Hong'an Biancheng Ancient Town Guide | Border Town of Three Provinces

Hong'an Biancheng Ancient Town (洪安边城古镇), located in the southeastern corner of Xiushan Tujia and Miao Autonomous County, Chongqing, is a rare settlement where literature, history, and geography converge. Known as the real-life prototype for the setting of Shen Congwen's canonical 1934 novel Border Town (《边城》), the town sits at the junction of three provinces—Chongqing, Hunan, and Guizhou—spanned by the Qingshui River.

With its preserved Qing-dynasty streets, operating cable ferry, and layered heritage as a commercial hub and Red Army command post, Hong'an offers travelers a compact but multifaceted experience. This guide covers what to see, who should visit, and how to plan a trip, based on publicly available sources.

Location and Geography

One Foot Steps into Three Provinces

Hong'an occupies a position so precise that a single point on Sanbuguan Island (三不管岛, "Three-No's Island") places you within walking distance of three provincial borders. To the east is Chatian Town in Huayuan County, Hunan; to the south lies Songtao Miao Autonomous County, Guizhou. The Qingshui River forms the natural boundary, and the Hong'an River joins it from the north.

This three-province junction has historically been a frontier zone—both a trading crossroads and a buffer where laws from any single province were difficult to enforce. Today the island is a park with a stone marker commemorating the tripoint.

Altitude and Climate

The town sits at an elevation of about 340 meters (1,115 feet), well below the threshold for altitude concerns. The climate is subtropical humid, with hot, humid summers and mild winters. Spring (March–May) and autumn (September–November) offer the most comfortable temperatures for walking the stone streets. Summer temperatures often exceed 35°C (95°F), while winter lows rarely drop below freezing but can feel damp along the river.

Getting There

Hong'an is roughly 40 km southeast of Xiushan County seat. Most travelers reach Xiushan by long-distance bus or train from Chongqing's main railway station (about 6–7 hours by bus, or 4–5 hours by train). From Xiushan, local buses run to the town of Hong'an; the journey takes about 1 hour.

Drivers can follow G65 (Baomao Expressway) to the Xiushan exit, then take S204 toward Hong'an. Alternatively, cross the Hong-Cha Bridge from Chatian Town in Hunan directly into the town core. Public transport schedules are not verified in this source; confirm departure times with the Xiushan bus station upon arrival.

Literary Significance: The Real Border Town

Connection to Shen Congwen's Novel

Shen Congwen's Border Town is one of the most celebrated works of 20th-century Chinese literature, telling the story of Cuicui, a ferry girl, and her grandfather on the Chadong River. While the fictional town is often associated with Chadong in Hunan, Hong'an—just across the river—is recognized by many scholars and local authorities as the actual setting.

The novel's central prop, the "Lala Ferry" (a cable-pulled boat), still operates on the Qingshui River at Hong'an, allowing visitors to cross exactly as Cuicui's grandfather did. The sense of romantic simplicity and borderland tension in the book is palpable here.

The Lala Ferry Experience

The Lala Ferry (拉拉渡) is a traditional cable ferry: a flat-bottomed wooden boat guided by a steel cable stretched across the river. A ferryman pulls the boat hand-over-hand toward the opposite bank. The crossing takes about 3–5 minutes.

No ticket is required for the ferry itself (the town is free), but a small voluntary contribution may be accepted. The ferry runs daily during daylight hours, though exact start and end times are not standardized. For the full literary experience, go early in the morning to see the river mist and hear only the sound of the cable and oars.

Historical Importance

Commercial Hub on the Tea Horse Road

During the Qing Dynasty, Hong'an functioned as a major transshipment point for goods moving between Sichuan (now Chongqing), Hunan, and Guizhou. Salt from Sichuan, tung oil from Hunan, and linen from Guizhou passed through its docks.

The You River and Yuan River waterway system connected the town to wider markets. The stone-paved Old Street, still lined with wooden storefronts and fire-sealing walls, retains the scale and feel of a prosperous trading post.

Red Army Command Site

In 1949, the Second Field Army of the Chinese Workers' and Peasants' Red Army, under Liu Bocheng and Deng Xiaoping, established a command post in Hong'an before advancing into southwestern China. The building—a two-story wooden structure on the old street—is preserved as a museum. Exhibits include photographs, documents, and period furniture.

The site is open to the public, but operating hours were not available in the source data; visitors should expect daytime access and possibly a midday closure. The surrounding area also contains other revolutionary markers, including the first entry point of the Red Army into Sichuan (Chongqing).

Architecture and the Old Street

Diaojiaolou and Stone Streets

The core area of about 1.5 square kilometers is dominated by Diaojiaolou (stilt houses) that overhang the riverbanks. These wooden structures, typical of Tujia and Miao architecture, are raised on stilts to cope with seasonal flooding. The main street is paved with irregular stone slabs worn smooth by centuries of foot traffic.

Fire-sealing walls, originally built to stop the spread of fires in dense old towns, break the roofline every few blocks. The architectural mix reflects the Tujia, Miao, and Han influences that converged here.

Sanbuguan Island

The "Three-No's Island" is a small island in the Qingshui River that historically belonged to no province—a true no-man's-land. Today it is connected by a footbridge and planted as a small park. The name refers to the fact that in the past, local officials from all three provinces would refuse to handle incidents that occurred there. Visitors can walk around the island in 10 minutes and photograph the three-province marker.

Cultural Experiences

Three-Province Dragon Boat Race

The Qingshui River hosts an annual Dragon Boat Festival race involving teams from Chongqing, Hunan, and Guizhou. The event is popularly called "three provinces overturning the river" (三省翻天) because of the splash and competition. Spectators line the riverbanks and bridges. The date follows the lunar calendar (usually June). Beyond racing, the festival includes folk singing, Miao embroidery displays, and food stalls.

Local Food: One Pot of Three Provinces

The border culture extends to cuisine. The signature dish is "One Pot of Three Provinces" (三省一锅), a spicy stew combining ingredients and cooking styles from the three regions—typically fish or pork, tofu, chilies, and pickled vegetables. Other local specialties include Pickled Fish (酸鱼) and Rice Tofu (米豆腐).

Street-side vendors and small restaurants on the old street serve these dishes. Prices are moderate; a meal for one person costs around 30–50 RMB.

Practical Travel Guide

When to Visit

Spring and autumn are the best seasons: temperatures are mild, and the river scenery is at its most attractive. Summer can be uncomfortably hot and humid, and the town sees more domestic tourists during July and August. Winter is chilly but quiet—a good option for those seeking solitude and misty river views. The Dragon Boat Festival (lunar May 5th, usually June) is a peak period with festivities but also crowds.

Who Should Go

This destination appeals to:

• Literature enthusiasts wanting to walk through the world of Border Town.
• History buffs interested in Red Army history and Qing-dynasty trade networks.
• Photographers: the stilt houses, ferry, and mountain backdrop offer strong composition.
• Travelers who enjoy off-the-beaten-path small towns with authentic character.

Who Might Skip

Hong'an is not for those expecting polished tourist infrastructure, nightlife, or resort amenities. The town is small—most of the old street can be walked in 30 minutes—and there are limited dining and lodging options. Travelers who require English signs or tours may find navigation challenging. The nearby Chadong in Hunan is more developed in terms of tourism services; Hong'an is quieter but more rustic.

Duration

No official suggested duration exists. Based on the size of the attractions:

• Half-day: cover the old street, ferry crossing, Red Army site, and Sanbuguan Island (3–4 hours).
• Full day: add a slow lunch, time for photography, and a walk along the riverbank to Chatian town in Hunan (5–7 hours).
• Overnight: one night to experience the quieter evening atmosphere and sunrise over the river (if you find suitable accommodation).

Safety Notes

• The Lala Ferry is manually operated; follow the ferryman's instructions. No life vests are typically offered.
• Stone streets can be slippery when wet; wear non-slip shoes.
• Summer heat and mosquitoes require sunscreen and repellent.
• No altitude issues at 340m.

Photography Tips

• Best light: Early morning (6:30–8:00) for river mist and soft light on the stilt houses; late afternoon (16:00–17:30) for warm tones on the stone street.
• Ferry shots: Shoot from the bank with the cable as a leading line. A telephoto lens can capture the ferryman's hand-over-hand motion.
• Architecture: Look for fire-sealing walls at the ends of rows; contrasting dark wood against white walls works well.
• Three-province marker: Include elements of each province's side if possible (bridge to Hunan, hills of Guizhou in background).
• Dragon boat event: Use a fast shutter speed (1/500s or faster) to freeze splashes; arrive early for a spot on the Hong-Cha Bridge.

Frequently Asked Questions

Where is Hong'an Biancheng Ancient Town located?
It is in the southeast of Xiushan Tujia and Miao Autonomous County, Chongqing, at the junction of Chongqing, Hunan, and Guizhou provinces.

What is the connection to the book Border Town?
The town is considered the real-life prototype for the setting of Shen Congwen's novel. The operating Lala Ferry and the river scenery directly evoke the story of Cuicui, the ferry girl.

How do I get to the other provinces from here?
Cross the Hong-Cha Bridge to reach Chatian Town in Hunan, or take a small boat. Guizhou is directly south; a short walk or drive brings you to the border.

What is the "Three-No's Island"?
Sanbuguan Island is a small island in the river that historically belonged to none of the three provinces. Now it is a scenic park with a marker where you can stand near all three borders.

What local food should I try?
Order "One Pot of Three Provinces" (spicy stew), Pickled Fish, and Rice Tofu—all specialties of this border area.

Is the Lala Ferry free?
The ferry crossing itself is free (town entrance is free). A small donation is sometimes accepted.

Can I visit the Red Army site?
Yes, the Second Field Army Command Post is open to the public. Specific hours are not confirmed, but daytime access is typical.

What is the best way to get from Chongqing to Hong'an?
Take a long-distance bus or train to Xiushan (4–7 hours), then a local bus to Hong'an (about 1 hour). Driving takes about 6 hours via G65 expressway.

Verification note: Ticket prices, ferry hours, and exact opening times for the Red Army site were not available in the source data and may change. Confirm with local tourist information upon arrival.