plateau Yushu (玉树), located in the hinterland of the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau, is a place of profound spiritual resonance and breathtaking natural beauty. Its name, meaning "Site" or "Ruins" in Tibetan, belies its status as a vibrant center of Khampa Tibetan culture. Geographically, it sits in the southern part of Qinghai Province, bordering the Bayan Har Mountains to the north and the Tanggula Mountains to the south. It shares borders with the Haixi Mongol and Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture to the north, the Golog Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture to the east, and the Xizang (Tibet) Autonomous Region to the west and south. Yushu is celebrated by four prestigious titles: "The Source of Rivers" (江河之源), "The Ancestral Home of Famous Mountains" (名山之宗), "The Land of Yaks" (牦牛之地), and "The Hometown of Song and Dance" (歌舞之乡). It is here that the pulse of the earth beats strongest, feeding the lifelines of China and Southeast Asia. The Yangtze River (Drichu), Yellow River (Machu), and Lancang River (Zaqu/Mekong) all take their first breaths in this region, making it the renowned "Sanjiangyuan" (Three Rivers Source) nature reserve.
2.Jiegu Town: The Heart of Yushu The prefecture's seat of government is Jiegu Town (Jiegu Zhen), a historic trading hub on the Tang-Tubo Ancient Road. It serves as the political, economic, and cultural center of the region. The town is nestled in a valley, surrounded by mountains, and is characterized by a blend of traditional Tibetan architecture and modern development. Walking through Jiegu, one can feel the deep historical accumulation of the region. It is a place where ancient trade routes converged, bringing together tea, horses, and culture. Dominating the town from a hillside is the Jiegu Monastery (Jiegu Donzhulin), a prominent Sakya sect monastery. Its name means "Land of Success through Meditation" (Jiegu Yichengzhou). The monastery is an architectural marvel, built against the mountain contours, with monastic cells and halls scattered in a picturesque disarray that resembles a multi-layered pavilion from afar. The main assembly hall is particularly majestic, capable of holding 1,000 monks for chanting. It houses precious relics, including a golden statue of Sakyamuni bestowed by the Ming Dynasty court, testifying to the monastery's historical significance and political connections.
3.Spiritual Landmarks: Stones and Princesses Yushu is a land where faith is etched into the very stones. The Gyanak Mani Stone Pile (Jiana Mani Cheng) in Xinzhai Village is a testament to this devotion. It is the largest Mani stone pile in the world. Over centuries, billions of stones carved with the six-syllable mantra "Om Mani Padme Hum" and various Buddha images have been piled here by pilgrims. It creates a "City of Mani Stones," a labyrinth of spiritual devotion. To the east of the pile stand eight white stupas and a massive prayer wheel. The local stone carvers, living at the foot of this city of stones, continue the tradition, carving prayers with hammers and chisels, their rhythmic tapping blending with the chants of pilgrims circumambulating the pile.
Another site of immense historical importance is the Wencheng Princess Temple (Wencheng Gongzhu Miao), located in the Baiyu Valley. Built in 641 AD during the Tang Dynasty, it commemorates Princess Wencheng's journey to Tibet to marry the Tibetan King Songtsen Gampo. It is said that the princess stayed here for a month, and the local people, moved by her presence and the skills she brought, carved nine statues of Vairocana Buddha on the cliff face to honor her. The temple built around these carvings is the earliest and most magnificent historical relic left by the princess in Qinghai, standing as a symbol of unity between the Han and Tibetan peoples. Nearby Leba Gou (Leba Valley) is known as a "river of flowing words." Here, the water itself seems sacred, as Mani stones carved with scriptures are placed in the river, creating a unique landscape where culture and nature flow together.
4.The Hometown of Song and Dance: Yushu is legendary for its performing arts. The Yushu Horse Racing Festival, held annually starting on July 25th, is the grandest event in the region. During this time, the grassland becomes a city of tents. Tibetan people from all over the prefecture, dressed in their finest traditional Khampa clothing—adorned with jewelry, fur, and vibrant fabrics—gather for a week of celebration. The festival features thrilling horse races, yak races, and magnificent Tibetan folk dances. It is a visual feast of color and movement, showcasing the boldness and hospitality of the Khampa people. The "Guozhuang" dance, where men and women dance in circles, is a staple of these festivities, reflecting the community's joy and cohesion.
5.Geography and Climate: The High Plateau Yushu is a true highland, with an average elevation over 4,000 meters. The climate is a typical plateau continental climate: cold, with a long winter and no absolute summer. The air is thin, and the sunlight is intense. However, the summer months (July and August) are the golden season, with lush green grasslands, blooming wildflowers, and pleasant temperatures, making it the ideal time for tourism. The region is rich in biodiversity, home to rare species like the black-necked crane, wild yaks, and snow leopards.
Conclusion Yushu is not just a destination; it is a pilgrimage to the origins of China's great rivers and a deep dive into the heart of Tibetan civilization. Whether you are circumambulating the Gyanak Mani, watching the galloping horses on the grassland, or gazing at the source of the Yangtze, Yushu offers a travel experience that is raw, spiritual, and unforgettable.
Local Cuisine in Yushu - Food & Dining Guide
Yushu's cuisine is robust and high-energy, designed to sustain life on the high plateau. It is dominated by yak meat, dairy products, and barley, but also features unique local delicacies.
1.Roasted Meat (Ribalu/Leiba): This is a signature dish in Yushu, often referred to locally as "Kebab" or "Ribalu". The preparation involves boiling sheep chops until they are half-cooked, then brushing them with a special sauce and roasting them over charcoal. This method ensures the meat is tender on the inside while having a savory, crispy exterior. It is a flavorful feast that perfectly complements the local drinking culture.
2.Luyan Kala Yogurt: Yushu is famous for its dairy, and the yogurt here is exceptional. "Luyan Kala" is a recommended brand/shop in Jiegu Town. The yogurt is sold by weight (e.g., 4 yuan per jin). It is known for being incredibly thick, rich, and having a pure, tart flavor that is far superior to commercial yogurts found in cities. It is often eaten with a spoonful of sugar to balance the tartness.
3.Air-dried Yak Meat (Fenggan Rou): In the freezing winter months, locals cut fresh yak meat into strips and hang them in shaded, ventilated areas to dry naturally. By the following spring, the meat becomes "Fenggan Rou". It is often eaten raw or slightly roasted. It has a chewy texture and a concentrated meaty flavor, serving as a perfect high-protein snack for long journeys.
4.Butter Tea and Zanba: These are the daily staples. Butter Tea is made by churning tea leaves, yak butter, and salt. It is a savory, high-calorie drink essential for hydration and warmth. Zanba is roasted highland barley flour, which is mixed with butter tea in a bowl and kneaded into dough balls by hand. It is a nutritious and portable food.
5.Mianpian (Dough Sheet Soup): A common comfort food in the region, consisting of small square dough sheets boiled in a savory broth with yak meat and vegetables. It is a warming meal, especially popular for dinner.
Accommodation Tips in Yushu - Hotels & Lodging Guide
Accommodation in Yushu is primarily centered in Jiegu Town (Yushu City), the administrative seat. While the earthquake in 2010 devastated the area, the reconstruction has led to new and improved infrastructure.
Jiegu Town (City Center):
- 1.Convenience: Staying in Jiegu Town is the most practical option. It is the transport hub where you can find buses, hire cars, and access markets.
- 2.Hotel Types: There is a range of options from standard hotels to guesthouses.
◦ Yushu State Guest House (Yushu Binguan): A more established option, often used for official receptions, offering reliable amenities.
◦ Jiegu Yizhan (Jiegu Station): Located on Hongwei Road in Jiegu Town, this is a recommended spot for a more homely atmosphere. It offers family-style dining where you can try local dishes like yogurt and air-dried meat. It provides a good balance of local culture and comfort.
- 3.Facilities: Most hotels in the town now offer standard amenities like hot water and electricity, though power outages can occasionally happen in peak consumption times. Wi-Fi is generally available in hotels.
Camping:
- 4.Festivals: If you are visiting during the Horse Racing Festival (late July), accommodation in town can be very tight and expensive. Many visitors and locals choose to camp in tents on the grasslands near the festival grounds. This offers a truly immersive experience but requires bringing your own high-quality cold-weather camping gear.
General Advice:
- 5.Altitude: Since Yushu is at a high altitude (~3700m), choose a hotel that might offer oxygen supplies or simply ensure you rest well your first night. Avoid heavy exercise upon arrival.
- 6.Booking: During July and August (peak season), it is highly advisable to book rooms in advance as the influx of tourists for the festival fills up the town quickly.