Yongchang Ancient City Guide: The Lost Roman Legion Site in Gansu

Perched at the edge of the Gobi Desert and backed by the snow-covered Qilian Mountains, Yongchang Ancient City (永昌古城) in Gansu Province remains one of the Hexi Corridor’s least commercialized historic settlements. While other ancient towns along the Silk Road have transformed into souvenir bazaars, Yongchang still feels like a place where time passes slowly. Here, Ming dynasty gate towers overlook narrow alleys of mud-brick homes, and locals go about their day under the same ramparts that once protected caravans headed west.

Two things set Yongchang apart: its claim to be the possible home of a lost Roman legion—a story that has intrigued historians and travelers for decades—and its inclusion in the UNESCO World Heritage listing for the Silk Road. This guide covers everything you need to plan an informed, thoughtful visit: what to see, when to go, how to navigate the altitude and dry climate, and how to separate legend from fact.

Why Visit Yongchang Ancient City (and Who Might Prefer to Skip)

Who It Suits

Yongchang is ideal for travelers who want an authentic, non-commercialized historical atmosphere. It suits:

• Silk Road history enthusiasts – The city walls, Bell and Drum Tower, and the UNESCO designation provide tangible links to the ancient trade routes.
• Cultural and anthropology travelers – The living ancient streets offer a rare opportunity to see how traditional courtyard life persists in a modernizing region.
• Photographers seeking contrast – The mix of weathered earth walls, vibrant Ming dynasty woodwork, and distant snow peaks creates compelling compositions.
• Travelers intrigued by the Roman legion theory – Even if the evidence is debated, the story adds a layer of mystery that enriches a visit.

Who Should Skip

Yongchang is not a polished tourist town. It may disappoint:

• Travelers expecting extensive English signage or guided tours in English – Most interpretive material is in Chinese. Independent research and translation apps are essential.
• Those seeking nightlife or entertainment – Evenings in Yongchang are quiet. There are no major shows or bar streets.
• Tourists pressed for time – While the ancient city can be explored in half a day, the surrounding Liqian Culture Park, Beihaiyan Wetlands, and Red Army Museum require a full day. Rushed visits may feel unrewarding.
• Visitors with mobility issues – The ancient streets are uneven, and the Bell Tower interior (if open) requires climbing steep wooden stairs.

Key Highlights of Yongchang Ancient City

The Legend of the Lost Roman Legion at Liqian Village

The story that gave Yongchang international attention is the theory that a group of Roman prisoners of war, taken after the Battle of Carrhae in 53 BCE, eventually settled near Yongchang and founded the town of Liqian. According to this hypothesis, the Romans were resettled by the Han dynasty in the frontier region that is now Liqian Village, about 10 kilometers southwest of Yongchang town.

While no definitive archaeological proof has been found—DNA studies have been inconclusive, and classical texts are ambiguous—the legend is actively preserved by the local government. The Liqian Culture Park contains statues, sculptures, and an exhibit that presents the theory alongside local folk traditions. Some residents in Liqian Village have been observed with lighter hair and greenish eyes, though these traits are not unusual across the Hexi Corridor due to centuries of Silk Road admixture.

What to do there: Walk through the park, visit the small exhibition hall, and if possible, arrange a visit with a local guide who can explain the oral traditions. The site is free to enter. Note that the park is small and may feel underwhelming if you have read elaborate online claims.

The Ming Bell and Drum Tower (Zhonggu Lou)

The architectural centerpiece of Yongchang is the Bell and Drum Tower, originally built in the Ming dynasty and reconstructed during the Qing. It stands at the exact intersection of the old city’s north-south and east-west axes. Unlike the more famous towers in Xi’an or Zhangye, this one is rarely crowded.

The three-story wooden structure features tiered eaves, painted brackets, and a bronze bell that is still rung on special occasions. From the top floor (if public access is permitted at the time of your visit), you can look out over the ancient city's grid layout and see the Qilian Mountains rising in the south. The tower is illuminated at night, making it a good subject for evening photography.

Note: Climbing the tower involves steep stairs. There is no elevator. Check with local authorities or your hotel about current opening status, as restoration work may occasionally close the upper levels.

Living Ancient Streets: Non-Commercialized Atmosphere

One of Yongchang’s strongest appeals is its lack of hawker stalls and chain souvenir shops. The main streets are lined with small eateries, hardware stores, and traditional Chinese pharmacies that serve local residents. This is not a pedestrian-only tourist zone; motorbikes and electric scooters share the road.

Wandering the residential alleyways off the main thoroughfare reveals older courtyard houses with timber doors and decorative screens. Many families have lived in these homes for generations. Travelers should be respectful: avoid peering into private courtyards or taking photos of people without permission.

Beihaiyan Wetlands: An Oasis with Buddhist Temples

About 3 kilometers north of the ancient city walls, Beihaiyan Wetland Park provides a sharp contrast to the dry landscape. This protected area surrounds a series of high-altitude springs that feed small lakes and marshes. Walking paths wind past reeds and willows, and the air is noticeably cooler before noon.

Within the park stands Jinchuan Temple, a Buddhist complex with a history that predates the Ming dynasty. The temple’s white pagoda and tiled roofs are set against the wetlands, making it a quiet spot for reflection. The park is free to enter, and the wetland section is kept relatively natural—you are likely to see herons and other waterbirds.

UNESCO Silk Road Heritage: Remains of the City Wall

As part of the UNESCO serial designation "Silk Road: the Routes Network of Chang’an-Tianshan Corridor," Yongchang Ancient City preserves sections of its original Ming and Qing dynasty rammed-earth walls. These walls once formed a rectangle about 1.2 kilometers on each side.

Today, several stretches remain, particularly along the northern and western edges of the old city. They are not reinforced with brick facing, so they appear as massive mounds of earth—a reminder of the ephemeral nature of frontier fortifications.

Walking along the base of the earthen wall, you can find occasional watchtower foundations. There are no barriers preventing you from approaching the wall, but climbing on the fragile earth is discouraged. These sections are not illuminated at night.

Red West Army Yongchang Museum

For those interested in 20th-century Chinese revolutionary history, the Red West Army Yongchang Museum (located within the county town, near the Bell Tower) documents the Western Route Army’s campaign in the Hexi Corridor in the 1930s. The exhibits include weapons, uniforms, and personal artifacts of the Red Army soldiers who fought and died in the area.

Entry is free, but the museum may be closed on Mondays (common in Chinese public museums). English descriptions are minimal.

Practical Information for Visiting Yongchang Ancient City

Best Time to Visit

The source data indicates spring and autumn as the best seasons. Late summer (September-October) offers mild temperatures and clear views of the Qilian Mountains. Spring (April-May) can be windy, with occasional dust storms. Winters are cold, with average lows around –10°C (14°F), and many outdoor attractions are less inviting. Avoid Chinese public holidays (especially National Day Golden Week, October 1–7) when domestic tourism spikes.

Getting There

Yongchang County is located in the northern part of the Hexi Corridor, about 60 kilometers east of Jinchang city and 80 kilometers west of Wuwei.

• By train: Jinchang station (on the Lanzhou–Urumqi high-speed rail line) is the nearest rail stop. From Jinchang, take a bus or taxi to Yongchang County (about 45 minutes by road).
• By bus: Long-distance buses from Lanzhou (5–6 hours) or Wuwei (1.5 hours) stop at Yongchang bus station. Buses from Zhangye also run daily.
• By car: The G30 Lianguo Expressway passes near Yongchang. Take the Yongchang exit and follow county roads into the town center. Parking is available on the streets near the Bell Tower.

Altitude and Safety

Yongchang’s altitude is approximately 1,980 meters (6,500 feet). While not considered a high plateau, this elevation can affect visitors arriving directly from sea-level locations. Light-headedness, shortness of breath, and mild dehydration are possible. To minimize risk:

• Spend the first day in Jinchang or Wuwei (also around 1,500–1,800 meters) to acclimate.
• Drink plenty of water—the air is extremely dry.
• Avoid heavy meals and alcohol on arrival day.
• If you have a history of altitude-related issues, consult your doctor before traveling.

Sunlight is intense due to the thin, clear air. Wear sunscreen, a hat, and sunglasses even in autumn. The region can experience sudden afternoon wind gusts; carry a windbreaker.

Ticket and Opening Information

• Ancient city streets: Free to enter. No ticket required.
• Bell and Drum Tower: Typically free, but donation or small fee may be requested for climbing. Hours vary.
• Liqian Culture Park: Free.
• Beihaiyan Wetlands: Free.
• Red West Army Museum: Free.

Note: No precise opening hours were available in source data. Most attractions in small Chinese county towns operate roughly 8:30 AM – 5:30 PM, with lunch break closures (12:00–2:00 PM) common. It is wise to call ahead if you are making a special trip.

Photography Tips for Yongchang Ancient City

• Bell Tower at sunrise: The eastern face catches the first light. Use a wide-angle lens to capture the entire structure against the mountains.
• Mud walls in late afternoon: Warm golden light emphasizes the texture of rammed earth.
• Beihaiyan Wetlands: Best shot from the temple courtyard looking over the reeds. A polarizing filter reduces glare off the water.
• Liqian Culture Park: The statuary is best photographed with the Qilian Mountains in the background. Use a telephoto lens to compress the perspective.
• Street life: Candid shots of merchants and elders require sensitivity. A small camera or smartphone is less intimidating.

Frequently Asked Questions

Where exactly is Yongchang Ancient City located?

It is located in Yongchang County, Jinchang City, Gansu Province, within the historic Hexi Corridor. The ancient city site is centered on the Bell and Drum Tower.

What is the significance of the "Lost Roman Legion" here?

Local history and some scholars suggest that Roman prisoners of war were resettled in the Yongchang area during the Han dynasty, founding the town of Liqian. The theory is supported by a few classical texts and cultural loanwords, but it remains unproven. The legend is a major draw for curious travelers.

Is Yongchang Ancient City part of a UNESCO World Heritage site?

Yes, it is a key site within the "Silk Road: the Routes Network of Chang’an-Tianshan Corridor" UNESCO designation. The ancient city walls and the overall urban layout are recognized under this listing.

What is the best time to visit?

The ideal time is from May to October, particularly in late summer and early autumn when the weather is mild and the nearby Qilian Mountains are most visible.

Can I see Red Army history in the city?

Yes, the Red West Army Yongchang Museum provides detailed exhibits on the revolutionary history of the region in the 1930s.

Are there any entrance fees?

No, all major attractions in Yongchang Ancient City are free to enter. Donations or small fees may apply for climbing the Bell Tower.

What should I pack for a visit?

Bring layers, sun protection, sturdy walking shoes, a reusable water bottle, and a translation app or phrasebook. English speakers are rare outside of hotels.

Final Thoughts on Yongchang Ancient City

Yongchang Ancient City offers a genuine slice of Silk Road history without the gloss of commercial restoration. The Roman legion story adds an unusual layer of myth, but the real appeal lies in the quiet streets, the massive earth walls, and the daily life that continues within them. For travelers willing to step off the main tourist circuit in Gansu, Yongchang rewards patience with a rare atmosphere of living antiquity.