Reting Monastery: Ancient Cypress Forest & Kadam School Origin

Reting Monastery (Radeng Gompa, 热振寺) sits about 150 kilometers north of Lhasa in Linzhou County (Lhundrup), Tibet. Unlike the crowded Barkhor Street or the monumental Potala Palace, Reting offers a meditative stillness, surrounded by the largest ancient cypress forest in Tibet. Established in 1056 AD by Dromtonpa, the chief disciple of the great Indian master Atisha, this monastery is the first and most important seat of the Kadam School of Tibetan Buddhism. For travelers interested in authentic Tibetan monastic history, sacred trees, and high-altitude nature, Reting Monastery is a destination that rewards those willing to venture beyond the Lhasa city limits.

The Ancient Cypress Forest

Ecological and Spiritual Significance

The cypress grove around Reting Monastery is not a typical forest. Covering several square kilometers on the slopes of the Nyainqentanglha Range, these trees are known locally as shugpa (cypress) and are regarded as holy. Local tradition holds that the trees possess spiritual merit equivalent to scriptures; cutting or damaging them is considered a serious offense.

The forest is a unique high-altitude ecosystem, with some trees estimated to be over a thousand years old. The dense canopy filters sunlight, creating an atmosphere of deep calm that pilgrims and visitors alike remark upon.

The Cypress King

Within the forest stands the famous Cypress King, a massive tree with a trunk so wide that it takes several people to encircle it. Tibetan folklore connects these ancient cypresses to the protector deities of the monastery, and some legends claim they grew from the hair of the 7th-century emperor Songtsen Gampo.

While the exact age of the Cypress King is not scientifically verified, its towering presence makes it a focal point for circumambulation and meditation. Visitors often leave prayer scarves (kata) tied to its lower branches.

Lingkhor Path

A Lingkhor (circumambulation path) winds through the cypress forest, passing by mani stone piles and prayer flags. This path offers a gentle walking route that takes about 45 minutes to an hour at a slow pace, allowing for quiet reflection.

The forest floor is covered with fallen needles, and the air is noticeably cooler than in Lhasa. Photography here works best in the soft light of early morning or late afternoon, when the low sun filters through the branches.

Historical Significance

Birthplace of the Kadam School

Reting Monastery holds a foundational place in Tibetan Buddhist history. Dromtonpa (1004–1064), a lay teacher and disciple of Atisha, founded the monastery in 1056 after Atisha’s death. The Kadam School emphasized monastic discipline, gradual spiritual training, and the study of texts like the Lamrim.

The monastery became the main seat of the Kadampa lineage for several centuries. The name "Reting" (Radeng) in Tibetan is said to mean "eradicating the root completely," referring to the elimination of cyclic existence (samsara).

Dromtonpa and Atisha

Atisha (982–1054) spent the last twelve years of his life in Tibet, reviving Buddhism after periods of persecution. Dromtonpa was his chief translator and organizer. After Atisha’s death, Dromtonpa gathered the master’s relics and established Reting Monastery to preserve his teachings.

The monastery houses stupas containing Atisha’s remains and those of Dromtonpa. These are located behind the main assembly hall and are a major pilgrimage destination.

Influence on the Gelug School

The Kadam tradition eventually merged into the Gelug school, founded by Tsongkhapa in the early 15th century. Tsongkhapa synthesized Kadam teachings into his own system.

As a result, Reting Monastery is often studied by those tracing the roots of the Gelug lineage. The monastery also played a political role in later centuries: the Reting Rinpoche (the reincarnate lama of the monastery) served as regent of Tibet during the 19th and 20th centuries, particularly during the minority of the 14th Dalai Lama.

Monastery Architecture and Relics

Tsokchen Hall (Grand Assembly Hall)

The main building, the Tsokchen Hall, is built into the mountain slope. Its architecture reflects the Kadam period, which predates the later Gelug style seen in other Lhasa monasteries.

The hall is smaller than those at Sera or Drepung, but it retains ancient murals and wooden pillars that have darkened with age. The focal point is a large statue of Jampa (Maitreya) , the Future Buddha, known as the "Golden Jampa." The statue is coated in gold leaf and dates from the original monastery era.

Golden Jampa and Other Relics

The "Golden Jampa" is the monastery’s most treasured image. Local accounts describe it as being unusually expressive, with a serene gaze. Around the hall, display cases hold butter lamps, ritual instruments, and small clay tsatsa (votive tablets). The walls are covered with murals of Kadam lineage masters, though some sections have faded due to age and lack of restoration.

Stupas of Atisha and Dromtonpa

Behind the main hall, two large stupas contain the cremation relics of Atisha and Dromtonpa. Pilgrims circumambulate these stupas, and it is common to see them prostrating in the dirt courtyard. The stupas are made of clay and decorated with painted eyes and metal crests. A smaller chapel nearby holds a bronze statue of Atisha with his hands in the teaching mudra.

Festivals and Local Culture

Pabang Tang Festival

The most important event at Reting Monastery is the Pabang Tang Festival, held around the 15th day of the 7th month of the Tibetan calendar (usually mid-August). The festival takes place on a meadow called Pabang Tang, located about 30 minutes’ walk from the monastery. The name is associated with the practice of Guanyin (Avalokiteshvara) meditation.

Cham Dances and Thangka Unveiling

During the festival, monks perform Cham dances wearing elaborate costumes and masks representing deities and protectors. The highlight is the unveiling of a giant thangka (sunning of the Buddha) on the hillside. Thousands of pilgrims from Linzhou and surrounding areas gather to receive blessings, picnic, and watch the dances.

The event is colorful and loud, with drums, cymbals, and chanting echoing across the valley. For photographers, this is the prime time to capture both religious pageantry and the alpine landscape at its greenest.

Pilgrim Atmosphere

Outside of festival season, the monastery sees a steady but small flow of pilgrims, mostly from the local area. Unlike the main Lhasa monasteries, Reting is rarely crowded. The Lingkhor path around the forest and the meadow offers a quiet escape. Visitors should respect local customs: avoid photographing inside the assembly hall without permission, walk clockwise around prayer wheels and stupas, and dress modestly.

Practical Travel Information

Best Time to Visit

Summer (June to August) is the peak season. The cypress forest is lush and green, and temperatures are warm (daytime highs around 18–22°C / 64–72°F). July and August have the highest chance of rain, but showers are usually short. Autumn (late September to October) offers spectacular foliage: the cypress needles turn golden and the sky is clear. Winter (November to March) can bring snow and road closures; the monastery may be inaccessible for days at a time. Spring (April to May) is transitional, with possible dust storms and cold nights.

Getting There

Reting Monastery is about 150 km north of Lhasa. The road from Lhasa to Linzhou county town is a good asphalt surface. From Linzhou, a county road leads north through the valley to the monastery. This section involves mountain driving with switchbacks, but the road is generally paved.

No public bus runs directly; most travelers hire a private vehicle or join a guided tour from Lhasa. The drive takes roughly 3–4 hours one way, depending on road conditions and stops. Foreign travelers should confirm their permits cover travel beyond Lhasa (the area may be considered open, but it is wise to check with a Tibetan travel agency).

Altitude and Safety

The monastery core sits at approximately 4,200 meters (13,780 feet). This is higher than Lhasa (3,650 m). Visitors should spend at least two days acclimatizing in Lhasa before attempting the drive. Symptoms of altitude sickness (headache, nausea, fatigue) are possible.

Bring a pulse oximeter, drink plenty of water, and avoid alcohol. If you feel severely unwell, descend to Lhasa. Medical facilities near the monastery are basic; the nearest hospital is in Linzhou.

Accommodation and Facilities

Accommodation at the monastery is very basic. A few guesthouses provide simple rooms with shared bathrooms and cold water. Many visitors prefer to return to Lhasa in the same day, but this makes for a long drive (7–8 hours round trip).

Camping in the cypress forest is an option for experienced outdoor travelers, but requires a self-sufficient setup (no gear rental nearby). Linzhou county town has a few hotels with slightly better amenities. Restaurants are limited; pack snacks and a packed lunch.

Photography Notes

The cypress forest is a photographer's dream. A wide-angle lens is useful for capturing the scale of the trees. The Lingkhor path offers opportunities for frames with prayer flags.

Inside the Tsokchen Hall, natural light is dim; a fast prime lens (f/1.8 or faster) and a tripod may help, but flash is typically prohibited. The Pabang Tang Festival is ideal for a telephoto lens (70–200mm or longer) for Cham dance close-ups. Always ask permission before photographing monks or pilgrims up close.

Who Should Visit and Who Should Skip

Ideal for: History enthusiasts interested in pre-Gelug Tibetan Buddhism. Nature lovers who appreciate high-altitude forests. Photographers seeking unique landscapes away from Lhasa’s crowds. Pilgrims wanting a less commercialized destination.

Consider skipping if: You have only one or two days in Lhasa and are not acclimatized to high altitude. You have mobility issues – the monastery involves walking on uneven paths and climbing steps. You dislike long drives on rural mountain roads. You require comfortable accommodations and reliable Wi-Fi.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

1. Where is Reting Monastery located?

It is located in Linzhou County (Lhundrup), Lhasa City, Tibet Autonomous Region, about 150 km north of Lhasa city.

2. What is the altitude?

The core area of the monastery is at approximately 4,200 meters. Visitors should be acclimated to high altitudes before visiting.

3. What is the best time to visit?

The best time is from May to October. July and August are lush and green, while late September to October offers stunning autumn colors. The Pabang Tang Festival (usually August) is also a peak time for cultural experience.

4. How is the road condition?

The road from Lhasa to Linzhou and up to the monastery is generally a paved asphalt road, making it accessible for most vehicles, though it involves mountain driving with switchbacks.

5. Is there accommodation nearby?

Conditions are basic. There are guesthouses near the monastery, or visitors can stay in Linzhou county seat. Camping is also an option for outdoor enthusiasts.

6. Do I need a permit?

As of general regulations, foreign tourists in Tibet require a Tibet Travel Permit for Lhasa; travel to Linzhou may be allowed under that permit, but confirm with your tour operator. The area is not a restricted border zone, but rules can change.

7. Is the monastery open year-round?

The monastery is theoretically open every day during daylight hours, but heavy snow can close the access road in winter. Check weather conditions before going.

8. Can I take photos inside the assembly hall?

Photography inside the Tsokchen Hall is often prohibited or requires a special donation. Always ask a monk for permission before taking any picture inside.

9. How long should I plan for the visit?

A typical visit from Lhasa takes a full day (7–8 hours driving plus 2–3 hours at the monastery). If you stay overnight, you can explore the forest and Lingkhor at a relaxed pace.

10. What should I bring?

Bring warm clothing (layers), rain jacket, sunglasses, sunscreen, high-energy snacks, reusable water bottle, altitude medication if prescribed, and a headlamp if camping. Cash is necessary; there are no ATMs near the monastery.