Fengdu Travel Guide: The Legendary Ghost City on the Yangtze
Fengdu, known as the "Ghost City," is a legendary site on the Yangtze River where Chinese mythology comes to life. Famous for the temples of Ming Mountain representing the underworld, the pristine Snow Jade Cave, and the alpine beauty of Nantian Lake, it offers a mystical cultural journey.
About Fengdu - City Guide & Travel Information
1.Introduction: The Legendary Ghost City on the Yangtze Fengdu County, located in the heart of the Three Gorges Reservoir area of Chongqing Municipality, is a destination shrouded in mystery and legend. Sitting on the north bank of the Yangtze River, about 170 kilometers downstream from central Chongqing, Fengdu is globally renowned as the "Ghost City" of China. For roughly two thousand years, this place has been culturally associated with the afterlife, the underworld, and the judgment of souls in Chinese Taoist and Buddhist traditions. Unlike the bustling urban landscape of downtown Chongqing, Fengdu offers a unique blend of ethereal folklore, historic architecture, and stunning natural karst scenery.
The origins of the "Ghost City" legend are fascinating. It is said that during the Han Dynasty, two officials named Yin Changsheng and Wang Fangping came to Ming Mountain in Fengdu to practice Taoism. They both eventually achieved immortality. Later, people combined their surnames, "Yin" and "Wang," which sounds like "Yinwang," meaning the "King of Hell" or "King of the Underworld." Over centuries, this linguistic coincidence, combined with local folk beliefs, evolved into a complex mythology where Fengdu was viewed as the resting place of souls and the domain of the King of Hell. Today, Fengdu serves as a fascinating cultural museum, preserving the concepts of good, evil, and karma that have permeated Chinese society for millennia.
2.Ming Mountain: A Journey Through the Underworld The core of Fengdu's tourism is Ming Mountain (Mingshan), where the famous Ghost City temples are located. Walking through this scenic area is like stepping into a physical manifestation of Chinese mythology. The architecture here is modeled after the social structure of the human world but dedicated to the spirits.
- 3.The Bridge of Helplessness (Naihe Qiao): This is usually the first test for visitors. Legend says that this stone bridge connects the world of the living to the underworld. It is believed that the virtuous can cross safely, while the wicked will fall into the water below. It is a custom for visitors to cross the bridge in specific numbers of steps to ensure good fortune and longevity.
- 4.Ghost Gate Pass (Guimen Guan): This imposing gate represents the checkpoint for all souls entering the netherworld. The statues of ferocious demons guarding the gate create an atmosphere of solemnity and awe, reminding visitors of the ancient belief in judgment.
- 5.Yellow Road (Huangquan Lu): The path that souls must travel. It is said that on this road, one cannot look back, symbolizing the finality of death and the separation from the mortal world.
- 6.Tianzi Palace: The most magnificent building on the mountain, serving as the "office" of the King of Hell. It dates back hundreds of years and features intricate wood carvings and stone sculptures. The "Judge of the Underworld" statue sits here, a figure of absolute justice who judges the deeds of every soul.
7.The experience of visiting Ming: Mountain is not meant to be terrifying, but rather educational and moralizing. The vivid statues and tableaus depicting punishments for various sins (like lying, disrespecting parents, or corruption) serve as a admonition to the living to lead a virtuous life. It is a unique cultural heritage site that blends the spooky with the spiritual.
8.Snow Jade Cave: The Whitest Cave in China Across the river from the Ghost City lies a natural wonder that contrasts sharply with the dark themes of Ming Mountain—the Snow Jade Cave (Xueyu Cave). Located in Longhe Canyon, this karst cave is renowned as one of the most beautiful and youngest caves in China. Unlike many other caves that are old and weathered, the stalactites in Snow Jade Cave are actively growing and are exceptionally pure and white, resembling ice and snow. The calcium carbonate deposits here are free from impurities, giving the formations a jade-like translucency.
- 9.The King of Corals: This is the largest "stone coral" formation found in any cave in China, looking like a massive, white coral reef suspended in the air.
- 10.The Penguin's March: A section of the cave where the stalagmites look uncannily like a group of emperor penguins trekking across the snow. The air inside is cool and crisp, and the sight of the glittering, snow-white formations offers a refreshing natural counterpoint to the cultural heaviness of the Ghost City.
11.Nantian Lake: An Alpine Resort Moving away from the river valley and up into the mountains, Fengdu reveals its ecological side at Nantian Lake. Situated at an altitude of nearly 2000 meters, this area is a summer resort paradise. It features a vast alpine lake surrounded by primitive forests and meadows. In summer, when the "furnace" city of Chongqing is sweltering, Nantian Lake remains cool, making it a popular spot for camping and hiking. In winter, the area transforms into a ski resort, offering snow sports to the people of the southwest. The tranquil blue waters reflect the surrounding peaks, creating a landscape that feels more like the Alps than the typical humid Sichuan Basin.
12.Shuanggui Mountain: A Literary Retreat Opposite Ming Mountain lies Shuanggui Mountain (Double Cassia Mountain), a National Forest Park facing the Yangtze River. It is a place of peace and literature. Historically, famous poets and literati such as Su Shi (Su Dongpo) of the Song Dynasty visited here, leaving behind poems and calligraphy. The mountain is lush with trees and features pavilions where one can sit and watch the cruise ships pass by on the Yangtze. It represents the scholarly and contemplative side of Fengdu's history.
13.Modern Fengdu: A City Reborn It is important to note that the Fengdu County seat seen today is largely a new city. Due to the Three Gorges Dam project, the original old town of Fengdu was submerged underwater. The new city was built on the southern bank of the river, opposite the Ghost City. This relocation has given Fengdu a modern, planned urban layout with wide streets and new infrastructure. However, the spirit of the old city lives on in the preserved sites on the higher grounds of Ming Mountain, which became a peninsula/island after the water level rose. The Fengdu Temple Fair, held annually around the third day of the third lunar month, is a National Intangible Cultural Heritage event. During this time, the city comes alive with parades featuring the "Son of Heaven" (King of Hell) marrying a mortal woman, stilt walkers, and folk performances. It is a carnival that turns the "Ghost City" into a city of joy and celebration.
In summary, Fengdu is a city of duality. It balances the "Ghost City" of the dead with a vibrant new city of the living; it holds the dark, mysterious Ming Mountain alongside the pure, white Snow Jade Cave. It is a place where legends of the afterlife are told against the backdrop of the majestic, life-giving Yangtze River. Whether you are interested in exploring the depths of Chinese folklore, marveling at geological rarities, or simply enjoying the cool mountain air, Fengdu offers a profound and memorable journey.
Local Cuisine in Fengdu - Food & Dining Guide
Fengdu's cuisine is deeply rooted in the spicy and numbing flavors of the Chongqing region (Yu Cai), but it has distinct local specialties that are a must-try.
1.Fengdu Spicy Chicken: Lumps (Fengdu Ma La Ji Kuai) While spicy chicken is common in Chongqing, Fengdu has its own famous variation. The chicken is boiled until just cooked, chopped into small cubes, and then vigorously tossed in a rich condiment mixture of red chili oil, Sichuan peppercorns, sesame, sugar, and local spices. It is often sold as a cold appetizer. The texture is firm and the flavor is an explosion of "Ma La" (numbing and spicy) with a sweet aftertaste. It is so popular that it is often vacuum-packed as a souvenir.
Huma Roll (Sesame Sugar Roll) This is a traditional snack often found in the markets. It involves a soft, glutinous dough wrapper filled with a mixture of crushed sesame seeds and sugar, rolled up and steamed or served fresh. It provides a sweet respite from the heavy spice of the main courses.
2.Chongqing Hotpot As a county of: Chongqing, Fengdu offers authentic hotpot. The base is rich with beef tallow and red chilies. Locals dip tripe, duck intestines, and local river fish into the bubbling broth. The experience of eating hotpot by the Yangtze River, watching the ships go by, is quintessential Fengdu.
3.Longhe Tea: Fengdu produces high-quality green tea in its high-altitude areas like Nantian Lake. The tea is clear, fragrant, and slightly sweet, serving as a perfect palate cleanser after a spicy meal.
4.Beef Cuisine: Due to the abundance of cattle farming in the surrounding mountains, beef dishes are prominent. From spicy beef jerky to braised beef noodles, the meat is known for being tender and flavorful.
Accommodation Tips in Fengdu - Hotels & Lodging Guide
1.Accommodation in: Fengdu is convenient, catering to both river cruise tourists and land-based travelers.
New County Seat (South Bank)
- 2.Overview: This is the main urban area where most locals live. It offers the most modern amenities.
- 3.Recommendation: Look for hotels near the Binjiang Road (Riverside Road). Hotels here often offer "River View" rooms where you can see the Yangtze River and the lit-up Ghost City across the water at night.
- 4.Options: There are standard business hotels and 4-star establishments like the Fengdu Hongfan Hotel or similar.
- 5.Convenience: Close to restaurants, supermarkets, and the bus station.
Near Ming Mountain (North Bank)
- 6.Overview: Located closer to the Ghost City scenic area.
- 7.Vibe: This area is quieter at night compared to the new city but offers easy access to the temples early in the morning.
- 8.Note: Facilities might be slightly older compared to the brand-new hotels in the south bank city center.
Nantian Lake Area
- 9.Best for: Summer vacationers and nature lovers.
- 10.Style: Resort hotels, wooden cabins, and camping sites.
- 11.Tip: It is significantly cooler here than in the city. If you are visiting in summer to escape the heat, this is the best place to stay. In winter, book early if you plan to ski.
General Advice:
- 12.Book Ahead: During the Fengdu Temple Fair (usually April) or Chinese New Year, the city gets incredibly crowded with pilgrims and tourists. Hotels are fully booked weeks in advance.
- 13.Noise: Riverside hotels are beautiful but can sometimes hear the ship horns; ensure your room has good soundproofing if you are a light sleeper.
Other Cities in Chongqing
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