The Forbidden City of the Southwest: The Grandeur of the Mu Chieftain's Palace in Lijiang

The Forbidden City of Lijiang

1.Nestled at the southern foot of Shizi: Shan (Lion Mountain) in the heart of Lijiang Ancient Town, Mu Fu (Mu Chieftain's Palace) stands as the supreme symbol of the Naxi people's political and cultural history. Often referred to as the "Forbidden City of the South" or "Forbidden City of Lijiang," this magnificent complex covers an area of 46 acres at an altitude of 2,400 meters. It was the residential and administrative center of the Mu family, the hereditary chieftains (Tusi) who ruled the Lijiang region for 470 years spanning the Yuan, Ming, and Qing dynasties. A local saying goes, "If you haven't visited Mu Fu, you haven't truly seen Lijiang." The palace is not just a grand architectural feat; it is a museum of the Naxi people's glorious past, blending the imperial grandeur of the Central Plains with the rustic charm of the frontier ethnic groups,.

A Dynasty of 22 Generations

2.The history of Mu: Fu is the history of the Naxi rulers. The Tusi system began in the Yuan Dynasty (1253 AD), but the family reached the height of its power during the Ming Dynasty. In 1382, the first chieftain submitted to the Ming Emperor Zhu Yuanzhang, who graciously bestowed upon him the surname "Mu" (木). From then until the Qing Dynasty's "Gaitu Guiliu" policy (replacing hereditary chieftains with government officials) in 1723, the Mu family ruled for 22 generations. They were renowned for their openness to Han culture, introducing advanced production techniques, literature, and landscaping to the Naxi region, making Lijiang a cultural hub of Southwest China,.

Architectural Fusion and the Legend of No Walls

3.The architecture of Mu: Fu is a stunning fusion of Han, Naxi, and Bai styles. It strictly follows the central axis layout typical of Chinese imperial palaces, with major halls aligned north to south. However, unlike the Forbidden City in Beijing or typical Chinese cities, Mu Fu and the surrounding Lijiang Ancient Town have no city walls. Legend has it that because the ruler's surname is "Mu" (木), building a wall (box/kou 口) around it would form the character "Kun" (困), meaning "trapped" or "besieged," which was considered an ominous sign for the rulers,. Despite the lack of walls, the palace exudes authority with its towering gates, golden tiles, and intricate carvings.

A Tour of Cultural Treasures

Walking through the palace is a journey through time. The entrance is marked by the spectacular Zhongyi Archway (Loyalty and Justice Archway), a massive structure made of white jade built during the Wanli era of the Ming Dynasty to honor the Mu family's loyalty to the emperor. Inside, the Yishi Hall (Meeting Hall) served as the administrative heart where the chieftain discussed official business; its grandeur and the famous "Tiger Skin Chair" evoke the power of the past. Further in lies the Wanjuan Lou (Tower of Ten Thousand Volumes), a library that once housed thousands of books, including Dongba scriptures and Tibetan Buddhist texts, symbolizing the Mu family's dedication to learning and culture. At the rear sits the Sanqing Hall, a Taoist temple that served as the family's place of worship, offering a spiritual retreat with panoramic views of the palace roofs against the backdrop of the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain,,.