
Bazhong Travel Guide: The Capital of Red Leaves and Ancient Grottoes
Nestled in the Qinba Mountains of northeastern Sichuan, Bazhong is celebrated as the "Capital of Red Army Culture." It boasts the breathtaking Guangwushan, famous for Asia's longest red leaf gallery, and the exquisite Nankan Grottoes, offering a perfect fusion of revolutionary history, ancient art, and ecological wonders.
About Bazhong - City Guide & Travel Information
1.Introduction: The Emerald in the Qinba Mountains Bazhong, a prefecture-level city in the northeastern part of Sichuan Province, is a hidden gem waiting to be discovered by the world. Geographically, it sits at the southern foot of the Daba Mountains, bordering Shaanxi Province to the north and Dazhou to the east. It is a typical mountain city, where the rugged terrain of the Qinling-Daba Mountains meets the fertile Sichuan Basin. Historically known as "Bazhou," this land has been a melting pot of cultures for thousands of years, serving as a vital corridor on the ancient Micang Road (Rice Granary Road) connecting the Central Plains to the Shu region.
2.Unlike the leisurely plains of: Chengdu or the snowy plateaus of Western Sichuan, Bazhong offers a unique "Bashan landscape." It is a city defined by its green mountains, clear waters, and a red soul. With a forest coverage rate of over 60%, it is a natural oxygen bar. The city is renowned for three major calling cards: "The Hometown of Chinese Red Army," "The Hometown of Chinese Carvings (Grottoes)," and "The Hometown of Chinese Tremella (Silver Ear Fungus)."
3.The Red Soul: An Open-Air Museum of Revolutionary History Bazhong holds a pivotal place in modern Chinese history. In the 1930s, the Fourth Front Army of the Chinese Workers' and Peasants' Red Army established the Sichuan-Shaanxi Revolutionary Base here, which was the second-largest Soviet area in China at the time. This history has left an indelible mark on the city's landscape and spirit. The Sichuan-Shaanxi Revolutionary Base Museum and the Red Army Stele Forest in Tongjiang County are must-visits. The Stele Forest is the largest of its kind in China, with thousands of stone tablets engraved with slogans and names, standing silently among the pine trees like an army that never left. Walking through these sites, visitors can feel the sheer scale of the historical events that took place here. In Bazhong, "Red" is not just a color; it is the spiritual totem of the city. The slogan "Support the Red Army" carved into the cliffs remains visible today, a testament to the deep bond between the army and the people.
4.Guangwushan: The First Mountain for Red Leaves in China If Bazhong has a color other than revolutionary red, it is the fiery crimson of autumn. Guangwushan (Light Fog Mountain) in Nanjiang County is the crown jewel of Bazhong's natural scenery. It is often hailed as having "The Best Red Leaves in China." Every year from mid-October to November, the mountain transforms into a riot of colors. Unlike other places where red leaves might be sparse, the red leaves of Guangwushan cover a massive area of over 800 square kilometers. The variety is staggering, with over 40 species of trees changing color, including the rare Beech and Maple. The landscape here is characterized by the unique Karst landforms combined with dense vegetation. The scenery changes with the elevation: the mountain peaks are often shrouded in the titular "light fog," creating a mystical atmosphere. Visitors can wander through the Eighteen Bends of Xianglu Mountain, where the winding roads cut through a golden and crimson forest, or stroll along the Black Bear Gully (Heixionggou), where crystal-clear streams flow over red rocks, reflecting the burning canopy above. It is a photographer's paradise and a painter's dream, often described as a "Golden Fairy Tale World."
5.Nuoshui River: A Gallery of Karst Wonders To the east in Tongjiang County lies the Nuoshui River Scenic Area. This area is famous for its majestic canyons and, most notably, its spectacular underground caves. The region sits on a massive limestone belt, and millions of years of water erosion have carved out a labyrinth of caverns. Among them, the Lion Cave (Shizidong) and Zhongfeng Cave are the most famous. These caves are not just holes in the ground; they are massive underground palaces with towering stalactites and stalagmites, underground rivers, and waterfalls. Some caves are so large they can accommodate tens of thousands of people. The Nuoshui River itself winds through deep gorges, offering thrilling rafting experiences in summer. The combination of "Mountain, Water, and Cave" makes Nuoshui River a quintessential example of Sichuan's diverse geology.
6.Nankan Grottoes: The Prosperity of Tang Dynasty on Cliffs Culturally, Bazhong is a significant center for Grotto Art. While the Dazu Rock Carvings represent the late period of Chinese grotto art, the Bazhong Grottoes (centered around Nankan, Xikan, and Beikan) shine as masterpieces of the prosperous Tang Dynasty. The Nankan Grottoes, located just south of the city center, are the most accessible. There are over 2,000 statues here, carved directly into the red sandstone cliffs. A distinctive feature of Bazhong's grottoes is the vivid coloring. Unlike the faded grey of many northern grottoes, the statues here still retain bright pigments of red, green, and blue, thanks to the shelter provided by the "Nankan Pavilion" built over them. The statues are known for their elegant figures and secular expressions, reflecting the aesthetic standards of the Tang Dynasty. They provide a glimpse into the religious fervor and artistic craftsmanship of the era when Bazhong was a bustling hub on the trade route.
7.Enyang Ancient Town: A Living History For a taste of traditional life, Enyang Ancient Town offers a step back in time. Once a bustling water wharf and a commercial center, Enyang preserves a large complex of Ming and Qing dynasty architecture. The town is built along the river, with suspended wooden houses (Diaojiaolou) lining the banks. Walking on the flagstone streets, you can see old teahouses filled with locals chatting, traditional barber shops, and blacksmiths still plying their trade. Enyang was also a county seat during the Red Army period, so you will find many "Red sites" integrated into the ancient streets, such as the old site of the Workers' and Peasants' Bank. It is a place where the hustle of history meets the tranquility of daily life.
Conclusion Bazhong is a city of layers. It is rugged yet gentle, ancient yet vibrant. It is where the red flags of history flutter against the backdrop of red autumn leaves. It is where the solemnity of Buddha statues watches over the flowing Nuoshui River. For the traveler, Bazhong offers a journey that satisfies the soul, the eyes, and the mind. It is a testament to the resilience of the Chinese spirit and the unyielding beauty of the Qinba Mountains. Whether you are a history buff, a nature lover, or an art enthusiast, Bazhong has a story to tell you.
Local Cuisine in Bazhong - Food & Dining Guide
Bazhong's cuisine is a delightful branch of Sichuan cuisine, heavily influenced by its mountain geography and the rich produce of the Qinba region. It emphasizes organic ingredients, savory spice, and hearty flavors.
1.Nanjiang Yellow: Goat (Nanjiang Huangyang) This is the most famous culinary export of Bazhong. The Nanjiang Yellow Goat is a breed unique to the region, known for its tender meat, high protein, and lack of strong gamey odor. The most popular way to eat it is Yellow Goat Mutton Soup (Huangyang Tang). The soup is simmered for hours until milky white and rich. Locals drink a bowl of soup first to warm up, then eat the meat dipped in a spicy mixture of chili powder and cilantro. It is considered a warming tonic, especially in winter.
2.Bazhong Bashan Local Chicken: Raised free-range in the mountains, the local chickens have firm flesh and distinct flavor. They are often stewed with wild mushrooms or chestnuts. The "Sour Radish Old Duck Soup" variation using local poultry is also popular, offering an appetizing sour and savory taste.
Tongjiang Tremella (Tongjiang Yin'er) Tongjiang is known as the "Hometown of Tremella" in China. The Tremella here is grown on oak logs in the misty mountains, giving it a thick texture and superior quality compared to bag-grown varieties. It is usually served as a sweet soup (Yin'er Tang) with rock sugar, red dates, and lotus seeds. It is gelatinous, soothing, and believed to be great for the skin and lungs.
3.Enyang Ti: Gao (Sugar Cakes) A specialty of Enyang Ancient Town, this is a traditional snack made from glutinous rice flour, sugar, and sesame. It is steamed or baked to perfection. The texture is soft and chewy, with a sweet, aromatic filling. It’s a perfect snack to carry while wandering the old streets.
Bashan Bacon (La Rou) Like much of rural Sichuan, Bazhong is famous for its cured meats. The pigs are grain-fed, and the meat is marinated with salt and spices before being slowly smoked over cypress wood branches. The resulting bacon is translucent when cooked, with a smoky, salty, and savory flavor that pairs perfectly with garlic sprouts or dried beans.
Accommodation Tips in Bazhong - Hotels & Lodging Guide
Bazhong offers a variety of accommodation options, but planning is crucial depending on which part of the city you visit and the season.
Bazhong City Center (Bazhou District)
- 1.Overview: Best for transit and visiting Nankan Grottoes.
- 2.Options: You will find the highest concentration of modern hotels here, including 4-star and standard business hotels like the Felton Grand Hotel Bazhong.
- 3.Convenience: Easy access to transportation and varied dining options. Prices are generally moderate (200-400 RMB).
Nanjiang County (For Guangwushan)
- 4.Overview: Essential if you are visiting for the Red Leaves.
- 5.Warning: During the Red Leaf Festival (mid-Oct to mid-Nov), accommodation in Nanjiang and especially Guangwushan town is extremely tight and prices can triple.
- 6.Recommendation: Book at least a month in advance if visiting in autumn. Options range from the Guangwushan Celebrity Hotel (high end) to numerous local farmstays (Nongjiale) in the valley. Farmstays offer a more authentic experience and local food but simpler facilities.
Tongjiang County (For Nuoshui River)
- 7.Overview: Best for visiting the caves and Red Army sites.
- 8.Options: The county town offers standard hotels. Near the Nuoshui River Scenic Area, there are resort-style hotels and smaller inns. Staying near the river allows for a peaceful evening atmosphere.
General Advice
- 9.Seasonality: Outside of the Red Leaf Festival and Chinese New Year, walk-ins are usually fine and prices are very affordable.
- 10.Comfort: In remote mountain areas (like deep inside Guangwushan), expect basic amenities. Bring your own toiletries if staying in budget farmstays.