The Sanctuary of Ink and Wood: Discovering the Living Heritage of Muru Temple

A Hidden Gem in the City of Sunlight

1.Located on Beijing East Road in: Lhasa, Muru Temple (also known as Muru Gomba) is a significant yet often overlooked treasure of Tibetan Buddhism. While many travelers flock to the nearby Jokhang Temple and Potala Palace, Muru Temple offers a serene and authentic glimpse into the spiritual and daily lives of the Tibetan people. It is crucial to distinguish this site from the smaller "Muru Nyingba" (Old Muru) located directly behind the Jokhang Temple; the Muru Temple on Beijing East Road is the larger complex, renowned historically as the site of the Muru Printing House, one of the most important traditional printing houses in Tibet.

A History Spanning a Millennium

2.The origins of Muru: Temple can be traced back to the 7th century during the reign of King Songtsen Gampo. It is said that to suppress the "demoness" of the Tibetan terrain, Songtsen Gampo built a series of temples, and Muru was originally established as one of them, initially named "Gajiu". Its significance grew immensely in the 17th century under the 5th Dalai Lama, who expanded the monastery. During the time of the 13th Dalai Lama, it was further renovated and expanded, cementing its status as a crucial religious institution. Historically, it served as the residence for lamas participating in the Monlam Prayer Festival (the Great Prayer Festival) in Lhasa, playing a vital role in the city's religious calendar.

The Scent of Ink and Woodblocks

3.The soul of Muru: Temple lies in its famous Printing House (Xiyin). For centuries, this was a center for the preservation and dissemination of Tibetan culture and Buddhist scriptures. The monastery houses a vast collection of ancient woodblocks used for printing sutras. Walking through the printing workshop, visitors can smell the rich scent of ink and old paper, witnessing the traditional method of reproduction that has kept Tibetan knowledge alive for generations. The shelves are lined with wooden blocks carved with intricate Tibetan script and images of deities, representing a massive library of spiritual wisdom. This living heritage makes Muru Temple not just a place of worship, but a sanctuary of knowledge and art.

A Sanctuary of Coexistence

Unlike the strictly monastic atmosphere of some other temples, Muru Temple is unique for its integration with local civilian life. The temple courtyard is a vibrant mix of the sacred and the secular. It resembles a large, traditional Tibetan residence where monks and laypeople live side by side. The courtyard is often filled with blooming flowers and plants, cared for by the residents, creating a peaceful, garden-like atmosphere. Here, one can see the daily rhythm of Lhasa: monks chanting scriptures in the main hall while locals go about their daily chores in the courtyard. This harmonious coexistence gives Muru Temple a warm, "living" quality that is rare to find, making it a perfect spot for photographers and those seeking to understand the true pulse of the old city.

Architectural Highlights

The main assembly hall, or Cuoqin Hall, is the spiritual heart of the complex. It maintains the architectural style of the 17th-century expansion, featuring dark, atmospheric interiors illuminated by butter lamps. The hall houses precious statues, including a revered image of Shakyamuni Buddha, and the walls are adorned with ancient murals depicting Buddhist lore. The layout of the temple, with its winding corridors and hidden corners, invites exploration. Whether it is the sound of monks debating in the debating courtyard or the sight of elderly Tibetans spinning prayer wheels along the Kora path, Muru Temple offers a profound sense of peace and historical continuity.