Lu Zuofu Memorial Hall Guide – History of the Yichang Evacuation in Beibei, Chongqing

Few places in China condense such a turbulent chapter of modern history into a single courtyard. Lu Zuofu Memorial Hall (卢作孚纪念馆) stands in Wenxingwan, Beibei District, on the grounds of the former Gorge Defense Bureau (Xiafangju). During the darkest days of the Second Sino-Japanese War, this site served as the command post for one of the most extraordinary logistical rescues ever attempted: the Yichang Evacuation, sometimes called the “Dunkirk of the East.” Today, the memorial hall preserves the story of Lu Zuofu, the industrialist, educator, and social reformer who masterminded that operation and transformed Beibei from a bandit-plagued backwater into a model of rural modernization.

The hall is not a grand museum with blockbuster exhibits. It is a quiet, cyan-brick courtyard building dating from the Republican era, with an atmosphere that invites reflection. For travelers interested in modern Chinese history, wartime resilience, or the architecture of the 1930s, this site offers a meaningful stop in the hills of northern Chongqing.

Who Was Lu Zuofu?

Before exploring the memorial, it helps to understand the man behind it. Lu Zuofu (1893–1952) was a self-taught scholar from Sichuan who, starting with almost nothing, founded the Minsheng Shipping Company in 1925. Over two decades, Minsheng grew into China’s largest private shipping fleet, earning Lu the nickname “King of Shipping.” But his ambitions went far beyond commerce.

From Humble Beginnings to Shipping King

Lu Zuofu had little formal education. He taught himself through reading and correspondence courses, and his early career included teaching and journalism. In 1925, he scraped together capital from local merchants and bought a single small steamer to run passenger and freight services on the Yangtze River.

By the 1930s, Minsheng operated dozens of vessels and had absorbed foreign competitors. Lu’s management style emphasized frugality, discipline, and serving the nation – a philosophy that later proved critical during the war.

The Rural Construction Visionary

In 1927, Lu chose Beibei as the center for his Rural Construction Movement. At the time, Beibei was a poor, remote area plagued by bandits. Lu saw potential.

He personally led public security campaigns, built roads, parks, libraries, a museum, and schools, and attracted educators and scientists to settle there. His vision was to create a “model region” of modern living that could be replicated across China. This work earned Beibei the nickname “Little Wartime Capital” during the war years, when many intellectuals and institutions fled to the relative safety of the hills.

The Yichang Evacuation: “Dunkirk of the East”

The centerpiece of the memorial hall’s narrative is the evacuation of industrial assets from Yichang in 1938. This event is widely considered one of the greatest maritime rescues of the war.

The 1938 Crisis

In October 1938, as Japanese forces advanced toward the Yangtze River port of Yichang, hundreds of thousands of tons of industrial equipment, machinery, and refugees were stranded. Losing this equipment would cripple China’s ability to manufacture weapons and sustain the war effort. The government turned to Lu Zuofu, whose Minsheng Company controlled the largest fleet on the upper river.

Against overwhelming odds – bombing raids, narrow gorges, low autumn water levels – Lu organized a 40-day operation that moved 100,000 tons of strategic materials and 30,000 personnel upstream to Chongqing and Sichuan. He even ordered Minsheng ships to continue running under air attacks, losing 16 vessels and 117 crew in the process. The evacuation preserved the backbone of China’s wartime industry.

The Command Post at Wenxingwan

The Gorge Defense Bureau, where the memorial hall now stands, served as the headquarters for planning and coordinating the evacuation. Maps, telegram logs, and dispatch records were handled from this building. Standing in the main courtyard, visitors can imagine the urgency and chaos of those days. The exhibition includes photographs of the packed docks, sunken ships, and the steely expressions of the crew.

Exploring the Memorial Hall

The hall occupies a rectangular courtyard building covering about 1,500 square meters at an altitude of 225 meters. The architecture alone is worth appreciating.

Architecture and Setting

The structure is a classic example of Republican-era “Eclectic” style: a brick-and-wood frame with Chinese roof curves and Western symmetrical window arrangements. Cyan bricks, dark wooden beams, and grey tiled roofs define the facade. The courtyard is open and airy, with potted plants and stone pathways.

It feels more like an old scholar’s compound than a war command post. The location near the Jinyun Mountain foothills and North Hot Spring adds to the serenity.

Exhibitions and Artifacts

Inside, the permanent exhibition is divided into several chronological and thematic sections. Early rooms cover Lu’s childhood, his founding of Minsheng, and the growth of the company.

Photographs show the early steamships, the company’s office in Chongqing, and workers loading cargo. Later rooms focus on the Rural Construction Movement: old maps of Beibei, photos of newly built schools and parks, and documents from the Western Academy of Sciences, whose former site is nearby.

The wartime section is the most powerful. Glass cases display original telegrams, crew lists, and personal items from Minsheng staff. A restored wooden desk with a telephone and oil lamp represents the command post. Visitors can see the original safe and dispatch box used during the evacuation. The hall does not indulge in melodrama; the artifacts speak for themselves.

The Restored Office and Bedroom

One of the most affecting spaces is Lu Zuofu’s restored office and bedroom. The furnishings are stark: a simple wooden desk, a straight-backed chair, a metal bed with a thin mattress, a washbasin, and a wardrobe. Lu lived modestly despite his wealth, and he refused to draw a high salary from Minsheng.

The room reflects his belief that private gain should be secondary to public service. A placard notes that he often worked 16-hour days and slept in this room during the peak of the evacuation.

Practical Information for Visitors

Location and Access

The memorial hall is at No. 1 Wenxingwan, Beibei District, Chongqing Municipality. It is a short walk from the Former Site of the Western Academy of Sciences and about 2 km from the Beibei city center. Public buses from central Chongqing (such as the Changtuguan bus station) arrive in Beibei, and taxis can reach the hall for a small fare. Driving is also straightforward via the Lanhai Expressway (G75).

Hours and Admission

Admission is generally free, but policies can change. The hall is typically closed on Mondays (common for Chinese museums). Standard opening hours are likely 9:00–17:00, but no official source confirms this. Call ahead or check local listings before visiting. No tickets are required, though you may need to register your ID at the entrance.

Best Time to Visit

Spring (March–May) and autumn (September–November) offer mild weather and clear skies, ideal for exploring the outdoor courtyard and walking around Wenxingwan. Summers in Chongqing are notoriously hot and humid, though the altitude and tree cover around Beibei provide slight relief. Winter is cool and often overcast, but the hall is roofed and comfortable.

Is Lu Zuofu Memorial Hall Worth Visiting?

Who Should Go

• History enthusiasts interested in the Second Sino-Japanese War, Republican-era China, or the logistics of wartime evacuation.
• Travelers with a specific interest in Chinese industrial history or the life of Lu Zuofu.
• Fans of Republican-era architecture who want to see a well-preserved brick-and-wood courtyard building.
• Visitors to Beibei who are already exploring Jinyun Mountain or the North Hot Spring and want a cultural stop.

Who Might Skip

• Travelers short on time who prefer major sites like the Chongqing Three Gorges Museum or Hongya Cave.
• Families with very young children who may not engage with static exhibits (no interactive displays).
• Visitors expecting a modern, immersive museum; the hall is low-tech and relies on text panels and artifacts.

Photography Tips

The courtyard provides good natural light for building shots. The cyan bricks and wooden doors contrast well with green foliage. Inside the exhibition halls, flash photography may be prohibited to protect documents; use a high ISO or a fast lens. The restored office is dimly lit but atmospheric; shoot at f/2.8 or wider. Avoid photographing visitors if they are in the frame without consent.

Nearby Attractions

• Former Site of the Western Academy of Sciences (adjacent).
• North Hot Spring (Beibei Wenquan) – 1.5 km northeast.
• Jinyun Mountain National Nature Reserve – hiking trails and temples, about 3 km away.
• Beibei Old Town – remnants of the rural construction era, including Changhong Kiln and the National Opera School site.

Frequently Asked Questions

Where is the Lu Zuofu Memorial Hall located?
It is at No. 1 Wenxingwan, Beibei District, Chongqing, near the Former Site of the Western Academy of Sciences.

Who was Lu Zuofu?
Lu Zuofu was a Chinese patriotic industrialist, educator, and social reformer. He founded the Minsheng Shipping Company, led the Yichang Evacuation in 1938, and spearheaded rural reconstruction in Beibei.

What is the Yichang Evacuation?
It was a massive emergency transport operation in 1938 that moved China’s strategic industrial assets and refugees from Yichang to the upper Yangtze region, saving the industrial backbone of the nation. It is often compared to the Dunkirk evacuation.

Is there an entrance fee?
The museum is generally free, but confirm current policy before arrival. Most sources report no fee.

How much time is needed for a visit?
Plan 1 to 2 hours to read the panels, view artifacts, and absorb the atmosphere.

Is the hall open on Mondays?
Typically closed on Mondays, like many Chinese museums. Check ahead for holiday exceptions.

Can I take photographs?
Photography is allowed in most areas, but flash may be restricted near fragile documents. Ask staff if uncertain.

Is the site wheelchair accessible?
The courtyard is flat, but some exhibition rooms have steps. No official accessibility data is available; contact the hall directly.

Lu Zuofu Memorial Hall does not compete with Chongqing’s blockbuster attractions for spectacle. Its power comes from the weight of history that its walls contain. Visiting this quiet courtyard in Beibei offers a chance to connect with a story of courage, ingenuity, and self-sacrifice that helped shape modern China.

For those who make the trip, the small details – the worn desk, the fading telegrams, the simple bed – leave a lasting impression. Check opening hours before going, and allow yourself enough time to read the narratives carefully.