Tianshui Travel Guide: The Oriental Sculpture Museum and Home of Fuxi

1.Introduction: The Pearl on the Silk Road Tianshui, situated in the southeastern part of Gansu Province, stands as a unique gem in Northwest China. Bordering Shaanxi Province to the east, it serves as the vital gateway to southeastern Gansu. Unlike the stereotypical arid landscapes often associated with the Silk Road, Tianshui is renowned for its mild climate and lush vegetation, earning it the beautiful moniker "Longshang Xiao Jiangnan" (Little Jiangnan north of Long Mountain). With a total area of 14,300 square kilometers and a history spanning over two millennia, Tianshui is not only the political, economic, and cultural center of the region but also a city where myth and history intertwine. The name "Tianshui" itself, meaning "Sky Water," is derived from a legend of "Tian He Zhu Shui" (The Heavenly River pouring water), suggesting a land blessed by the heavens.

2.Maijishan Grottoes: The Oriental Sculpture Museum The absolute crown jewel of Tianshui’s cultural heritage is the Maijishan (Wheat Stack Mountain) Grottoes. Located approximately 50 kilometers southeast of the city in the Maiji District, this isolated peak in the Xiaolong Mountain range of the Western Qinling Mountains rises abruptly 142 meters from the ground,. Its unique shape, resembling a rural wheat stack, gives the mountain its name. As one of China's Four Great Grottoes—alongside Dunhuang Mogao, Longmen, and Yungang—Maijishan is a world-famous art treasure house and a National Key Cultural Relic Protection Unit. While Dunhuang is celebrated for its murals and Yungang for its stone carvings, Maijishan is globally renowned for its exquisite clay sculptures, earning the praise of sculptor Liu Kaiqu as a "Grand Sculpture Museum of Dynasties". The construction of the grottoes began in the Later Qin era (384-417 AD), flourishing during the Northern Wei, and continuing through the West Wei, North Zhou, Sui, Tang, Five Dynasties, Song, Yuan, Ming, and Qing dynasties. Today, 194 caves remain, housing over 7,200 statues and 1,300 square meters of murals. The geology of Maijishan, composed of purple-brown water-formed conglomerate rock, was unsuitable for fine stone carving. Consequently, ancient artisans primarily utilized mud and clay for their sculptures. These works are not merely religious icons; they systematically reflect the evolution of Chinese clay sculpture art over a millennium. The grottoes are divided into East and West Cliffs, a separation caused by a massive earthquake during the Tang Dynasty (734 AD).

• 3.The East Cliff features masterpieces like the Seven Buddha Pavilion (also known as Sanhua Tower). Located at the highest point of the East Cliff, about 70 meters above the ground, it is the largest and most magnificent palace-style grotto in Maijishan. The seven niches here contain 42 Bodhisattva statues, characterized by a solemn yet approachable demeanor, radiating human kindness rather than distant divinity. Adjacent to this is the "Bull Hall" (Cave 5), famous for a statue of Mahesvara standing upon a bull. The bull is sculpted with incredible vitality—its round eyes look mischievous, and its posture suggests it is about to leap, earning it the local nickname "The Golden-Hoofed, Silver-Horned Calf",.
• 4.The West Cliff houses the invaluable "Wanfotang" (Hall of Ten Thousand Buddhas, Cave 133). It contains 18 stone steles and is dense with clay sculptures, including a 3.5-meter tall welcoming Buddha. Cave 127 is another highlight, famous for its large-scale murals depicting the "Western Pure Land" and intricate stone sculptures that are considered rare treasures of world Buddhist art. The engineering feat of Maijishan is as impressive as its art. The plank roads connecting the caves are suspended on the cliff face, creating a breathtaking "Sky Gallery." Walking these paths, surrounded by clouds and mist, visitors can feel the ancient ingenuity that led to the saying, "After chopping all the wood in Nanshan, the Maiji Cliff was built".

5.Fuxi Culture: The Roots of Chinese Civilization Tianshui is proud of its status as the birthplace of Fuxi, the first of the Three Sovereigns and the "Human Ancestor" of Chinese mythology. Legend has it that Fuxi’s mother, Huaxu, conceived him after stepping in a giant footprint at Leize, giving birth to him in Tianshui (ancient Chengji) after 12 years. Fuxi is a pivotal figure who transitioned Chinese ancestors from barbarism to civilization. He is credited with creating the Eight Trigrams (Bagua) to explain the laws of the universe, inventing fishing nets to improve productivity, creating the musical instruments Qin and Se, and establishing the institution of marriage,. To honor this legacy, the Fuxi Temple was constructed in the city during the Ming Dynasty (1490 AD). It is the largest and best-preserved temple dedicated to Fuxi in China. The complex sits facing south, featuring a grand layout of archways, gates, and palaces typical of ancient Chinese royal architecture. The main structure, the Xiantian Hall, houses a massive statue of Fuxi. He is depicted wearing leaves, holding the "Former Heaven Eight Trigrams Disk," symbolizing his discovery of the duality of Yin and Yang. The temple grounds are adorned with ancient cypress trees, 64 of which were originally planted according to the positioning of the 64 hexagrams. A unique artifact within the temple is the River Map and Luo Shu stone disks. Legend says Fuxi and his sister Nuwa, the only survivors of a great flood, rolled these stones down from opposite mountains. When the stones combined, it was taken as a sign from heaven that they could marry and repopulate the earth. Today, visitors touch these stones in hopes of marital harmony. Every year on the 13th day of the fifth lunar month (legendary birthday of the Dragon), the Fuxi Cultural Tourism Festival is held here, attracting Chinese people from all over the world to pay homage to their roots.

6.Natural Beauty and Geography: Tianshui’s geography is a blend of northern ruggedness and southern gentleness. Located at the intersection of the Longguan Road and Qinlong South Road of the Silk Road, it acts as a transition zone. The Maijishan Scenic Area alone covers 215 square kilometers, encompassing not just the grottoes but also the Immortal Cliff (Xianren Ya), Stone Gate (Shimen), and Quxi Stream. The city is surrounded by green mountains and clear waters. The "Tianshui" name itself implies a connection to water, and the region's ecology supports a diverse range of flora. The lush greenery around Maijishan, described as having "green pines and cypresses, clouds flying across, and clear water flowing long", offers a stark contrast to the deserts typically associated with the Gansu corridor. This ecological advantage makes Tianshui an ideal summer retreat, a role it has played since the time of the Western Han dynasty warlord Wei Xiao.

Conclusion Tianshui is a city where you can look into the eyes of a clay Buddha sculpted 1,500 years ago and feel a human connection. It is a place where you can stand under ancient cypresses and contemplate the very origins of Chinese civilization through the legend of Fuxi. It is a unique fusion of the Central Plains culture and the frontier spirit of the Silk Road. Whether you are an art historian marveling at the "Sky Gallery" of Maijishan, a cultural pilgrim seeking the roots of the Dragon, or a traveler looking for the softer side of Northwest China, Tianshui offers a profound and beautiful journey through time.