Paba Temple: A Nepalese-Style Gem in Jilong Tibet | Travel Guide

Introduction

Paba Temple (also known as Pakba Monastery or Palba Monastery) stands in the center of Jilong Town (Kyirong), Jilong County, Shigatse City, in the Tibet Autonomous Region. Unlike the flat-roofed, whitewashed monasteries that define the high plateau, Paba Temple rises in a four-story tower of stone and wood, crowned with golden finials and ringing with copper bells. Its architecture reflects the deep cultural exchange between Tibet and Nepal along the ancient Tub-Nepal Road.

Built in the 7th century around 637 AD under King Songtsen Gampo, Paba Temple is one of the twelve "demon-suppressing" temples constructed to pin down the limbs of a mythical supine demoness whose body was said to form the Tibetan landscape. This temple anchors her right foot. Its founding is linked to the Nepalese princess Bhrikuti, who brought with her artisans, crafts, and a sandalwood statue of Avalokiteshvara known as Wati Sangpo.

This article provides a comprehensive overview of Paba Temple for travelers planning a visit to western Tibet, with practical guidance on architecture, legends, art, and the realities of traveling to this remote valley.

Why Visit Paba Temple?

Who This Temple Suits

Paba Temple appeals to travelers interested in Tibetan Buddhist history, cross-cultural architecture, and lesser-visited sacred sites. It suits those who have already seen the major monasteries of Lhasa and Shigatse and seek a quieter, more atmospheric experience away from crowds. The temple’s location in Jilong Valley—a lush, forested corridor at a relatively low altitude—makes it a good acclimatization stop for travelers entering Tibet from Nepal via the Gyirong Port.

When to Go and When to Skip

Best seasons: Summer (June to August) and autumn (September to October). Summer brings green forests and moderate temperatures, though afternoon showers are common. Autumn offers clear skies and stable weather, ideal for photography and the drive along the rugged Nepal-Tibet highway.

When to skip: Winter (November to March) can be bitterly cold, and snow may close the road from Shigatse to Jilong. Heavy rains in early summer occasionally trigger landslides on the approach roads.

Who Should Skip

Travelers with limited time in Tibet may not find Paba Temple essential—it requires a dedicated detour from the main Lhasa–Shigatse–Everest Base Camp route. Those primarily interested in grand monastery complexes like Tashilhunpo may prefer to skip this relatively small site. Also, visitors who struggle with altitude even at 2,800m should note that the surrounding mountains rise quickly; the drive to Jilong involves passes over 5,000m.

Architecture: A Nepalese Tower in the Himalayas

The Four-Story Pavilion

The most striking feature of Paba Temple is its form. Instead of the typical Tibetan assembly hall (dukhang) with a flat roof and courtyard, the main building rises as a square tower with step-like tiers. Each floor shrinks as it ascends, creating a pyramidal silhouette that resembles a Nepalese pagoda-style temple.

The exterior is built of stone and rammed earth, with wooden balconies and intricately carved eaves. The roof is covered with copper sheets painted gold, and at each corner hang small copper bells that ring in the wind. This design is rare in Tibet, appearing only at a handful of sites built under Newar influence, including the Jokhang Temple in Lhasa (which also shows Nepalese features).

Cultural Fusion in Stone

Princess Bhrikuti arrived from the Kathmandu Valley in the 7th century, accompanied by Nepalese architects and craftsmen. Their influence is visible in the wood carving: the brackets supporting the eaves are carved with floral and geometric patterns similar to those found at Nyatapola Temple in Bhaktapur. The stone masonry uses a technique of interlocking blocks without mortar, a method common in Newar construction.

Inside, the layout follows a Tibetan circuit (kora) path around the central sanctuary. The ground floor houses the main shrine; upper floors were historically used for storage or as living quarters for monks. The tower form allows natural light to reach the interior through small windows that also aid ventilation—a practical solution for a valley that sees heavy summer rainfall.

Contrast with Tibetan Monasteries

Standard Tibetan monasteries like Tashilhunpo in Shigatse are sprawling complexes with whitewashed walls and golden roofs over assembly halls. Paba Temple’s vertical emphasis and tiered shape make it look more like a fortress or a castle, though it never had a military function. The lack of a large courtyard means that circumambulation (kora) occurs around the entire building, passing through narrow lanes that give a sense of intimacy.

The Legend of the Supine Demoness

The Geomantic Origin

According to Tibetan Buddhist tradition, when King Songtsen Gampo decided to build the Jokhang Temple in Lhasa, the work was repeatedly destroyed by supernatural forces. The king consulted his Chinese wife, Princess Wencheng, who performed geomancy (feng shui). She saw the topography of Tibet as the form of a giant demoness lying on her back.

Her head was in the east, her limbs spread across the land. To subdue her, twelve temples were built at key pressure points across her body: four at her shoulders and hips, four at her elbows and knees, and four at her hands and feet.

Paba Temple is one of the "Runon" temples—those built to pin the right foot. The others include Kawa Lung Temple in the south and a temple in the north. This legend gives Paba Temple a cosmological role in taming the landscape for Buddhism.

Princess Bhrikuti’s Legacy

The Nepalese princess is traditionally regarded as an incarnation of Green Tara. Her dowry included a sandalwood statue of Avalokiteshvara that had self-arisen from a tree at the border between Tibet and Nepal. This statue, called Wati Sangpo, is said to have eleven faces and a thousand arms. King Songtsen Gampo built Paba Temple specifically to house this sacred image.

Over the centuries, the statue was moved between Paba Temple and the Potala Palace in Lhasa, and its current exact location is debated. However, a replica or the original is venerated at Paba Temple, and it remains the temple’s spiritual heart.

Ancient Murals and Frescoes

A Blend of Artistic Traditions

Inside the temple, surviving murals depict Buddhist deities, mandalas, and scenes from the life of the Buddha. The style is a fusion of Kashmiri, Nepalese, and Tibetan traditions:

• Kashmiri influence appears in the delicate, elongated figures and the use of green backgrounds.
• Nepalese influence shows in the ornate jewelry and floral motifs.
• Tibetan elements are present in the color palette (deep reds, blues, gold) and the composition of thangka-like scenes.

The murals date from the original 7th-century construction and from later restorations. Some frescoes have been damaged by moisture and smoke from butter lamps. Photography inside is typically restricted, and the dim light makes it hard to appreciate details. A guide may illuminate specific sections with a flashlight.

Preservation and Access

The murals are partially protected by glass or wooden covers. Because the temple is still active, visitors should respect prayer times and avoid touching the walls. The temple custodians may allow access to upper floors only during certain hours.

Practical Travel Information

Altitude and Acclimatization

Paba Temple sits at approximately 2,850 meters (9,350 feet) according to most sources, though some database entries list 3,836 meters. This discrepancy is significant: Jilong Town’s valley floor is around 2,800m, so the lower figure is more likely. Travelers coming directly from Lhasa (3,650m) will find the drop in altitude refreshing, but the drive from Shigatse (3,836m) involves crossing the Gyirong Pass at 5,200m.

That pass exposure can cause altitude sickness even if the destination is lower. Plan a gradual ascent and allow a night in Shigatse or Tingri before crossing the pass.

Getting There

• From Shigatse: About 500 km southwest via China National Highway 219 and then county roads. The drive takes 8–10 hours, depending on road conditions and border checks. The route passes through Lhatse and then turns south toward Jilong.
• From Kathmandu: The Gyirong Port is the closest border crossing to Jilong (about 160 km). However, independent travel across this border is restricted; you need a Tibet Travel Permit and a group tour if traveling from Nepal.
• Local transport: Within Jilong County, shared minibuses connect the town of Zongga (county seat) to Jilong Town. In Jilong Town, the temple is a short walk from any guesthouse.

Tickets and Opening Hours

Entry is reportedly free or asks for a small donation for incense. This is not officially confirmed; policies can change without notice. Assume that the temple is open daily during daylight hours (roughly 9:00 AM to 6:00 PM). No official website exists to verify.

Photography and Conduct

• Inside: Photography of murals is usually prohibited. Flash is never allowed. Ask permission for any photos of monks or pilgrims.
• Outside: The tower and its gold roof make excellent subjects, especially in late afternoon light.
• Offerings: Carry a few small denominations (yuan) for contribution boxes.
• Dress: Modest clothing covering shoulders and knees.
• Circumambulation: Walk clockwise around the temple, as is customary.

Safety and Practical Considerations

Road Conditions

The final stretch of road to Jilong passes through narrow valleys prone to rockfalls. After heavy rain, check with local authorities. A 4x4 vehicle is recommended, though sedan cars can manage in dry seasons.

Health Precautions

Altitude at the temple itself is moderate, but the nearest hospital with resources for altitude sickness is in Shigatse, several hours away. Carry medication (Diamox) and oxygen canisters if you are prone to symptoms. Jilong Town has a basic clinic for minor issues.

Permits

Most foreign travelers to Tibet require:

• Tibet Travel Permit (TTP)
• Alien’s Travel Permit (for areas beyond Lhasa)
• Military Permit (for border regions near Nepal)

Jilong County is a border area; permits are mandatory. Arrange them through a registered travel agency at least two weeks in advance.

FAQ

Where is Paba Temple located?
In the center of Jilong Town (Kyirong), Jilong County, Shigatse City, Tibet Autonomous Region, near the border with Nepal.

How old is the temple?
It dates back to the 7th century (around 637 AD), built during the reign of King Songtsen Gampo.

What is unique about its architecture?
Unlike typical Tibetan flat-roofed monasteries, Paba Temple features a Nepalese tower style with four stories, shrinking tiers, and a golden roof, resembling a pagoda or castle.

Do I need a ticket to visit?
The temple is generally free, or it asks for a small donation. Policies may change—confirm locally.

What is the altitude?
Approximately 2,850 meters (9,350 feet), though some sources list 3,836 meters. The lower figure is consistent with Jilong Valley’s actual elevation.

Can I take photos inside?
Photography of murals is usually not allowed. Outside photography is permitted.

How do I get to Jilong?
From Shigatse, drive southwest via Highway 219 (8–10 hours). From Kathmandu, enter through the Gyirong Port with proper permits.

What is the best time to visit?
Summer (June–August) and autumn (September–October). Avoid winter and heavy monsoon periods.

Is the temple connected to the Supine Demoness legend?
Yes. It was built to pin down the right foot of the demoness, as part of the twelve geomantic temples of Songtsen Gampo.

Where is the Wati Sangpo statue now?
The original has been moved between Paba Temple and the Potala Palace. The current location is ambiguous. A sacred image remains at Paba Temple.

Conclusion

Paba Temple offers a rare glimpse into the architectural and religious fusion that shaped early Tibetan Buddhism. Its Nepalese form, demon-suppressing legend, and ancient murals make it a rewarding stop for travelers willing to venture off the main highway. Jilong Valley itself is a beautiful region known as the "Back Garden of the Himalayas." Combined with the temple’s history, the visit becomes a journey into the cultural crossroads of the Tibet–Nepal borderlands.

Plan carefully, respect local customs, and verify current conditions before departure. The rewards of this quiet, uncommercialized site are substantial for those who make the effort.