The Beating Heart of Lijiang: A Culinary and Cultural Journey Through Zhongyi Market

The Living Kitchen of Lijiang

1.If the Sifang Street is the parlor of Lijiang: Ancient Town, designed for guests from afar, then Zhongyi Market is the kitchen and the beating heart of the Naxi people. Located in the southwest corner of the Lijiang Ancient Town, near the famous Mufu (Mu Chieftain's Palace), this market offers a stark and refreshing contrast to the polished tourist streets. It is the only agricultural market still active within the ancient town's conservation area. Here, you step away from the commercialized souvenir shops and into a "living museum" of Naxi daily life. As the first rays of sunlight cross the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain and hit the grey tiles of the town, Zhongyi Market wakes up to the sounds of bargaining, the scent of fresh herbs, and the vibrant colors of local produce. It is widely regarded by travelers as the most "grounded" and authentic spot to experience the true Lijiang lifestyle,.

An Ecological Highland Garden

Walking into the core area of the market feels like entering a high-altitude botanical garden. The stalls are overflowing with the gifts of the region's unique geography. You will find vegetables and fruits you might never have seen before, such as "aquatic roots" and various highland herbs. The most spectacular sight occurs between June and October, the rainy season, when the market transforms into a wild mushroom exhibition. Baskets are filled with precious fungi like Matsutake, Morels, and the distinctively delicious Jizong mushrooms. Locals pile them into small mountains, emitting a fragrance of earth and pine that defines the scent of a Yunnan summer. The market also showcases seasonal fruits like the famous Lijiang Snow Peach, creating a visual feast of colors—the red of tomatoes, the green of wild herbs, and the earthy tones of roots—painted against the backdrop of the snow-capped mountains.

A Feast of Naxi Flavors

For foodies, Zhongyi Market is a paradise of authentic flavors. Unlike the standardized tourist menus, the food here is what the locals eat every day. You must try the Naxi Baba, a local flatbread, with "Liang's Baba" being a particularly famous stall where the aroma of freshly baked wheat fills the air. Another staple is Jidou Liangfen (Chickpea Jelly), a greyish jelly served cold with chili oil or hot in a pan. You will also find strings of Mi Guan Chang (rice sausages) hanging from stalls, a traditional Naxi specialty made with pig blood and rice. For a hearty meal, small restaurants like Yongxia Snack within the market serve delicious local dishes like braised beef tendon and stir-fries at very affordable prices, offering a true taste of the "Caravan" (Ma Bang) culture that once thrived on the Tea Horse Road,.

A Cultural Mosaic

Zhongyi Market is not just about commerce; it is a cultural crossroads. The name "Zhongyi" means "Loyalty and Righteousness," reflecting the values of the Mu chieftains who once ruled this land. Historically, this area was a hub on the Tea Horse Road, where caravans paused to trade and rest. Today, you can still see the legacy of this trade in the handicrafts sold here. Artisans hammer out copperware, a traditional Naxi craft, and weave bamboo baskets used for daily shopping. The market is also a great place to observe the ethnic diversity of Lijiang. You will see grandmas dressed in traditional Naxi "sheepskin shawl" costumes, as well as Bai, Yi, and Pumi people from surrounding villages coming to sell their mountain goods. The mixture of dialects, the colorful attire, and the smoke rising from breakfast stalls create a vivid, living scene of ethnic harmony.