The Sapphire Soul of the Sky Road: Cuona Lake's Sacred Waters

The Pearl of the Sky Road

1.In the vast hinterland of the Northern: Tibet (Qiangtang) Plateau, nestled between the Nyainqentanglha Mountains and the Kunlun Mountains, lies a breathtaking expanse of turquoise water: Tsonag Lake (Cuona Lake). Located in Amdo County, Nagqu City, this majestic lake sits at an altitude of 4,650 meters and covers an area of approximately 300 square kilometers. It is renowned not only as a pristine highland lake but as the "Pearl of the Sky Road" because it is the closest lake to the Qinghai-Tibet Railway. For travelers riding the train to Lhasa, Tsonag Lake offers the most stunning window view, where the railway track runs merely 20 meters from the lakeshore at its closest point, creating an illusion that the train is gliding upon the water.

The Source of the Angry River

Geographically, Tsonag Lake holds immense significance as the source of the Nujiang River (Salween River),. It is considered one of the highest freshwater lakes in the world. The lake is fed by glacial meltwater from the surrounding snow-capped peaks and underground aquifers. The water here is crystal clear, reflecting the changing moods of the plateau sky. On sunny days, the surface mirrors the azure sky and white clouds, while the distant Nyainqentanglha mountains stand guard, creating a scene of tranquil beauty that contrasts with the rugged wilderness of the surrounding Changtang Grassland.

A Sacred Black Lake

The name "Tsonag" (or Cuona) translates from Tibetan as "Black Lake". In the local spiritual worldview, "black" signifies depth and profundity rather than darkness. Tsonag Lake is revered as a holy lake by the local people and is considered the "Soul Lake" of the Razheng Living Buddha. Legends say that the lake is the residence of the Dragon King or a protective deity named "Cuona". Along the lake's shores, visitors can see piles of Mani stones and colorful prayer flags fluttering in the wind. These are offerings left by pilgrims who circumambulate the lake to pray for peace, health, and favorable weather, adding a profound layer of cultural spirituality to the natural landscape.

A Sanctuary for Highland Wildlife

Beyond its spiritual and geographical fame, Tsonag Lake is a vibrant ecosystem. The wetlands and meadows surrounding the lake are lush and fertile, making it a paradise for highland wildlife. It is a crucial habitat for the Black-necked Crane, known as the "Plateau Divine Bird," as well as bar-headed geese and mandarin ducks. Visitors frequently spot herds of Tibetan antelopes and Tibetan gazelles grazing on the lakeside pastures. The harmony between the passing trains, the grazing wildlife, and the silent holy lake creates a unique picture of coexistence on the roof of the world.

A Photographer's Dream

For photographers, Tsonag Lake offers a feast of colors. The lake's water changes hues with the sunlight, shifting from deep emerald to light blue and dark indigo. The best times to view the lake are during sunrise and sunset. At sunrise, the golden light hits the snowy peaks of the Nyainqentanglha range, casting a warm glow over the cool blue waters—a phenomenon known as "Golden Mountain at Sunrise". At sunset, the entire landscape is dyed in hues of gold and purple, creating a silhouette of the mountains against the shimmering lake. Whether viewed from the window of a speeding train or from a designated viewing platform along the G109 National Highway, Tsonag Lake presents a landscape of ethereal beauty.