The Millennium Salt Capital: Discovering the Living History of Heijing Ancient Town

The "Millennium Salt Capital" of Yunnan

1.Located in Lufeng: City, Chuxiong Yi Autonomous Prefecture, Yunnan Province, Heijing Ancient Town is a hidden historical gem situated on the banks of the Longchuan River. Approximately 150 kilometers from Kunming and 40 kilometers from the Lufeng county seat, this town was once one of the most important economic hubs in the region. Known historically as "Heiyanjing" (Black Salt Well) because of its deep, dark brine, the town's history of salt production dates back to the Tang Dynasty. By the Ming and Qing dynasties, Heijing reached its zenith, contributing over half of the total salt tax revenue for the entire Yunnan province. It was hailed as the "Salt Capital of Central Yunnan" and the "First Ancient Town of Yunnan" due to its immense wealth and strategic importance. Unlike the highly commercialized ancient towns of Lijiang or Dali, Heijing retains a quiet, rustic atmosphere, preserving the layout and soul of a bustling salt trade center from centuries past.

A Living Museum of Salt and Architecture

Heijing is often described as a "Living Fossil of Chinese Salt Culture." The town's architecture reflects the prosperity brought by the salt trade. Wealthy merchants from other provinces, particularly Jiangxi, Huguang (Hunan and Hubei), and Fujian, flocked here, building magnificent guild halls and residences. The town features a unique "checkerboard" layout with the Longchuan River winding through it. Visitors can explore the well-preserved Old Street, paved with red sandstone slabs, and admire the intricate wood carvings and "Diaojiaolou" (stilt houses) that blend Han architectural styles with local Yi ethnic elements. The Jiangxi Guild Hall (Wanshou Palace) and Huguang Guild Hall stand as testaments to the immigrant culture that shaped the town. The residential compounds, such as the Zhang Family and Xu Family Ancestral Halls, display the luxury of the salt merchants, with elaborate eaves and spacious courtyards that whisper tales of a bygone era,.

The Legend of the Black Dragon

The town's name and history are deeply intertwined with local legends. It is said that a "Black Dragon" guarded the salt wells, and the brine's dark color was a gift from this dragon king. The ancient salt wells, some of which are still visible, were the lifeblood of the town. In the past, the smoke from boiling salt filled the valley, and the river was crowded with boats transporting "white gold" to the outside world. Today, visitors can see the ruins of these salt wells and the traditional water wheels that were used to irrigate fields and aid in production. The town also hosts the Wenchang Palace and Wuhou Shrine, reflecting the strong Confucian influence brought by the Han merchants who valued education and loyalty alongside their business endeavors.

A Blend of Culture and Cuisine

Heijing is not just about buildings; it is a melting pot of cultures. While dominated by Han salt merchants, the area also has a strong Yi and Hui presence. This fusion is evident in the local customs and festivals, such as the Salt Culture Festival held during the Spring Festival, where visitors can witness traditional "Salt Gang" performances and lantern festivals. The culinary scene is equally unique, featuring "Salt Gang Cuisine" (Yanbang Cai). Local specialties like the famous Heijing Salt-Baked Chicken (often referred to in the context of local savory dishes) and various salt-preserved foods offer a taste of history. Whether you are wandering through the quiet alleys, admiring the "flying eaves" of the guild halls, or tasting the local tofu pudding by the river, Heijing offers a profound journey into the economic and cultural history of China's southwest borderlands.