The Cellular Cities of Clay: Exploring the Lost Secrets of Piyang and Dongga

The Honeycomb on the Cliff

Hidden within the desolate and majestic clay forests of the Ngari Prefecture lies a massive cluster of ancient ruins that predates even the famous Guge Kingdom capital in Tsaparang. While the user query mentions Pulan, it is important to note that the Piyang and Dongga Ruins are actually located in Zhada County (Zanda), approximately 40 kilometers north of the county seat, at an altitude of about 3,800 meters. This site is often described as a "Cellular City" because of the thousands of caves carved into the cliff faces, resembling a giant honeycomb. Unlike the singular grandeur of the Potala Palace, Piyang and Dongga represent a sprawling, integrated complex of Buddhist temples, castle remains, residential caves, and stupas that blend seamlessly with the yellow ochre earth of the clay forest. It is currently the largest known group of Buddhist caves in Xizang (Tibet) and offers a profound glimpse into the early civilization of Western Tibet.

A Repository of Ancient Art

1.The site is divided into two main areas: Dongga and Piyang, separated by a hill but historically connected. Dongga is renowned worldwide for its exquisite murals. Discovered later than the Guge capital, the murals here are older and possess a unique artistic style that fuses influences from Kashmir, Nepal, and local Tibetan traditions. In the three main caves (Cave 1, 2, and 3), visitors can witness breathtaking paintings of celestial maidens (Apsaras), complex Mandalas, and Buddha figures using distinct mineral colors like azurite blue and malachite green. These murals are celebrated for their vivid expressions, intricate clothing, and the depiction of a "universe" that reflects the cosmological views of that era. The artistic value here is often considered a "museum of murals" on the cliff, rivaling the famous Dunhuang caves in significance for Tibetan history.

The City of Caves

While Dongga is famous for art, Piyang is staggering for its scale of habitation. The cliff face at Piyang is densely packed with caves that once served as monks' cells, living quarters, and storage rooms. From a distance, the mountain looks like a massive anthill or beehive, recording the daily life and religious devotion of a lost civilization. At the top of the Piyang hill, one can find the ruins of ancient temples and the Gelin Tang (Gelin Thang) stupa forest. These stupas, made of earth, stand in rows, mimicking the natural shapes of the surrounding clay forest earth pillars, creating a solemn and mysterious atmosphere where nature and human faith are indistinguishable.

A Lost Kingdom's Legacy

Historically, these ruins are deeply tied to the Guge Kingdom (10th–17th century). Before the capital was firmly established at Tsaparang, this area was a crucial political and cultural center. The site documents the glorious rise of Buddhism in Western Tibet during the "Second Diffusion" period. Walking through the ruins, one can see traces of the "Old Tibetan" way of life—from the soot-blackened ceilings of residential caves to the ancient paths worn down by centuries of pilgrims and traders,. The site remains relatively undeveloped compared to other major attractions, offering a raw, silent, and deeply atmospheric experience for those willing to venture off the beaten path.