The Sky City of the Bon Religion: A Pilgrimage to the 3000-Year-Old Zizhu Monastery Perched on Cliffs

The "Sky City" of Eastern Tibet

Suspended at a dizzying altitude of 4,800 meters on the jagged peaks of Zizhu Mountain in Dingqing County (Dengqen), Chamdo, lies one of the most spectacular and enigmatic monasteries in all of Tibet—Zizhu Monastery (Zizhu Si). In Tibetan, "Zizhu" translates to "Six Peaks," referring to the six towering rocky pinnacles that cradle the monastery, representing the six perfections of giving, discipline, patience, diligence, meditation, and wisdom,. Often described as a "Sky City" or "Temple in the Air" due to its perilous position clinging to the sheer limestone cliffs, Zizhu Monastery offers a visual impact that rivals the Potala Palace but with a wild, primal beauty that feels closer to the heavens,. It is famously known for the saying: "Zizhu is nowhere but in the sky," reflecting both its physical inaccessibility and its spiritual elevation.

The Stronghold of the Ancient Bon Religion

1.Zizhu Monastery is not a typical: Tibetan Buddhist temple; it is the oldest and most important monastery of the Bon religion (Benjiao), the indigenous spiritual tradition of Tibet that predates Buddhism. With a history spanning over 3,000 years, it is considered one of the four great sacred mountains of Bon and a vital spiritual center that has preserved the ancient lineage, scriptures, and rituals of this pre-Buddhist faith,. While Buddhism became dominant across Tibet, Zizhu Monastery remained a steadfast sanctuary for Bon, maintaining its unique traditions, including the distinctive practice of circumambulating counter-clockwise (unlike the clockwise tradition of Buddhism). The monastery is a living museum of Tibetan history, housing rare Bon scriptures, thangkas, and statues that differ significantly in style and iconography from their Buddhist counterparts,.

A Landscape of Spiritual Awe

2.The geology of Zizhu: Mountain is as spiritually significant as the monastery itself. The mountain is a rugged formation of strange rocks and cliffs, riddled with natural caves and tunnels that have served as meditation retreats for high monks and yogis for millennia. The most famous geological feature is the "Heavenly Gate" (Tianmen), a massive natural hole piercing through the mountain ridge west of the main temple. It is believed to be a passage between the mortal world and the celestial realms, where merely walking through can cleanse one's karma,. The landscape is dotted with sacred sites, including a sky burial platform near the top, which adds a solemn layer to the atmosphere, reminding visitors of the impermanence of life,.

The Grand Zizhu Spirit Dance

Zizhu Monastery is renowned for its grand religious festivals, particularly the Zizhu God Dance (Cham) held every 12 years in the Year of the Rooster. This festival is a profound display of Bon culture, featuring elaborate masks, ancient costumes, and ritual dances that enact the subjugation of evil spirits and the blessing of all sentient beings. Tens of thousands of pilgrims flock to the mountain during this time, creating a vibrant scene of devotion against the backdrop of the rugged peaks,. Even outside of festival times, the daily sight of monks debating scriptures or meditating in the hanging cells offers a glimpse into a spiritual life that has remained largely unchanged for centuries.

The Journey of a Lifetime

3.Reaching Zizhu: Monastery is an adventure in itself. The road up the mountain is a winding, unpaved gravel track that tests the nerves of drivers but rewards travelers with breathtaking panoramic views of the surrounding valleys and snow-capped ranges,. As you ascend, the air becomes thinner and the landscape more surreal, with the red and white monastic buildings appearing to grow organically out of the grey rock. Visiting Zizhu is not just about sightseeing; it is a pilgrimage to the roots of Tibetan civilization, offering a rare opportunity to witness the resilience of the Bon faith and the raw, unadulterated beauty of the Highland,.