Tibetan King Tombs Shannan: Ancient Royal Cemetery of the Tubo Empire

# Tibetan King Tombs: The Earthen Pyramids of the Tubo Empire

The Tibetan King Tombs (Zang Wang Mu, 藏王墓) in Qonggyai County, Shannan, represent the largest and most significant imperial burial complex on the Tibetan Plateau. Often called the "Valley of the Kings of Tibet," this sprawling necropolis contains the earthen mounds of the Tsenpos (emperors), their ministers, and consorts from the Tubo Dynasty (7th–9th centuries AD).

Unlike the gilded monasteries of Lhasa, this site offers a raw, silent encounter with the region’s pre-Buddhist imperial past. For travelers who want to understand Tibet beyond its religious identity, the Tibetan King Tombs provide an essential historical layer.

This article covers the historical background, key tombs, practical travel guidance, and tips for making the most of your visit. It is designed for independent travelers, history enthusiasts, and photographers planning a trip to Shannan.

## Historical Significance of the Tibetan King Tombs

The Tubo Dynasty emerged from the Yarlung Valley in the 7th century and grew into a powerful empire that controlled the entire plateau and clashed with the Tang Dynasty for control of Silk Road trade routes. The Tibetan King Tombs are the physical legacy of that empire. According to historical texts, the tombs hold the remains of the 29th through 40th generation of Tubo kings, with the most famous being Songtsen Gampo, the 33rd king who unified Tibet, founded Lhasa, and married Princess Wencheng of the Tang court.

### Why This Site Matters
- **Only surviving royal cemetery in Tibet:** Unlike later Buddhist stupas or sky burials, these tumuli represent a unique burial tradition centered on earthen pyramids.
- **National protected status:** The site is a National Key Cultural Relic Protection Unit (designated in 1961), which means conservation limits public access but preserves its integrity.
- **Historical cross-references:** Stone steles and lion statues on site provide rare written records of Tubo achievements, complementing Chinese and Tibetan annals.

The tombs are located in the Qonggyai Valley, a landscape chosen for its auspicious geomantic setting: backed by Mure Mountain (which locals say resembles a spreading tiger) and facing the Yarlung River (likened to a blue dragon). This placement followed ancient Tibetan traditions of kingship and harmony with nature.

## Site Layout and Key Tombs

The complex covers a large area of the valley floor, with about nine identifiable major tombs (though historical records mention up to twenty-one). All mounds are truncated earth pyramids, originally square, now softened by erosion into round hills. Their size is staggering: the largest measures over 100 meters on a side and rises 30 meters above the plain.

### The Tomb of Songtsen Gampo

The most visited and most recognizable tomb belongs to Songtsen Gampo. Unlike the others, its flat summit holds a small temple, the Songtsen Lhakhang, built in later centuries (likely during the revival of Buddhism). Pilgrims and visitors climb the earthen mound to enter the temple and pray. Inside, statues of Songtsen Gampo and his wives, including Princess Wencheng, are venerated.

- **Key features:** The temple is simple, whitewashed, with faded murals. The view from the top stretches across the entire valley to the Yarlung River.
- **What you can see:** Only the exterior. The actual burial chamber, if it exists, has never been excavated. Legends speak of an underground palace filled with gold and jewels, but these remain unconfirmed.
- **Nearby relics:** In front of the tomb stand a pair of ancient stone lions (now headless) and a stele with inscriptions from the Tubo period. These are among the only surviving pre-Buddhist stone carvings in Tibet.

### Other Recognizable Tombs

- **Tomb of Mangsong Mangtsen:** The 35th king, located slightly south. It is smaller but well defined.
- **Tomb of Trisong Detsen:** The 38th king, a patron of Buddhism who invited Padmasambhava to Tibet. His mound is often marked by prayer flags left by devotees.
- **Tomb of Tridu Songtsen:** The 36th king, with a particularly steep profile.

The site is not fenced, and visitors can walk freely among the mounds. However, climbing is discouraged on some mounds to prevent further erosion. Stick to defined paths where possible.

## Practical Information for Visiting

### Location and Altitude

The tombs are located in Qonggyai County (also spelled Qiongjie), about 30 km southwest of Tsedang (the main city of Shannan). Geographic coordinates: 29.0184° N, 91.6789° E.

- **Altitude:** Approximately 3,580 meters (source) to 3,700 meters (FAQ). Most visitors experience altitude effects at this elevation. The site is at a lower elevation than Lhasa (3,650 m), but still requires acclimatization.

### Best Seasons for Travel

The best times to visit are **spring (April–May), summer (June–August), and autumn (September–October)**. Winters are cold and windy, and the site offers little shelter. Summer brings occasional rain but the valley is green. Autumn offers clear skies and dramatic light for photography.

### How to Get There

- **From Tsedang:** Hire a private car or join a tour. The drive takes 30–40 minutes via the Qonggyai road. Many tour operators include this site in a day loop with Yumbulagang Palace and Changzhu Monastery.
- **By public transport:** A local bus runs from Tsedang to Qonggyai town, but from the town you would need to walk or hitchhike the last few kilometers. Hiring a driver is strongly recommended.
- **Self-drive:** If you have a vehicle with a Tibet Travel Permit, you can drive from Tsedang. Parking is available near the main entrance.

### Tickets and Opening Hours

As of the time of writing, no verified ticket prices or opening hours are available in source data. The site is reported to charge an entrance fee (likely 30–60 CNY). The site is open during daylight hours, but the small temple on Songtsen Gampo’s tomb may have restricted hours. Check with local authorities or your tour guide for current information.

### What to Bring

- **Sun protection:** Sunglasses, hat, sunscreen. The valley lacks shade.
- **Water and snacks:** No vendors on site.
- **Windbreaker:** The valley can be windy, especially in spring.
- **Altitude aids:** Slow walking. If you are new to high altitude, plan a rest day in Tsedang first.

## Who Should Visit and Who Should Skip

### This Site Is Ideal For:

- **History enthusiasts:** If you know the story of Songtsen Gampo and the Tubo Dynasty, seeing their burial grounds adds a concrete dimension. The site is more about historical significance than visual spectacle.
- **Photographers seeking unique landscapes:** The contrast between the brown earth mounds and the green valley, with the mountain backdrop, offers unusual compositions, especially in soft morning or late afternoon light.
- **Travelers wanting to go beyond monasteries:** If you have already visited Jokhang Temple and Potala Palace, this site provides a different, pre-Buddhist narrative.
- **Archaeology buffs:** The stone lions and stele are rare examples of early Tibetan stonework.

### Consider Skipping If:

- **You have limited time in Tibet:** Lhasa, Gyantse, and Everest Base Camp are higher priorities for most first-time visitors. Shannan sites like this one require a full day.
- **You are prone to altitude sickness:** The approach involves a long drive on a winding road, and the site requires walking on uneven terrain.
- **You expect grand temples or art:** There are no murals or ornate carvings here. The experience is stark and contemplative.
- **You have mobility issues:** The mounds are large, steep, and without paved paths. Climbing Songtsen Gampo's tomb is not wheelchair accessible.

## Photography Tips for the Tibetan King Tombs

- **Best light:** Early morning (sun behind you) and late afternoon (long shadows). Midday sun flattens the mounds.
- **Composition:** Use the mounds as foreground elements with the mountain and river in the background. The stone lions make good foreground subjects.
- **Drone restrictions:** Drones are generally prohibited at National Key Cultural Relic Protection Units without special permits. Do not fly without checking with the site office.
- **Interior photography:** Inside the Songtsen Lhakhang, photography is likely restricted. Respect signs and customs.
- **No tripod stands?** Tripods are usually allowed, but be careful of wind. Use a wide-angle lens to capture the scale.

## Safety and Altitude Considerations

At 3,600–3,700 meters, altitude sickness can affect anyone. Symptoms may include headache, nausea, and shortness of breath. Take the following precautions:

- **Acclimatize in Tsedang or Lhasa for at least two days before visiting.**
- **Drink plenty of water and avoid alcohol.**
- **Walk slowly; do not run or climb aggressively.**
- **If you feel unwell, descend to a lower elevation (the valley floor is about 3,500 m).**
- **Sunburn is a real threat; the UV index is very high.**

The site itself is safe: no steep cliffs or dangerous wildlife. However, the terrain is uneven, and the mounds are loose earth. Watch your footing.

## Frequently Asked Questions

**Where are the Tibetan King Tombs located?**  
They are located in Qonggyai County (Qiongjie), Shannan City, Tibet Autonomous Region, about 30 kilometers southwest of Tsedang.

**What is the altitude of the site?**  
The altitude is approximately 3,580 meters (source data) to 3,700 meters (FAQ). Take altitude precautions.

**Who is buried here?**  
The complex contains the tombs of Tubo Dynasty kings (Tsenpos), spanning from the 29th to the 40th generation, including the famous King Songtsen Gampo and potentially Princess Wencheng.

**Can I enter the tombs?**  
No. The underground burial chambers are not excavated or open to the public. Visitors can view the exterior mounds and visit the small temple built on top of Songtsen Gampo's tomb.

**How do I get there?**  
Best reached by hiring a car or joining a tour from Tsedang. The drive takes about 30–40 minutes. It is often visited in conjunction with Yumbulagang Palace and Changzhu Monastery.

**Are there guides available?**  
Private tour operators in Tsedang can provide English-speaking guides. At the site itself, you may find local guides offering informal tours, but this is not guaranteed.

**Is the site safe for solo travelers?**  
Yes, but the area is remote. It is advisable to travel with a hired car or a group. There are few facilities nearby.

**What should I wear?**  
Modest, comfortable clothing suitable for the season. No special religious attire is required. Bring a windproof layer, as the valley can be breezy.

**Can I bring food for a picnic?**  
Yes, but do not litter. There are no eating facilities on site.

## Final Thoughts

The Tibetan King Tombs offer a rare glimpse into Tibet’s imperial past before Buddhism became the dominant cultural force. They are not a highlight for every traveler, but for those with a deep interest in history, archaeology, or the ancient Silk Road connections, they are a meaningful stop. The silence of the valley, the imposing mounds, and the dusty stone lions create a contemplative atmosphere that lingers long after leaving.

Plan your visit carefully with respect for the altitude and the site’s fragile nature. Combine it with the nearby Yumbulagang Palace and Changzhu Monastery for a full day of Shannan’s heritage.