Red Army Trench Banma: Long March History & Primeval Forests

# Red Army Trench (Hongjungou) – A Long March Relic in Banma’s Primeval Forests

## Why Visit the Red Army Trench?

### A Unique Convergence of History and Nature

The Red Army Trench (Hongjungou) in Banma County, Golog Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture, Qinghai Province, is not a conventional military fortification. Instead, it is a canyon corridor where the Chinese Red Army rested and carved revolutionary slogans into cliffs during the Long March of 1936.

The site sits inside the Mar River forest area, one of the best-preserved primeval highland forests in Qinghai. This combination of outdoor recreation, revolutionary heritage, and Tibetan cultural history makes it a singular destination for travelers interested in Red Tourism as well as alpine wilderness.

Most tourists who come to Qinghai focus on the lakes (Qinghai Lake, Chaka Salt Lake) or the more developed parts of the Tibetan Plateau. Banma and the Golog region remain off the main circuit. The Red Army Trench offers a quieter, deeper experience for those willing to navigate the logistical challenges of southeastern Qinghai.

### The Long March’s Qinghai Connection

The Red Army’s Long March is one of the 20th century’s most dramatic military retreats. While the main route passed through Sichuan, Gansu, and Shaanxi, a branch of the 2nd and 4th Front Armies entered Qinghai through the Banma region in July 1936, staying for more than 20 days.

This period marks the only time the Red Army had a sustained presence inside Qinghai Province. The trench preserves this chapter with stone inscriptions, remnants of a temporary command post, and the Red Army Bridge—a simple wooden structure spanning a mountain stream.

### Who Should Go and Who Should Skip

**Ideal for:** History buffs focused on Chinese revolutionary history, photographers seeking dramatic cliffside slogans amid lush forests, travelers on a longer Qinghai itinerary who want to explore beyond the well-known spots, and those interested in the intersection of Red Culture and Tibetan Buddhism.

**Not ideal for:** Travelers pressed for time (the site requires at least half a day with difficult access), those uncomfortable with thin high-altitude air (3,550 m), people seeking polished museum-style exhibits (the site is open-air and rustic), or families with very young children (long walks on uneven terrain). If you expect informative English signage, you may be disappointed; most interpretation is in Chinese.

## Historical Significance: The 1936 Long March in Banma

### The Red Army’s 20-Day Stay

In the summer of 1936, the 2nd and 4th Front Armies, under commanders including He Long and Zhu De, traversed the rugged terrain of what is now Banma County. According to local historical sources, the soldiers were exhausted and short on supplies after crossing the grasslands of Sichuan. The Mar River canyon provided water, shelter, and forage.

During their stay, the Red Army established temporary headquarters in Tibetan homes, respecting local customs and protecting religious structures such as Mani stones and monasteries. This period of restitution is often highlighted as an example of ethnic solidarity between Han soldiers and Tibetan herders.

The exact number of troops that passed through the trench is not recorded in verified sources, but the site is recognized as a Qinghai-level Patriotic Education Base and a key Red Tourism attraction.

### Stone Inscriptions in Zizida Valley

The most tangible relics are the slogans carved into the cliff faces of Zizida Valley. Weathering has taken a toll, but inscriptions such as “Save the Nation, Resist Japan” (抗日救國) remain legible.

The carvings were created using simple tools—chisels and hammers—by soldiers resting in the valley. They are not large-scale propaganda murals but rather modest, direct statements that reflect the urgency of the anti-Japanese war effort combined with the Long March’s survival narrative.

These inscriptions are rare because many similar carvings elsewhere in China have been damaged by development or natural erosion. The remoteness of Banma likely helped preserve them. Visitors should approach with respect; the stone is fragile.

### Relics: Headquarters, Bridge, Dwellings

Beyond the inscriptions, the site contains the remains of a temporary command post, the Red Army Bridge (a narrow wooden plank bridge crossing a tributary of the Mar River), and several cave-like dwellings or rock overhangs where soldiers slept. These structures are not reconstructed in any museum style—they remain in their original, weathered state.

A small plaque marks the bridge. The lack of interpretive infrastructure is part of the site’s appeal for some visitors but may frustrate others expecting a curated experience.

## Natural Setting: Mar River Primeval Forest

### Highland Forest Ecosystem

The Red Army Trench is situated within the Mar River forest area, which spans roughly 40 square kilometers. The dominant tree species are spruce (Picea spp.) and juniper (Juniperus spp.), forming a dense canopy that shelters mossy undergrowth, wildflowers, and rhododendron bushes.

The forest is classified as subalpine coniferous and is one of the most extensive such stands in Qinghai. The altitude here (around 3,500 m) means the growing season is short; the forest feels ancient and slow.

The Mar River itself is a swift, milky-gray stream fed by glacier melt. Its sound provides a constant white noise through the canyon. The air quality is excellent. Wildlife includes the Tibetan blue bear, wolf, and white-lipped deer, though sightings are rare due to dense cover. Birdwatchers may spot snow partridge, lammergeier, and various finches.

### Photography and Seasons

**Summer (June–August):** The forest is lush green, with occasional flowers. Morning mist often fills the canyon, softening the light. This is the most reliable season for hiking without rain interruption.

**Autumn (September–October):** This is the visually richest period. The conifers remain dark green, but deciduous shrubs and birch trees turn gold and crimson. The stone inscriptions stand out against the autumn palette. Photographers should aim for early or late light to avoid harsh midday shadows in the narrow valley.

**Winter and Spring (November–May):** Snow covers the trail, and temperatures drop below freezing. The road to the site may become impassable due to ice. Only very determined visitors with proper gear should attempt a visit.

The best locations for photography are the Zizida Valley cliff faces (especially around 10 a.m. when the sun first hits the carvings), the Red Army Bridge with the forest background, and the wide-angle view of the Mar River canyon from a nearby ridge.

## Practical Information for Visitors

### Altitude and Safety Considerations

At 3,550 m, the Red Army Trench sits at a moderate altitude for the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau. Most visitors from lower elevations will feel some effects: shortness of breath, mild headache, faster heart rate. Standard acclimatization advice applies: ascend gradually, stay hydrated, avoid alcohol, and spend at least two nights in a similar altitude (e.g., Banma town at 3,500 m) before hiking.

There is no clinic at the site. The nearest hospital is in Banma county town, about 30–40 minutes by car. Mobile phone service is patchy inside the canyon; inform someone of your plans before departing.

The trail is not marked with distances or difficulty ratings. It follows the river for about 2 km to the main inscriptions area and can be extended into the forest. The path is uneven, with rocks and tree roots. Wear sturdy walking shoes. Rain can make sections slippery.

Altitude sickness is real. If you experience severe headache, nausea, or confusion, descend immediately.

### Best Time to Visit

June through September offers the most comfortable weather, with daytime highs of 10–20°C and minimal rain compared to other months. September and October provide the best colors but cooler temperatures (down to 0°C at night). Check local conditions before traveling; the region may have sporadic road maintenance due to its remoteness.

### Getting There

Banma County is in the southeastern corner of Golog Prefecture, about 600 km from Xining by road. Most travelers reach Banma via a two-day drive from Xining through Guoluo (the prefecture capital) or via a shorter drive from Aba (Sichuan Province) to the south. There is no public bus direct to the Red Army Trench; private transport or a hired car is necessary.

From Banma county town, the site is roughly 30 km south. The road is paved to the forest entrance but becomes a gravel track for the last few kilometers. A regular car can manage in dry weather; a 4WD is recommended after rain or in early spring.

No known permit is required for individual visitors as of 2025. However, the area is part of a nature reserve; group visits may need approval from the forest station. Check with a local guide or the Banma tourism bureau.

### Entry and Costs

The site is officially free of charge. There is no ticket booth or entrance gate. Donations to a local village maintenance fund may be suggested but are not mandatory. No guided tours are available on site; hiring a local guide from Banma is recommended for historical context and navigation.

## Frequently Asked Questions

**Where is the Red Army Trench located?**
It is situated in the southern part of Banma County, Golog Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture, in the southeastern corner of Qinghai Province, about 30 km from Banma town.

**What is the historical importance of this site?**
It is where the Red Army 2nd and 4th Front Armies rested for over 20 days in 1936 during the Long March, marking their most significant entry into Qinghai. Stone inscriptions and relic structures remain.

**What is the best time of year to visit?**
The best time is from June to September when the weather is mild (10–20°C) and the grass is green. September and October offer spectacular autumn forest colors.

**Are there any high-altitude concerns?**
Yes, the area is at about 3,500 m. Take standard precautions against altitude sickness. Prepare for temperature drops at night.

**What should photographers look for?**
Key subjects include the stone inscriptions in Zizida Valley, the ancient Tibetan-style dwellings, and morning mist or sunset light on the primeval forests and Mar River.

**Is there English interpretation?**
No. All plaques and displays are in Chinese. A local guide or prepared translation is helpful.

**How much time should I budget?**
Allow a minimum of half a day (3–4 hours on site) plus travel time from Banma. A full day for a relaxed hike and photography is better.

**Are there restrooms or food at the site?**
No facilities exist beyond the parking area. Bring water and snacks. Use the restroom in Banma before departure.

**Can I visit in winter?**
It is possible but not recommended due to snow, ice, and cold. The road may be blocked.

## Planning Your Visit

The Red Army Trench is not a tourist infrastructure hub. It remains a raw, underexplored piece of historical landscape. For travelers already committed to a Golog itinerary, it offers a meaningful detour that combines revolutionary history with pristine highland nature.

Because reliable public information is scarce, consider hiring a local guide from Banma (ask at your hotel or the county tourism office). They can arrange transport, provide historical interpretation, and help navigate the forest trails.

Carry cash (no ATMs near the site), a fully charged phone with offline maps, and warm clothing. The isolation that preserves the inscriptions also means you are responsible for your own safety.

If your interest lies more in outdoor adventure than Chinese revolutionary history, the Mar River forest alone is worthwhile for its untouched conifer groves and alpine atmosphere. But for most visitors, the stone inscriptions remain the focal point—a direct trace of a monumental struggle in an unlikely corner of Qinghai.

## Decision Guidance: Comparing the Red Army Trench to Other Long March Sites

The Red Army Trench is one of several Long March memorial sites across China. How does it compare to better-known destinations?

- **Luding Bridge (Sichuan):** A heavily visited site with a reconstructed bridge and museum. It offers more polished infrastructure but lacks the natural wilderness setting of Banma.
- **Maoergai Snow Mountain (Sichuan):** A challenging hike where the Red Army crossed at high altitude. It is more physically demanding than the trench.
- **Liupanshan (Ningxia):** Known for Mao's poem "The Long March," but the site is a relatively small memorial park.
- **Red Army Trench (Banma):** Best for those seeking a combination of pristine forest, Tibetan culture, and authentic relics without crowds. It is the least developed of the major sites.

If you have limited time in China or cannot handle high altitude, consider visiting Luding or Liupanshan instead. If you want solitude, raw history, and a true sense of the Red Army's environment, Banma is unmatched.

## Safety and Preparation Checklist

- **Acclimatization:** Spend at least two nights in Banma (3,500 m) before hiking.
- **Clothing:** Layered clothing for 10–20°C days and near-freezing nights. Waterproof jacket and sturdy boots.
- **Supplies:** Bring 2 liters of water per person, high-energy snacks, sunscreen, sunglasses, and a hat.
- **Navigation:** Download offline maps (Gaode or Baidu) as mobile signal is unreliable.
- **Health:** If you have heart or respiratory conditions, consult a doctor before traveling above 3,000 m.
- **Weather:** Check forecasts for Banma; avoid visiting during heavy rain due to flash flood risk in the canyon.
- **Communication:** Inform your hotel or a contact in Banma of your expected return time.

## Source Gaps and How to Fill Them

This article relies on available source data. Key gaps remain:

- **Transportation:** No verified bus schedules from Banma to the site. Inquire at Banma's long-distance bus station or hire a local driver.
- **Road conditions:** The last few kilometers of gravel road may be impassable after heavy rain. Ask at your accommodation for the latest status.
- **Permit requirements:** While individual visitors do not need a permit, group tours or campers should contact the Mar River Forest Station. No official phone number is available; local tourism offices can assist.
- **Wildlife safety:** No records of attacks, but Tibetan blue bears are present. Store food properly and make noise on trails.
- **Flash floods:** The Mar River can rise quickly during thunderstorms. Avoid camping in the dry riverbed.

To fill these gaps before traveling, contact the Golog Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture Tourism Bureau via WeChat or phone. Alternatively, connect with travel agencies in Xining that specialize in Golog itineraries.

## Photography Technical Tips

| Subject | Lens | Best Time | Notes |
|---------|------|-----------|-------|
| Cliff inscriptions | 24-70mm | 9:30–11:00 a.m. | Front-lit; use polarizer to reduce glare |
| Red Army Bridge | 16-35mm | Late afternoon | Include forest backdrop; slow shutter for water |
| Forest canopy | 70-200mm | Overcast days | Avoid mid-day harsh shadows |
| Autumn colors | 24-70mm or telephoto | Early morning | Use tripod for depth of field |

The narrow canyon depth can be challenging for composition; experiment with vertical orientation to include both cliff and foreground.

## FAQ – Extended

**Can I climb to the inscriptions?** The carvings are on vertical cliffs; do not attempt to climb. View from the trail or use a zoom lens.

**Are there guided hikes in English?** No regular English tours. Hire a local guide who may have basic English or use a translation app.

**Is camping allowed?** Not officially permitted without permission from the forest station. Overnight stays are not recommended due to wildlife and temperature drops.

**What about drone photography?** Drone use is restricted in nature reserves. Assume it is prohibited unless you obtain prior authorization from the local forestry department.

**How do I get to Banma from Xining?** Most travelers take a bus from Xining to Guoluo (7 hours) then another bus to Banma (4 hours). Alternatively, hire a private car for the entire journey (8-9 hours). There are no direct flights.

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*Note: This article was compiled from available source data. Route specifics, permit requirements, and facility details may change. Verify current conditions locally before traveling.*