The Devil's Mirror: Seling Tso, Tibet's New Largest Lake and the Kingdom of Wildlife

The Ocean on the Roof of the World

1.Deep in the heart of the Qiangtang: Plateau in Northern Tibet, there lies a vast expanse of water that defies imagination. This is Seling Tso (Siling Co), a lake so immense that standing on its shores feels like standing at the edge of an ocean. Located west of Nagqu City, spanning Baingoin and Xainza counties, Seling Tso sits at an altitude of 4,530 meters. In recent years, due to geological changes and glacial melting, its surface area has expanded to 2,391 square kilometers, surpassing the famous Namtso to become the largest lake in Tibet and the second-largest saltwater lake in China. Unlike the spiritual tranquility often associated with "Holy Lakes," Seling Tso exudes a raw, wild, and overwhelming power, often described as a "photosensitive" miracle because its water changes color dramatically—from turquoise to deep sapphire—depending on the sunlight and angle.

The Legend of the Devil's Lake

The name "Seling Tso" translates to "Seling's Devil Lake" in Tibetan. According to ancient folklore, Seling was a powerful demon who lived west of Lhasa and devoured human lives daily. The great master Padmasambhava (Guru Rinpoche) hunted the demon down, forcing him to flee to this vast lake in the northern wilderness. Padmasambhava subdued the demon and commanded him to stay within the lake forever to confess his sins and never harm living beings again. Thus, the lake took the name of the demon. This legend gives the lake a mysterious and somewhat fearsome reputation compared to the benevolent "Holy Lakes" like Namtso or Yamdrok. It is not traditionally a place for pilgrimage or "kora" (circumambulation) but is revered for its majestic and untamable nature.

A Kingdom for Wildlife

2.Seling Tso is the core of the Seling: Tso National Nature Reserve. It is not just a body of water but a thriving ecosystem and a paradise for high-altitude wildlife. The area is renowned as a "Kingdom of Birds." It is a crucial breeding ground for the Black-necked Crane, a National First-Class Protected Species and the only crane species that lives and breeds on the plateau. From late spring to summer, these "Highland Fairies" can be seen dancing along the marshy shores. Beyond birds, the surrounding grasslands are home to large populations of Tibetan antelopes (Chiru), Tibetan gazelles, and wild yaks. Driving along the lakeside road offers a safari-like experience where nature remains the undisputed master of the land.

The Satellite Lakes

Seling Tso is not alone; it is the center of a massive cluster of lakes. As the main lake expanded, it connected with several satellite lakes, forming a giant water system. One notable neighbor is Cuo'e Lake (Bird Island), known for its distinct bird islands where thousands of brown-headed gulls and bar-headed geese nest. The contrast between the deep, dark blue of Seling Tso and the vibrant green or turquoise of its satellite lakes creates a visual feast for photographers. The landscape here is characterized by the vast, open silence of the Qiangtang, where the boundary between the blue water and the blue sky often blurs into infinity.