The Sanctuary of Silence: Nanzong Nunnery, the Hidden Flower of the Yellow River Canyon

A Hidden Sanctuary Above the Yellow River

1.Hidden deep within the Zhuoma: Mountain range in Jianzha County, Huangnan Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture, Qinghai Province, lies a spiritual haven that stands apart from the grand, bustling monasteries of the plateau: the Nanzong Nunnery (Nanzong Nigu Si). Situated at an altitude of approximately 3,700 meters, this nunnery overlooks the majestic Yellow River (Lijiaxia Reservoir) and the stunning Danxia landforms of the Kanbula National Geopark. Unlike the golden-roofed temples that often dominate the Tibetan landscape, Nanzong Nunnery is a cluster of modest white dwellings clinging to the cliffs, exuding an atmosphere of profound tranquility and asceticism. It is a place where the chanting of nuns blends with the mountain winds, offering a glimpse into the devoted lives of female practitioners in Tibetan Buddhism.

The Spark of the Later Propagation

2.The history of Nanzong: Nunnery is pivotal to the survival of Tibetan Buddhism. In the 9th century, during the persecution of Buddhism by the Tibetan King Langdarma, three eminent monks (known as the "Three Sages of Tibet") fled from Lhasa to this remote canyon to escape destruction. Here, in the caves of Nanzong, they practiced in secret and eventually ordained Lachen Gongpa Rabsal (Mu Zu Sal), ensuring the continuity of the monastic lineage. This event marks the area as a significant origin point for the "Later Propagation" of Tibetan Buddhism in the Amdo region. Although the current buildings are relatively young, the site’s spiritual lineage stretches back over a millennium, making it a sacred location for pilgrims who come to honor the resilience of their faith.

A Village of Ascetics

The architecture of Nanzong Nunnery reflects its Nyingma (Red Sect) heritage and its focus on meditation and simplicity. The complex is centered around a main Assembly Hall (Jingtang), which, while not massive, is richly decorated with Thangkas and statues of Padmasambhava and Green Tara. Surrounding the hall, scattered irregularly across the steep mountain slopes, are hundreds of small, white-washed huts. These are the private residences and meditation cells of the Anis (nuns). Built from stone, wood, and earth, these humble abodes integrate seamlessly with the mountain environment. The sight of crimson-robed nuns walking quietly between these white houses against the backdrop of rugged cliffs creates a scene of striking "Highland Aesthetics" and spiritual purity.

The Path to Enlightenment

3.Visiting Nanzong: Nunnery is a journey of both physical and spiritual ascent. A winding path leads visitors past the nuns' quarters to the Lachen Meditation Cave near the summit, the very spot where the great master Lachen Gongpa Rabsal is believed to have practiced. A kora (circumambulation path) encircles the monastery and the sacred peak, lined with prayer flags and piles of Mani stones carved with mantras. Walking this path offers not only a chance to accrue merit but also provides breathtaking panoramic views. From the high vantage points, one can gaze down at the emerald-green waters of the Yellow River winding through the red sandstone canyon, a contrast of colors that highlights the unique beauty of the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau.