Fuling Travel Guide: The Underwater Museum and the Hometown of Pickles

1.Introduction: The Pearl of the Wu River Estuary Fuling District, located in the central part of Chongqing Municipality, is a city steeped in history and defined by the magnificent convergence of two great rivers: the Yangtze River and the Wu River. Geographically, it serves as a critical strategic point in the Three Gorges Reservoir area. Unlike the flat plains of other regions, Fuling is a quintessential "Mountain City," where urban life clings to the steep hillsides overlooking the winding rivers. The terrain is characterized by the rugged landscapes typical of the Sichuan Basin's edge, creating a dramatic backdrop of green mountains and emerald waters.

Historically, Fuling has been a pivotal hub for commerce and military defense for over two millennia. It was known as "Zhi" in ancient times. As early as the Warring States period, during the Qin State's unification wars against the Chu State, Fuling served as a vital supply base for the army, supporting the troops with provisions as they advanced down the Yangtze. This deep historical footprint is felt throughout the city, which has evolved from an ancient military fortress into a modern industrial and tourism center. Today, Fuling is globally renowned not just for its strategic importance, but for two cultural icons: the underwater marvel of Baiheliang and the culinary staple, Fuling Zhacai (mustard tuber).

2.Baiheliang: The World's First Ancient Hydrological Station The crown jewel of Fuling's cultural heritage is undoubtedly the Baiheliang (White Crane Ridge). Located in the middle of the Yangtze River within the Fuling District, this natural stone ridge measures approximately 1,600 meters in length and averages about 15 meters in width,. For centuries, it lay submerged under the roaring Yangtze, revealing itself only during the dry season in winter and spring. Legend has it that an immortal once practiced Taoism here and flew away on a white crane, giving the ridge its poetic name.

However, Baiheliang is far more than a mythical site; it is a scientific wonder. Since the Tang Dynasty (specifically the Guangde era, circa 763 AD), ancient Chinese people began carving fish figures on this stone ridge to record the low-water levels of the Yangtze River. Over a span of more than 1,200 years, the ridge accumulated 18 stone fish carvings and numerous inscriptions recording water levels, observing the hydrological cycle of the Yangtze. The locals had a saying, "When the stone fish come out of the water, it foretells a bumper harvest," reflecting the correlation between the river's water cycle and agricultural success.

3.This site is recognized by: UNESCO and the global scientific community as the "World's First Ancient Hydrological Station". It preserves a continuous record of the Yangtze's hydrological changes, providing invaluable data for modern water conservancy, shipping, and bridge construction, a feat that is unmatched anywhere else in the world. Following the construction of the Three Gorges Dam, the rising water levels would have permanently submerged this treasure. To preserve it, China built the Baiheliang Underwater Museum, a technological marvel that allows visitors to descend 40 meters underwater via an escalator and view the ancient inscriptions through glass windows, protected within a pressure-free container. This museum is a unique fusion of history, science, and modern engineering, offering a silent dialogue with the ancients beneath the Yangtze's waves.

4.The Cultural Tapestry: Calligraphy and Poetry Beyond its scientific value, Baiheliang is also an "Underwater Forest of Steles." The ridge features over 160 inscriptions comprising more than 30,000 characters left by literati, officials, and poets from the Tang, Song, Ming, and Qing dynasties. These inscriptions cover a wide range of styles and sentiments, showcasing the profound depth of Chinese calligraphy and literature. It serves as a rare underwater art gallery where history, art, and nature converge. The engravings include poems celebrating the river's beauty and prayers for harvest, offering a glimpse into the spiritual life of the people who have lived along these banks for generations.

5.Fuling Zhacai: A Taste of One Hundred Years While Baiheliang feeds the mind, Fuling Zhacai (Pickled Mustard Tuber) feeds the soul. Fuling is the birthplace of this world-famous pickle, which stands alongside European pickled cucumbers and German sweet and sour red cabbage as one of the world's three most famous pickled vegetables,. The history of Fuling Zhacai dates back over a century to the Qing Dynasty (1898). It utilizes a specific variety of mustard greens known as "Qingcaitou" (Green Vegetable Head), which grows uniquely well in the climate and soil of Fuling. The traditional craftsmanship involved in making Zhacai is meticulous: the vegetable heads are harvested, wind-dried to remove moisture, and then salted and pressed. This process gives the pickle its distinctive crisp, tender texture and its bright, savory, and umami-rich flavor. Walking through Fuling, you can feel the influence of this industry. It is not just a food product; it is a cultural symbol of the region, representing the ingenuity of the local people in preserving food in the humid climate of the Sichuan Basin. The "Fuling Zhacai Traditional Production Technique" has been listed as a national intangible cultural heritage, emphasizing its importance to Chinese culinary history.

6.The Landscape: A City of Mountains and Rivers Fuling's landscape is a testament to the "Mountain City" archetype of Chongqing. The city is built on hills, with roads winding upwards and buildings layered upon the slopes. This creates a mesmerizing 3D urban effect, where the roof of one building might be level with the ground floor of another. The confluence of the Wu River into the Yangtze creates a distinct two-color river scenery, with the clear green waters of the Wu River meeting the sediment-rich brownish-yellow waters of the Yangtze (especially visible in certain seasons). The surrounding countryside offers lush greenery and steep gorges. To the south lies the Wuling Mountain range, offering cool retreats and scenic hiking opportunities. The region's climate is humid subtropical, often shrouded in mist, which adds a layer of mystery to the landscape, similar to the "Fog City" reputation of downtown Chongqing,.

7.Modern Development and Spirit: Today, Fuling is a bustling hub of industry and tourism. It retains the hardworking, straightforward spirit of the "Ba" people—passionate, resilient, and hospitable. Whether it is the laborers who once pulled boats upstream or the modern workers in the salt and chemical industries, the people of Fuling share a connection to the river that defines their existence. The city is modernizing rapidly, yet it carefully guards its ancient heritage beneath the water and its culinary traditions on the table. A visit to Fuling is a journey through time, from the ancient battlefields of the Qin dynasty to the underwater time capsule of Baiheliang, all flavored with the spicy and savory notes of its famous cuisine.