Xiushan: A Literary Journey to the Edge of Chongqing

1.Xiushan Tujia and Miao Autonomous: County, often referred to simply as Xiushan, is a hidden cultural gem tucked away in the southeastern corner of Chongqing Municipality. Geographically, it occupies a unique strategic position in the Wuling Mountain hinterland, serving as a cultural and commercial bridge between the municipalities and provinces of Chongqing, Hunan, and Guizhou. Unlike the towering skyscrapers and cyberpunk aesthetic of downtown Chongqing, Xiushan offers a tranquil, pastoral escape defined by rolling green hills, meandering clear rivers, and a pace of life that seems to follow the gentle rhythm of the traditional ferry boats.

2.The Literary Dream: Hong'an Border Town The absolute highlight of Xiushan tourism is Hong'an Ancient Town (Hong'an Bian Cheng). This town is widely believed to be the prototype for the setting of the famous Chinese novella Border Town (Bian Cheng) by Shen Congwen. The book depicts a pure and melancholic love story set in a tranquil border town, and Hong'an captures this atmosphere perfectly.

Hong'an is situated on the bank of the Qingshui River, which serves as the natural boundary between Chongqing and Hunan. Walking through the town feels like stepping into the pages of the book. The architecture is a well-preserved collection of traditional wooden stilt houses (Diaojiaolou) that hang over the riverbanks, their dark wood contrasting beautifully with the emerald waters. The most iconic experience here is taking the "La-la Du" (Cable Ferry). Just as described in the novel, passengers cross the river on a flat-bottomed boat pulled along a steel cable stretched across the water. This simple, ancient mode of transport is not just a way to get from Chongqing to Hunan (Chatian Town on the other side); it is a nostalgic journey back to a simpler time.

3.In the middle of the river lies Chacha: Island (Cuicui Island), named after the novel's protagonist. The island features a white pagoda and a statue of Cuicui gazing longingly at the river, symbolizing the eternal wait for love. The scenery here is poetic: willow trees dipping into the water, fishermen casting nets in the morning mist, and the gentle sound of the river creating a serene soundtrack. It is a place for introspection, photography, and literary pilgrimage.

4.The Capital of Flower Lanterns: Xiushan is famously known as the "Hometown of Flower Lanterns" in China. The Xiushan Flower Lantern (Xiushan Huadeng) is a national intangible cultural heritage. It is a unique folk art form that combines singing, dancing, and theatrical performance, traditionally performed during the Spring Festival. The music is lively, the lyrics are humorous and grounded in local life, and the movements are distinct and energetic.

Visitors can often see performances in the town squares or during festivals, where performers dressed in bright, colorful costumes dance with fans and handkerchiefs. This tradition reflects the optimism and artistic spirit of the Tujia and Miao people who call this land home. The local culture is a vibrant tapestry woven from the traditions of these ethnic groups, evident in their festivals, clothing, and daily customs.

5.Natural Splendor and Ancient Paths: Beyond the border town, Xiushan boasts impressive natural landscapes. The Chuanhegai Scenic Area is a massive alpine meadow often referred to as a "table mountain" hanging in the clouds. It is famous for its "45-turn highway," a winding road that snakes up the mountain, offering thrilling drives and spectacular views for photographers. In spring, the plateau is covered in a sea of azaleas; in summer, it becomes a cool retreat perfect for camping under the stars; in autumn, silvergrass waves in the wind; and in winter, it transforms into a snowy wonderland.

6.The county is also home to the: Xijie (West Street) area in the county seat, which has been revitalized to showcase traditional architecture and commerce, and the Phoenix Mountain, where lush forests and ancient temples provide a quiet hiking experience.

A Melting Pot of Borders What makes Xiushan truly unique is its "border" identity. You can eat breakfast in Chongqing, grab lunch in Hunan, and have dinner in Guizhou, all within a short distance. This convergence has created a unique fusion of dialects, culinary habits, and market trade. The "border markets" are lively events where villagers from all three provinces gather to trade goods, creating a bustling, colorful atmosphere that has remained largely unchanged for decades.

In summary, Xiushan is not just a destination; it is a feeling. It is the nostalgia of a literary classic, the vibrancy of ethnic dance, and the serenity of a boat ride across a clear river. It invites travelers to slow down, read a book by the water, and immerse themselves in the timeless charm of the borderland.