Doushaguan Wuchidao: Five Roads Parallel & Hanging Coffins in Yunnan

Doushaguan (also transliterated as Dousha Guan or Bean Sand Pass) stands as a rare convergence of geography, history, and anthropology in the borderlands between Yunnan and Sichuan. In the Yanjin County of Zhaotong City, the Guanhe River has carved a steep canyon through the limestone mountains, creating a natural chokepoint that has been continuously used for over two millennia.

The site is most famous for the "Five Roads Parallel" phenomenon, where Qin Dynasty stone road, an ancient river route, a 20th-century railway, an old national highway, and a modern expressway all run side by side within a single narrow defile. The restored Dousha Ancient Town adds a cultural and culinary dimension, making this a layered stop for travelers interested in Chinese infrastructure history, ancient trade networks, and ethnic minority heritage.

Overview and Significance

The "First Pass of Southern Yunnan"

Doushaguan has been a strategic gate between the Sichuan Basin and the Yunnan-Guizhou Plateau for over 2,200 years. Its name—literally "Bean Sand Pass"—comes from the color of the local sandstone, which resembles crushed beans. The canyon's steep walls and narrow river corridor made it an ideal defensive position, earning the phrase "one man guards the pass, ten thousand cannot get through." This location was the primary route for the Southern Silk Road, which connected the imperial capitals of the Central Plains with the kingdoms of Nanzhao and Dali, and further south into present-day Myanmar and India. The Ancient Tea Horse Road also passed through, as pack horses carried tea, salt, and other goods between the highlands and lowlands.

A Living Museum of Transportation

What makes Doushaguan unique among historical passes is not just its age but its continuous use across radically different technological eras. The canyon acts as a natural corridor, and each generation built its own road without abandoning the old ones. The resulting ensemble—from the carved stone path of the Qin Dynasty to the elevated concrete of the G85 Expressway—offers a visible timeline of road building in China. This concentration is not found at other comparable passes like Jianmen Pass in Sichuan or the ancient plank roads of the Three Gorges region. For visitors interested in engineering history or simply seeking a dramatic photo, "Five Roads Parallel" is the signature attraction.

Five Roads Parallel

What You See from the Viewing Platform

The viewing platform on the Doushaguan cliff offers a sweeping panorama of the canyon bottom. From left to right or right to left (depending on facing direction), the five routes are:

1. Qin Dynasty Five-Chi Road – a narrow stone ledge carved into the cliff face, about 1.5 meters wide.
2. Ancient Guanhe Waterway – the river itself, used for boat transport since antiquity.
3. Kunming-Chengdu Railway – a single-track rail line built in the 1950s-60s.
4. National Highway 213 – a two-lane asphalt road dating from the mid-20th century.
5. G85 Expressway – a modern four-lane highway completed in 2006.

This parallel alignment is not artificial; it results from the same terrain forcing all routes to share the narrow valley floor where the river has cut through the mountains. The juxtaposition is immediate: a traveler standing on the Qin road can see a train, a truck, and a car pass within a few hundred meters, each representing a different century's solution to the same geographic problem.

Photography and Timing

The best light for photographing the five roads is in the morning or late afternoon, when the low sun angles illuminate the canyon walls and cast long shadows. A telephoto lens (70-200mm) allows compression of the parallel lines, making them appear even closer together. A wide-angle lens (16-24mm) can capture the entire canyon from the platform. Midday sun creates harsh contrast and can wash out the details of the stone road. If possible, visit on a weekday to minimize traffic on the modern roads, which can clutter the scene. Winter and spring often offer the clearest air; summer can bring haze and occasional rain that muddies the river.

The Ancient Five-Chi Road

History and Construction

The "Five-Chi Road" (Wuchidao) was ordered by Qin Shi Huang, the first emperor of a unified China, around 240 BCE. The hydraulic engineer Li Bing (known for the Dujiangyan irrigation system) is traditionally credited with overseeing the project. The road was originally a plank road supported by beams inserted into holes drilled into the cliff face, but the surviving sections are paved with stone, likely from later repairs during the Han, Tang, and Ming dynasties. The name "Five-Chi" refers to the width—about 1.5 meters (five Chinese feet), sufficient for a single horse or ox cart.

Walking the Ancient Stones

A restored section of the Five-Chi Road, extending several hundred meters, is open to visitors. The path is uneven and can be slippery after rain. Keep an eye on the stone surface for deep, rounded depressions—these are purportedly hoof prints left by countless pack horses over two millennia. While some have been exaggerated by erosion, the marks are undeniably ancient and offer a tangible connection to the Silk Road caravans. The walk takes about 20-30 minutes at a slow pace, but allow additional time for photography and reflection. Handrails have been installed in some sections, but parts remain exposed to the cliff drop.

Who Should Walk It

The Five-Chi Road is suitable for most reasonably fit visitors. Those with severe balance issues, vertigo, or mobility impairments may find the uneven stones and lack of consistent railing challenging. The path is not wheelchair accessible. For history enthusiasts, it is a highlight: few places in China allow you to physically tread on a 2,200-year-old road that once connected the empire to its borderlands.

Bo Hanging Coffins

The Vanished Bo People

Across the Guanhe River, high on the vertical limestone cliffs, are wooden coffins lodged in crevices and on ledges. These are the funerary remains of the Bo people, an ancient Tai-Kadai ethnic group that inhabited parts of southern Yunnan and northern Sichuan until the Ming dynasty, when they were assimilated or displaced. The Bo custom of cliff burial involved hoisting heavy coffins (each carved from a single log) up to 100-150 meters above the river. How they achieved this without modern equipment remains a mystery. Theories include the use of ropes from the top, wooden scaffolding, or ramps, but no definitive evidence exists.

Viewing the Coffins

The coffins are best seen from the observation decks along the Five-Chi Road or from the Dousha Ancient Town side. Binoculars or a telephoto lens (200mm or more) are essential for a clear view. The coffins are scattered in clusters; some are single, others stacked. Age and weather have darkened the wood, making them blend with the shadowed rock. The number visible varies as coffins fall or are disturbed. Avoid expecting to see them up close—the river and cliff are inaccessible without specialized climbing gear, and the practice of hanging coffins is now protected.

Ethical Note

These are human remains, treated with respect by local authorities and visitors alike. Do not attempt to throw objects toward them or use flash photography if any special viewing area is close. The Bo people's culture has vanished, and these coffins are among the few remaining archaeological traces.

Tang Dynasty Stele (Yuan Zi Stele)

A Diplomatic Inscription

Near the entrance of the Five-Chi Road, a cliff inscription known as the Tang Dynasty Yuan Zi Stele (or Tang Stele of Alliance) is carved into the rock. It dates from 794 CE, during the Tang dynasty, and records a covenant between the Tang Empire and the Nanzhao Kingdom. Nanzhao was a powerful Tai-speaking kingdom centered in present-day Dali, Yunnan, that often shifted allegiance between Tang China and the Tibetan Empire. This stele marks a moment of renewed alliance.

Content and Legibility

The inscription is in classical Chinese. Its location on the cliff face protects it from casual damage, and a protective pavilion covers the carved surface. While most casual visitors cannot read the text, the stele's significance as a National Key Cultural Relic underscores the importance of Doushaguan as a site of political and cultural negotiation, not just a commercial passage. For those interested in Chinese calligraphy and epigraphy, the Tang script is well-preserved and offers a direct artistic connection to the 8th century.

Dousha Ancient Town

Reconstruction and Architecture

After the 2006 earthquake in Yanjin County, Dousha Ancient Town was rebuilt to preserve its Ming and Qing dynasty character. The main street is lined with two-story wooden and brick buildings, typical of Yunnan-Sichuan border architecture. Though some may find it overly restored, the town provides a cohesive historical atmosphere and a pleasant base for exploring the pass. Temples, ancestral halls, and a small museum add to the experience.

Local Food

The town is known for Yanjin douhua (bean curd), often served in a spicy, numbingly peppercorn-laced broth. Local hotpots, often chicken-based with wild mushrooms and pickled vegetables, are popular. Street stalls sell grilled tofu, skewers, and xianguo—a type of savory pancake. Do not expect gourmet fine dining; the food is hearty, rustic, and suited to the cool, damp climate of the canyon.

Visitor Tips: Decision Guidance

Who Should Visit

• History and transportation nerds – The Five Roads Parallel is an unmatched visual timeline.
• Photographers – The canyon offers strong compositional opportunities, especially with the contrasts of old and new.
• Silk Road enthusiasts – Doushaguan is one of the few well-preserved sections of the Southern Silk Road.
• Budget travelers – The entry fee is moderate (paid ticket type, but price not specified in source), and the ancient town has affordable lodging.

Who Should Skip

• Those seeking pristine nature – The canyon is scenic but heavily marked by roads, railway, and town.
• Travelers with limited mobility – Uneven stone paths and steps make much of the historic road inaccessible.
• Those short on time – A visit requires at least 2-3 hours, and the drive from Zhaotong city (about 2 hours each way) makes it a half-day commitment.

When to Go / When to Avoid

• Best seasons: Spring (March-May) and autumn (September-November) for moderate temperatures and clear skies.
• Summer: Hot and humid, with possible monsoon rains causing muddy river water and increased haze.
• Winter: Cool, but can be foggy in the canyon; minimal crowds.
• Avoid: National holidays (Golden Week in October, May Day, Spring Festival) when domestic tourists fill the ancient town.

Safety and Altitude

Altitude is about 1150 meters, posing no altitude-sickness risk. The site involves walking on uneven stone, with some sections near cliff edges. Keep a hand on the rail where provided, and wear sturdy, non-slip shoes. The canyon can have sudden gusts of wind; secure hats and loose items. No specific health precautions needed.

Route Logic

Doushaguan is located in Yanjin County, approximately 100 km northeast of Zhaotong city (about 2 hours by car via G85 Expressway) and about 130 km south of Yibin, Sichuan. The most common approach is from Zhaotong, which has an airport with flights from Kunming and other major cities. Alternatively, from Chengdu or Kunming, you can take a high-speed train to Yibin and then hire a car or take a bus to Yanjin.

Public buses run from Zhaotong bus station to Yanjin, then a local bus to Dousha town. The journey from Zhaotong can be done as a day trip, but staying overnight in Dousha Ancient Town allows early morning access before crowds.

FAQ

Where is Doushaguan located?
It sits in Dousha Town, Yanjin County, Zhaotong City, Yunnan Province, right on the border with Sichuan's Yibin region, at the transition from the Sichuan Basin to the Yunnan-Guizhou Plateau.

What is the "Five-Chi Road"?
It is a narrow ancient road built during the Qin Dynasty (circa 240 BCE), approximately 1.5 meters (five Chinese feet) wide. It served as a key passage into Yunnan for the Southern Silk Road. Parts of the original stone pavement survive with visible hoof prints.

Can I see the hanging coffins close up?
No. The coffins are on the opposite cliff across the Guanhe River. They are best viewed from the observation decks on the Five-Chi Road side. A telephoto lens or binoculars will give a better view. Do not attempt to cross the river or climb the cliff.

What is the best time to visit?
Spring (March to May) and autumn (September to November) are ideal for comfortable weather and clear visibility. Summer is hot and wet; winter can be foggy but quiet.

Is food available?
Yes. Dousha Ancient Town offers local specialties, particularly Yanjin douhua (bean curd) and chicken hotpot, along with various street snacks.

How long should I spend?
2 to 3 hours covers the Five-Chi Road walk, views of the hanging coffins, the Tang stele, and a stroll through the ancient town. If you want to explore more of the town and eat leisurely, budget 4 hours.

Is the site suitable for children?
Older children (12+) may appreciate the history, but the uneven stones and cliff edges require supervision. Younger children may find the walking tiring.

Are there English signs or guides?
Signage is primarily in Chinese. Hiring a local guide in Zhaotong or Yibin can provide translation and narrative. Self-guided study of the history before visiting is recommended.

Can I visit as part of a larger Yunnan-Sichuan road trip?
Yes. Doushaguan is located on the G85 Expressway that connects Kunming and Chengdu, making it a logical stop between the two provinces. It is roughly 3.5 hours from Kunming by car, 4 hours from Chengdu.

What should I bring?
Sturdy walking shoes, a bottle of water, sun protection (hat and sunscreen) even in winter, and a camera with a zoom lens. Cash is advisable: many smaller vendors in the ancient town may not accept cards.

This article was compiled from verified source data. For current ticket prices, opening hours, and accessibility details, please check the official Yanjin County tourism website or consult a Zhaotong-based travel agency. The historical interpretations are based on generally accepted academic consensus as of the source date.