Middle Temple Huanglong: Nyingma Monastery History & Photography Guide

The Middle Temple (Zhong Si) is one of the most distinctive religious sites within China’s Huanglong Scenic and Historic Interest Area in Songpan County, Aba Tibetan and Qiang Autonomous Prefecture, Sichuan Province. Perched at approximately 3,400 meters (11,155 feet) along the main Huanglong valley trail, this Nyingma (Red Sect) Buddhist monastery forms an integral part of the surreal landscape of turquoise calcified pools, golden travertine shoals, and dense pine forests. Visitors often describe it as the “most poetic religious site in Huanglong” due to the way the red-walled, golden-roofed temple appears to float directly among the pond terraces.

This guide covers everything you need to know before visiting the Middle Temple: its history, cultural significance, practical travel advice, photography opportunities, and safety considerations.

Why Visit the Middle Temple?

The Middle Temple offers more than a typical religious experience. Its setting is unique: surrounded by calcified pools that shimmer in shades of jade and azure, the temple merges human faith with natural wonder.

Unique “Temple in the Pond” Landscape

The most photographed feature of the temple is its relationship with the surrounding water. Unlike many mountain monasteries that stand on high ground, the Middle Temple sits at the same elevation as the adjacent calcified pools, creating the illusion that the temple is built directly in the water. The red walls, golden roofs, and ornate details reflect perfectly in the still ponds on calm days, producing a mirror image that attracts photographers and nature lovers alike.

This configuration results from the ongoing accretion of calcium carbonate that forms the terraced pools, a process that has continued for millennia. The temple’s foundation rests on a stable section of the travertine deposit, carefully positioned so that the pools lap against its base without undermining the structure. The sight of the temple emerging from the turquoise water is a signature image of Huanglong.

Nyingma Buddhist Heritage

The Middle Temple belongs to the Nyingma school, the oldest of the four major schools of Tibetan Buddhism. The Nyingma tradition emphasizes the teachings of Padmasambhava (Guru Rinpoche), to whom the temple is dedicated. Inside, the walls are adorned with vivid murals and thangkas depicting Padmasambhava subjugating demons and spreading the dharma, painted in the style of Jiarong Tibetan art—bold lines, bright mineral pigments, and detailed iconography.

For travelers interested in Tibetan Buddhist culture without visiting large monasteries in Tibet, the Middle Temple provides an intimate experience. The prayer wheel corridor encircles the temple, where visitors can spin the wheels clockwise while walking, following local custom. The white pagoda and mani stone piles in front of the temple add to the sacred atmosphere.

Photography and Reflection Opportunities

Because of its location among the pools, the Middle Temple is one of the most photogenic spots in Huanglong. Early morning and late afternoon offer the best light for capturing reflections, when the water surface is calm and the surrounding forests cast soft shadows.

Autumn (late September to October) brings a backdrop of golden and red foliage that contrasts with the turquoise water. Summer (June to August) provides lush green surroundings, though rain can make the boardwalks slippery.

History and Cultural Significance

Ming Dynasty Origins and the Nyingma School

The Middle Temple was originally a small Bon religion site during the late Ming Dynasty (Wanli era, 1573–1620). Over time, it was converted to a Nyingma monastery under the influence of traveling lamas. The temple’s location in the middle section of the Huanglong valley gave it strategic importance as a waystation and religious center for travelers crossing the snow mountains.

Throughout the Qing Dynasty, the temple gained a broader reputation. During the Jinchuan campaigns (1747–1776), monks from the Middle Temple provided guides and provisions to Qing troops, securing the region’s loyalty. This relationship continued into the 20th century.

The Red Army Long March Connection

In 1935, the Chinese Red Army passed through Huanglong during the Long March. The monks of the Middle Temple, recognizing the army’s need for medical aid, offered Tibetan medicines and food. In return, the Red Army troops respected the temple’s religious practices and left the structures unharmed.

This exchange is remembered as a rare moment of cooperation between Communist forces and religious communities during the Long March. Today, the temple is sometimes included in themed tours about Red Army heritage in Sichuan.

Architecture and Artifacts

The temple building is a three-story structure in traditional Tibetan style: sturdy rammed earth walls, wooden pillars, and a roof covered with copper tiles gilded in gold. The interior contains several precious objects including a natural mani stone engraved with the mantra “Om Mani Padme Hum,” considered a local treasure.

Murals cover most interior surfaces, though some have faded due to age and humidity. The oldest thangkas date back to the late Ming period and depict protectors of the Nyingma lineage.

Practical Travel Information

Location and How to Reach

The Middle Temple is located in the middle section of the Huanglong valley, approximately 3.5 kilometers from the main entrance (the Welcome Ponds) along the elevated boardwalk trail. Most visitors access it by walking from the entrance.

Alternatively, a cable car (located on the eastern side of the valley) takes visitors to near the summit, from which one can walk downhill to the temple. The one-way walk from the cable car station to the temple is about 2 kilometers, descending through forest and past the Five-Color Ponds (Wucai Chi).

The nearest town for accommodation is Chuanzhusi (also known as Chuanzhu Temple), about 30 kilometers away, or Songpan County town, about 50 kilometers away. Buses and private tours from Chengdu to Huanglong are common, with the journey taking about 6–8 hours.

Altitude and Safety Considerations

The temple sits at approximately 3,400 meters (11,155 feet). This is a significant elevation, especially for travelers arriving from lowland China or sea-level countries. Acute mountain sickness (AMS) is possible. Common symptoms include headache, dizziness, nausea, and fatigue. To reduce risk:

• Spend a night at an intermediate altitude (e.g., Chengdu at 500m, then Songpan at 2,800m) before ascending to Huanglong.
• Walk slowly, avoid running, and stay hydrated.
• Consider carrying portable oxygen cans, sold at most hotels in Chuanzhusi.
• If symptoms become severe, descend immediately to lower altitude (e.g., Songpan, 2,800m).

Because the temple is situated among water pools, the boardwalks can be slippery, especially after rain or in the morning when frost forms. Wear sturdy, non-slip shoes.

Best Time to Visit and Suggested Duration

The best seasons are summer (June–August) for lush vegetation and full pools, and autumn (late September–October) for cooler weather and vibrant fall colors. Winter (November–March) can be very cold, with snow and possible trail closures. Spring (April–May) often sees water levels lower and intermittent closures due to snowmelt.

Most visitors allocate 2–4 hours to reach the temple from the entrance, explore it, and return. This includes time for photography and a brief rest. If continuing to the highest point (the Five-Color Ponds at the top of the valley), add another 1–2 hours.

Ticketing and Entry

The Middle Temple itself is free to visit, as the entrance fee is covered by the general Huanglong Scenic Area ticket. As of current known information, the Huanglong ticket price is around 170–200 RMB (depending on season). The cable car costs an additional 80 RMB one-way (or 120 RMB round-trip).

Operating hours for the scenic area are generally 8:00 AM to 5:00 PM, but these can change seasonally. Check the official Huanglong website or a travel agent before your trip.

Who Should Visit (and Who Should Skip)

Ideal Visitors

• Photography enthusiasts – the reflection shots are unmatched.
• Tibetan Buddhist culture followers – the intimate scale and Nyingma art provide a focused experience.
• History buffs – the Long March connection adds a layer of historical intrigue.
• Moderate hikers – the walk through the calcified terraces is rewarding and not overly strenuous.

Consider Skipping If…

• You have mobility issues – the boardwalks involve many stairs and uphill sections. The temple is not wheelchair accessible.
• You are prone to altitude sickness – 3,400m is challenging for some; consider lower altitude destinations like Chengdu.
• You seek a grand monastery experience – this is a small temple, not on the scale of Labrang or Kumbum. For large Tibetan monasteries, travel instead to Xiahe or Xining.
• You have limited time in Huanglong – the main draw of Huanglong is the travertine pools; if you are pressed for time, you may prioritize the Five-Color Ponds and skip the temple interior.

Photography Guide

Best Angles and Time of Day

• Morning (8:00–10:00 AM): The sun hits the temple from the east, illuminating the red walls and golden roof. The water is usually calm after the night, offering clear reflections.
• Late afternoon (3:00–5:00 PM): Warm golden light falls on the temple, and the crowds thin out after 4 PM.
• Overcast days: Diffuse light reduces harsh shadows and makes the turquoise pools appear more saturated.
• Avoid midday (11:30 AM–1:30 PM): Harsh overhead sun causes glare and washed-out colors.

Respectful Photography Rules

Photography inside the main hall is often restricted. This is a common policy in Tibetan Buddhist monasteries to protect sensitive murals and thangkas from flash damage and to maintain a reverent atmosphere. Do not attempt to sneak photos. If you are unsure, ask a monk or guide. Outside photography is generally allowed, including the prayer wheel corridor and the pool reflections.

Always walk clockwise around the temple, prayer wheels, and stupas. Avoid pointing feet at religious statues or monks. Silence your phone and speak quietly near the temple entrance.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)

1. Where is the Middle Temple located?
It is located in the middle section of the Huanglong Scenic Area, about 3.5 km from the main entrance in Songpan County, Aba, Sichuan.

2. What is the altitude of the Middle Temple?
Approximately 3,400 meters (11,155 feet).

3. What religion does the temple belong to?
It is a monastery of the Nyingma (Red Sect) school of Tibetan Buddhism.

4. Can I enter the temple?
Yes, the interior is typically open to visitors. However, photography is often prohibited inside the main hall. Please respect local customs.

5. Do I need a separate ticket for the temple?
No. Admission is included in the Huanglong Scenic Area ticket. The temple itself does not charge an additional fee.

6. What is the best time to visit?
June to October offers comfortable weather and full calcified pools. Late September to October adds autumn colors.

7. How long should I spend at the Middle Temple?
Allow 2–4 hours total, including walking from the entrance and time for photos. If you take the cable car, the time may be reduced.

8. Is the temple accessible for visitors with disabilities?
No. The path involves many uneven stairs and narrow boardwalks. Wheelchairs or strollers are not suitable.

9. Are there toilets or food near the temple?
Basic restrooms and snack vendors are located near the temple square during the main tourist season. It is best to bring your own water and snacks.

10. Can I visit on an overnight trip?
Most visitors arrive from Chengdu on a day trip (early bus, arrive by 10 AM, return by 5 PM). For a more relaxed experience, stay overnight in Songpan or Chuanzhusi and enter Huanglong early the next morning.

The Middle Temple is a rare convergence of architecture, religion, and geology. Its position among the calcified ponds of Huanglong makes it a must-see for anyone exploring this UNESCO World Heritage site.

Whether you come for the history, the spiritual atmosphere, or the photography, this small monastery will likely be one of your most memorable stops in Sichuan. Plan your trip carefully with altitude considerations in mind, and respect the local traditions to ensure a rewarding visit.