Bafang Shisan Xiang Guide: Linxia\u2019s Living Silk Road Museum

Why Visit Bafang Shisan Xiang?

Bafang Shisan Xiang, also known as the Eight Quarters and Thirteen Alleys, is the historical heart of Linxia (formerly Hezhou) in Gansu Province. Unlike many restored ancient towns in China, this district is a continuously inhabited community where the rhythm of daily life remains unchanged for over a millennium. Walking through its alleys, you encounter the living legacy of the Silk Road: Hui, Dongxiang, Salar, and Han residents coexist in a neighborhood shaped by Central Asian traders who settled here during the Tang and Song dynasties.

The primary draw is the Hezhou brick carving, a National Intangible Cultural Heritage that adorns doorways, shadow walls, and eaves. The fusion of traditional Chinese courtyard (siheyuan) architecture with Islamic geometric motifs creates a visual language found nowhere else. For travelers interested in ethnic culture, Islamic art, or off-the-beaten-path urban exploration, Bafang Shisan Xiang offers a rare chance to see a multi-ethnic community that remains authentic rather than a stage set for tourists.

This guide covers everything you need to plan a visit: what to see, how to get there, when to go, and how to navigate the district respectfully.

Understanding the Layout: Eight Quarters and Thirteen Alleys

The name tells you exactly how the district is organized. Bafang (八坊) refers to eight historical neighborhoods, each centered around a mosque. These functioned as self-contained communities for different Muslim ethnic groups, each with its own place of worship, market, and social life.

Shisan Xiang (十三巷) are the thirteen narrow alleys that connect these neighborhoods. The result is an organic grid of winding lanes, dead-ending courtyards, and unexpected open spaces.

The entire area covers about 0.41 square kilometers, roughly the size of 57 football fields. Altitude is 1,920 meters (about 6,300 feet). For comparison, this is lower than Lhasa (3,650 m) but slightly higher than Lanzhou (1,500 m). Most visitors will not notice any altitude effects, but those sensitive to elevation should stay hydrated and avoid rushing.

The district is not gated or ticketed — it is a living residential and commercial zone. You can enter from multiple points, with the main pedestrian routes starting near the intersection of Hongshuihe Road and Qianjin Road.

Key Landmarks Within the Alleys

• Laosaisi Mosque (also called Old Mosque): The largest and most visually striking mosque in the district. Its green-tiled minarets and white walls combine Chinese roof lines with Islamic calligraphy. The courtyard is open to visitors outside prayer times.
• Galeng Courtyard: A restored siheyuan that exemplifies Hezhou brick carving. Look for the intricate floral and geometric patterns on the gate screen and roof ridges.
• Renyi Xiang: One of the most photogenic alleys, lined with brick-carved gatehouses and wooden doors painted in deep red and green. Residents often sit outside in the afternoon.
• Hongshuihe Scenic Belt: A small river walkway along the southern edge of the district, with bridges and pavilions that offer a break from the narrow alleys.

Hezhou Brick Carving: The Art of Solid Lace

Hezhou brick carving is the standout cultural asset of Bafang Shisan Xiang. Unlike the more famous brick carvings of Shanxi or Anhui, Hezhou carvings are distinguished by their deep relief and refined detail, often depicting flowers, fruits, and abstract geometric patterns that follow Islamic aniconic traditions. You will find them on almost every gate in the district.

The craft uses local clay bricks, softened with water and carved with specialty chisels before firing. Master carvers can spend weeks on a single gate screen, creating layers of depth that catch light throughout the day. Some carvings incorporate Chinese symbols like the peony or lotus, harmonized with Arabic-inspired scrollwork.

A good place to examine the carving up close is the Brick Carving Exhibition Hall (rumored to be within the Galeng Courtyard complex). However, the best examples are on everyday homes — the doorways on Renmin Jie (a main alley) are particularly ornate.

Cultural Etiquette and Practical Tips

Because Bafang Shisan Xiang is a residential area with active mosques, visitors should be culturally sensitive.

• Dress modestly: Cover shoulders and knees. Women are not required to wear headscarves, but it is respectful to avoid revealing clothing.
• Prayer times: The call to prayer occurs five times daily. During these 15–20 minute periods, some locals may be inside mosques and the alleys will be quieter. Do not enter mosques during prayer unless invited.
• Photography: Always ask before taking close-up photos of residents, especially elderly people and children. Wide-angle shots of alleys are generally fine.
• Food: The alleys are filled with small eateries serving Hezhou specialties. Try Hezhou baozi (steamed stuffed buns, often with lamb or beef), shouzhua yangrou (hand-grabbed lamb), and sanpaotai tea (a three-ingredient blend of green tea, dried dates, and wolfberries). Most restaurants are cash-only or accept WeChat Pay. Carry small bills.

Best Seasons and Timing

The district is accessible year-round, but the ideal window is May through October. During these months:

• Weather: Daytime temperatures average 18–28°C (64–82°F) with low humidity. Spring and autumn are especially pleasant for walking.
• Festivals: Local Muslim festivals like Eid al-Fitr and Eid al-Adha often occur in this period (dates shift annually). During festivals, the alleys are livelier, and special foods are sold.
• Summer note: July and August can be hot (up to 32°C/90°F), but the narrow alleys provide shade. Carry water.

Winter (November–March) is cold, with temperatures dropping to -10°C (14°F) at night. Fewer visitors but a more tranquil experience. Some open-air food stalls may close.

How to Include Bafang Shisan Xiang in a Gansu Itinerary

Linxia is about 140 km (87 miles) southwest of Lanzhou, approximately a 2.5-hour drive. Most travelers base themselves in Lanzhou and take a day trip to Linxia, though staying overnight allows for a more relaxed exploration.

Route options from Lanzhou:

• Bus: Buses depart from Lanzhou South Bus Station to Linxia city roughly every 30 minutes. The journey costs around 15–20 USD. From the Linxia bus station, Bafang Shisan Xiang is a 15-minute taxi ride (or a 30-minute walk).
• Private car/driver: Many Gansu tour operators offer Linxia day trips that combine Bafang Shisan Xiang with the nearby Bingling Temple or Liujiaxia Reservoir. Driving allows flexibility and comfort.
• Train: Linxia does not have a high-speed rail station. The nearest is in Lanzhou. Some travelers take a slow train to Lintao and then a bus, but the bus is simpler.

If you are continuing west toward Xiahe (Labrang Monastery) or south to the Tibetan grasslands, Linxia makes a logical overnight stop. The town itself has a handful of mid-range hotels and guesthouses.

Who Should Visit (and Who Might Skip)

Good fit for:

• Travelers interested in Chinese ethnic minorities, particularly Hui and Muslim cultures.
• Architecture enthusiasts focused on vernacular Islamic-Chinese fusion.
• Photographers who enjoy street life and detailed ornamentation.
• Anyone seeking an alternative to the more touristy ancient towns of southern China.

Less suitable for:

• Visitors expecting a polished theme-park experience. The district is lived-in, not manicured. Some alleys have trash or unfinished construction.
• People with mobility issues who cannot handle uneven brick-paved lanes and occasional stairs. Wheelchair access is limited.
• Those on a tight schedule who prefer high-impact sights. The district rewards slow exploration over quick checklists.

Frequently Asked Questions

Where is Bafang Shisan Xiang located?
It is in the old city district of Linxia City, Linxia Hui Autonomous Prefecture, Gansu Province.

What is the meaning of the name "Bafang Shisan Xiang"?
"Bafang" refers to eight historical mosque-centered neighborhoods, and "Shisan Xiang" refers to the thirteen alleys connecting them.

When is the best time to visit?
The ideal time is from May to October, when the weather is pleasant and local ethnic festivals are more frequent.

Is there an entrance fee?
As a living residential district and open cultural area, the alleys themselves are generally free to explore. Specific museums or courtyards within may charge a small fee, but this is variable.

What are the local food specialties?
Don't miss Hezhou Baozi (stuffed buns), local beef and mutton dishes, and the famous three-cup tea (Sanpaotai).

How much time should I allocate?
Two to three hours is enough for a walk through the main alleys and a visit to one or two landmarks. If you want to eat a full meal and sit in a tea house, allow four hours.

Are there English signs?
Limited. Download a map or use a navigation app with Chinese input. The alleys are straightforward enough to wander without getting lost.

Can I take photos of the mosques?
Exterior photos are generally fine. For interior shots, ask at the mosque office or wait for a designated visiting hour. Never photograph worshippers during prayer without explicit permission.

Final Thoughts

Bafang Shisan Xiang is not a spectacle; it is a neighborhood with deep layers of history underfoot and above your head. The brick carvings tell stories of trade and faith, the alleys echo with calls to prayer and children's laughter, and the food connects you to a thousand-year tradition of Silk Road hospitality.

Skip the ticketed attractions if you must, but do not miss this district. It remains one of the most authentic urban experiences on the Gansu section of the Silk Road.

For a deeper dive into Gansu’s ethnic cultures and off-the-beaten-path destinations, consider a guided tour that includes Linxia, Xiahe, and the surrounding grasslands. West China Travel offers private itineraries tailored to your interests.