The Forest of Faith at the Foot of the Gods: Witnessing the Spirit of Mount Kailash at Prayer Flag Square

The Gateway to the Sacred Mountain

1.Located at the foot of the sacred Mount: Kailash (Gang Rinpoche) in Pulan County, Ngari Prefecture, the Prayer Flag Square (Jingfan Guangchang) serves as the spiritual gateway and the grand prelude to the holy pilgrimage known as the "Kora." Situated at an altitude of 4,675 meters, this area is not just a scenic viewing platform but a profound intersection of the material and spiritual worlds. It stands as the most direct and spectacular observation point for the southern face of Mount Kailash, the axis of the world in the hearts of millions of believers. Before embarking on the arduous 52-kilometer trek around the mountain, pilgrims and travelers gather here to pay homage, making it a place where the grandeur of nature meets the intensity of human faith.

A Forest of Wind Horses

The most striking feature of the square is the overwhelming visual of the "Prayer Flag Forest." Thousands of colorful prayer flags, known as "Lungta" or Wind Horses, are strung together, forming a vast, fluttering ocean of red, yellow, blue, white, and green against the backdrop of the desolate plateau. In Tibetan belief, every time the wind blows a flag, it spreads the scriptures printed on it to the heavens, equivalent to chanting the mantra once. Standing in the center of the square, visitors are enveloped by the sound of the flags flapping in the strong valley wind, creating a symphony of devotion that resonates with the heartbeat of the land. This "Five-colored Ocean" is not chaotic but represents a sincere and dense accumulation of prayers for peace, happiness, and blessings for all sentient beings,.

The Smoke of Offerings

2.Central to the square is the Wei: Sang (Mulberry Smoke) platform. Here, pilgrims burn cypress branches and aromatic herbs, sending plumes of white smoke rising towards the sky. This ancient ritual is believed to be a medium for communicating with the gods, bridging the gap between heaven and earth. As the fragrant smoke curls upwards to mingle with the clouds around the summit of Kailash, one can feel the deep solemnity of the moment. The smell of the burning pine, mixed with the crisp highland air, creates an olfactory memory that defines the sanctity of the Ngari region. It is here that one truly understands the Tibetan reverence for nature and the divine,.

A Stage for the Gods

Culturally, the square is linked to the legendary battle of magic between the Buddhist master Milarepa and the Bon practitioner Naro Bonchung for control of the mountain. It is said that Milarepa's victory secured Kailash as a Buddhist stronghold. The square is also the focal point during the Saga Dawa Festival (usually in May or June), which commemorates the birth, enlightenment, and nirvana of Sakyamuni Buddha. During this time, a giant flagpole is raised (often associated with the nearby Tarboche area), and the square becomes a sea of people, with pilgrims from all over Tibet and neighboring countries gathering to replace old flags with new ones, creating a vibrant tapestry of culture and devotion,.

The Golden Moment

For photographers and nature lovers, the Prayer Flag Square offers an unrivaled vantage point. It provides a clear, unobstructed view of Mount Kailash's southern face, with its distinctive pyramid shape and the swastika-like vertical ice trough. The most breathtaking moment occurs at sunrise, when the first rays of light hit the snow-capped peak, turning it into a "Golden Mountain" while the prayer flags below remain in shadow, creating a dramatic contrast of light and color. Surrounding the square are piles of Mani stones, carved with mantras and prayers by passing pilgrims, adding another layer of texture and meaning to this sacred landscape. It is a place to sit quietly, listen to the wind, and watch the play of light on the roof of the world.