The Princess's Garden on the Water: Wangfei Island and the Legend of the Daughter Kingdom

The "Back Garden" of the Mosuo Princess

1.Located in the southwest waters of Lugu: Lake, spanning the border between Yanyuan County (Sichuan) and Ninglang County (Yunnan), Wangfei Island (Princess Island), also known as Liwubi Island or Xiewae Island, is a place of profound tranquility and romance. Floating like a jade gem on the shimmering surface of the lake at an altitude of 2,690 meters, the island covers an area of about 0.15 square kilometers. It is celebrated as the "Private Back Garden of the Mosuo Princess" and a spiritual sanctuary within the "Eastern Daughter Kingdom." Unlike the bustling shores, Wangfei Island retains a serene isolation, surrounded by crystal-clear waters and accessible only by the traditional pig trough boats (Zhucao Chuan). It serves as a core attraction of the Lugu Lake Scenic Area, offering a perfect blend of natural island scenery and the mysterious matrilineal culture of the Mosuo people,.

A Legend of Love and Homesickness

The island's evocative name derives from a historical marriage alliance during the Qing Dynasty. According to legend, during the reign of Emperor Qianlong, the Mu Tusi (chieftain) of Lijiang, Yunnan, married his daughter, Princess Axiao, to the Ling Tusi of Yanyuan, Sichuan, to consolidate power. Although married into a noble family, Princess Axiao missed her homeland deeply. She often took a canoe to this small island to live, building a residence that became known as the "Wangfei Palace." Here, she would play the mouth harp and sing folk songs to express her longing and emotions, indirectly promoting the romantic "Walking Marriage" customs of the region. Today, visitors can explore the ruins of the Wangfei's Former Residence and traditional Mosuo log cabins (Mukeleng), which have been preserved or restored to reflect the architectural wisdom of the era,,.

The Purest Sample of the Daughter Kingdom

Wangfei Island is a living museum of the Mosuo matrilineal society, often called the last "Kingdom of Women." The island's inhabitants, many of whom are descendants of the princess's entourage or local Mosuo branches, maintain the traditional matrilineal family structure where property and lineage are passed down through the mother. The island features distinct "Flower Towers"—the private rooms for adult Mosuo women—which are central to the "Walking Marriage" custom where men visit at night and return to their mother's home in the morning. This tradition emphasizes love and freedom over material binding. Walking through the island's paths, visitors can see the sacred hearths (fire pits) that burn year-round in the main halls, symbolizing the continuity of the family and the warmth of the home,,.

A Sanctuary of Nature and Spirit

Ecologically, Wangfei Island is a "Garden on the Lake." The island is lush with ancient trees and surrounded by reeds and water plants. In summer, a belt of lotus flowers blooms around the island, filling the air with fragrance, while in autumn, the golden reeds sway in the wind. It is also a haven for migratory birds; in winter, thousands of red-billed gulls and other water birds flock here, adding life to the tranquil waters. Culturally, the island is a focal point for the Mosuo Turning the Lake Festival (around Lunar July 25th). During this time, worshippers circle the island in boats to pay homage to the Gemu Goddess, praying for harvest and love. The island's peak offers a breathtaking panoramic view of Lugu Lake and the sacred Gemu Goddess Mountain, creating a spiritual connection between the sky, the water, and the people,.