The River Flowing from the Elephant's Mouth: A Journey to the Cradle of Guge Civilization along the Xiangquan River

The Sacred Source in the West

In the vast and desolate highlands of the Ngari Prefecture in Tibet, four great rivers spiral out from the sacred Mount Kailash (Gang Rinpoche) region like the spokes of a wheel, flowing in four directions. Among them, flowing to the west is the Xiangquan River (Elephant Spring River), known in Tibetan as Langqin Zangbo. Legend holds that this river gushes from a mountain rock shaped like an elephant's trunk drinking water, located west of the holy Lake Manasarovar and the "Ghost Lake" Rakshastal in Pulan County (Burang). As one of the four sacred rivers in the Ngari region, it carries the melted snow from the Gangdise Mountains, traversing the arid plateau before eventually joining the Indus River system and flowing into the Arabian Sea. The river is not just a geographical marvel but a spiritual artery, revered by followers of Tibetan Buddhism, Bon, and Hinduism alike, symbolizing the western gate of the mandala of the universe,,.

The Cradle of Lost Civilizations

1.The Xiangquan: River valley is the fertile womb that nurtured the most glorious ancient civilizations of Western Tibet. It was here, along the banks of this life-giving river, that the mysterious Zhang Zhung (Xiangxiong) Civilization flourished thousands of years ago, followed by the majestic Guge Kingdom (10th–17th centuries). As the river winds through the rugged terrain, particularly as it enters Zanda County (Zhada), it passes by the crumbling yet magnificent ruins of the Guge Kingdom and the Toling Monastery. These historical sites stand on the earthen cliffs overlooking the river, silent witnesses to a bygone era when this valley was the political, economic, and cultural center of the region. The river provided the water and agricultural base that allowed these civilizations to thrive in an otherwise harsh environment, making it a true "Mother River" of Ngari,,.

A Landscape of Earth and Water

2.The visual spectacle of the Xiangquan: River is defined by its dramatic contrast with the surrounding landscape. As it cuts through the Zanda Earth Forest (Clay Forest), the river appears as a vibrant ribbon of turquoise or jade green (depending on the season) winding through a world of golden-brown, castle-like soil formations. This geological wonder, formed by millions of years of erosion from the river and the wind, creates a scene that is both desolate and stunningly beautiful. The towering "earth forests"—shaped like pagodas, warriors, and palaces—stand guard over the flowing water. At sunset, the golden light bathes the earth forest and the river in a surreal glow, creating a photographer's paradise where the softness of the water meets the ruggedness of the earth,,.

An Ecological Lifeline

Despite the arid surroundings, the Xiangquan River valley supports a unique high-altitude ecosystem. In the river basins, particularly around Zanda, the lower altitude and water supply create a microclimate suitable for agriculture and greenery, forming oases in the desert-like landscape. The riverbanks are dotted with patches of green farmland, willow trees, and seabuckthorn bushes, providing a habitat for local wildlife and a lifeline for the Tibetan villages scattered along its course. Driving along the river, travelers can witness the harmonious coexistence of nature and humanity, where ancient stupas and Mani stones sit amidst the natural grandeur, offering a profound sense of history and spirituality,.