The Stone Fortress of the Jiarong People: Xisuo Residences and the Legacy of the Tusi

The "Living Fossil" of Jiarong Architecture

1.Located in Zhuokeji: Town, Maerkang City (Barkam), within the Aba Tibetan and Qiang Autonomous Prefecture of Sichuan Province, Xisuo Residences (Xisuo Minju) stands as a stunning example of traditional Jiarong Tibetan architecture. Situated on the west bank of the Suomo River at an altitude of approximately 2,700 meters, this village faces the majestic Zhuokeji Tusi Official Manor across the water. Unlike the imposing manor which represents the ruling class, Xisuo offers a glimpse into the lives of the common people who historically served the Tusi (chieftain) as farmers and servants. The village name "Xisuo" translates from the Tibetan language to "the village on the west side," indicating its geographical relationship to the Tusi's seat of power. Today, it is celebrated as a "Living Fossil of the Suomo Valley," preserving a way of life and an architectural style that has endured for centuries,.

A Labyrinth of Stone and Wood

2.The most striking feature of Xisuo: Residences is its unique architectural layout. The village is composed of dozens of stone blockhouses (Diaolou) built from local stone slices and yellow mud without the use of a single nail. These three-to-four-story structures are densely packed and ingeniously interconnected. The flat roofs serve as drying grounds for highland barley and are linked together, allowing villagers to move across the entire settlement without ever touching the ground—a design born from ancient defensive necessities. Below, the narrow, winding alleys form a complex labyrinth paved with green flagstones. Walking through these deep corridors, visitors are surrounded by walls that keep the homes warm in winter and cool in summer, adorned with vibrant window frames and the sacred White Stone placed on roof corners to ward off evil,.

A Hearth of Culture and History

Xisuo is not just a collection of buildings; it is a vibrant community where the "fire pit" (Guozhuang) culture thrives. Inside the homes, the fire pit is the heart of family life, burning year-round as a source of warmth and a place for cooking and socializing. Visitors are often welcomed into these homes to sit by the fire, drink butter tea, and listen to elders recount stories of the past. The village also holds significant Red Army history; during the Long March in 1935, the Red Army passed through here, finding support from the local villagers who provided guides and food. This bond is still celebrated today, adding a layer of revolutionary heritage to the village's ancient roots. During festivals like the Tibetan New Year or the Harvest Festival, the village comes alive with the rhythmic beats of the Guozhuang dance, where men and women circle the bonfire in song, showcasing the warm hospitality and artistic talents of the Jiarong people,,.

A Portrait of Harmony

3.The visual beauty of Xisuo: Residences changes with the seasons, offering a feast for photographers. In spring, the surrounding valley is dotted with flowers; summer brings lush greenery that contrasts with the stone walls; autumn transforms the landscape into a canvas of golden poplar trees and red leaves; and winter coats the village in pristine snow, enhancing its castle-like appearance. The village forms a "Golden Triangle" of culture with the adjacent Zhuokeji Tusi Manor and the nearby Changlie Monastery, representing the historical unity of the people, the ruler, and religion. Whether you are wandering the maze-like alleys, tasting local "Zhajiu" (barley wine), or simply gazing at the snow-capped mountains from a rooftop, Xisuo Residences offers a profound connection to the "Highland Aesthetics" of the Sichuan-Tibet corridor,,.