The Celestial Chessboard of the Tubo Empire: Unveiling the Mysteries of the Lieshan Ancient Tombs

A Frozen Moment in History

1.Located in Jindong: Township (Jindong Xiang), Lang County (Lang Xian), Nyingchi, the Lieshan Ancient Tombs (Lieshan Gumuqun) offer a landscape where time seems to have stood still. Unlike the grand monasteries filled with incense smoke found elsewhere in Tibet, this site presents a stark, solemn beauty. Scattered across a hillside at an altitude of 3,200 meters on the south bank of the middle reaches of the Yarlung Tsangpo River, hundreds of earthen mounds stand silently against the backdrop of mountains and clouds. These are not merely piles of earth; they are the resting places of the ancestors of the Tibetan people, dating back to the Tubo Dynasty (7th–9th centuries). As one of the largest and best-preserved tomb complexes from this era in Tibet, the Lieshan Ancient Tombs serve as a profound gateway into a lesser-known chapter of Himalayan history.

The Chessboard of the Dead

2.The most striking feature of the Lieshan: Ancient Tombs is their unique spatial arrangement. From a distance or a high vantage point, the tomb mounds do not appear random; instead, they are laid out like pieces on a Go game board (Weiqi), scattered yet orderly across the mountain slope. This distinctive "Chessboard" layout is a rare spectacle in Tibetan archaeology, reflecting a specific, perhaps geomantic, planning logic used by the ancient Tubo people. The tombs vary in size, with some forming massive trapezoidal or square earthen platforms constructed from compacted layers of earth and stone. Walking among them, visitors can feel the weight of history and the solemnity of a civilization that once dominated the high plateau before the capital moved to Lhasa,.

Gateway to the Tubo Dynasty

3.Before the rise of the great: Tubo kings who unified the plateau, the Yarlung River valley was the cradle of Tibetan civilization. The Lieshan site is believed to be a significant burial ground for high-ranking officials or royals of that early period. The scale of the tombs and the sophistication of their construction suggest a society with complex social stratification and powerful leadership. While the magnificent palaces may have faded, these enduring earthen pyramids remain as silent witnesses to the glory of the Tubo Empire. They provide a physical connection to the "Zongri" or early Yarlung culture, representing a bridge between the mythological era and the recorded history of Tibet.

The Mystery of the Horse Pits

Adding to the site's historical value is the discovery of sacrificial horse pits in the eastern sector of the tomb complex. Although protected and partially covered today, these pits offer a glimpse into the burial customs of the ancient Tibetans, where horses were integral to the afterlife journey of the deceased. The presence of these sacrificial sites underscores the martial and nomadic roots of the Tubo culture, where the horse was a companion in both life and death. Seeing these vestiges allows travelers to reconstruct the grand and solemn burial rites that once took place here, echoing the connection between the people of the plateau and their animals.

A Landscape of Solitude

Visiting Lieshan is not just about viewing archaeological ruins; it is an immersive experience in the highland landscape. The site is situated in a relatively open valley where the Yarlung Tsangpo River flows. The juxtaposition of the ancient, silent tombs against the vibrant, ever-changing clouds and the eternal flow of the river creates a poetic atmosphere. It is a place for quiet reflection, away from the crowds, where the wind whispers stories of a thousand years ago. Whether you are a history buff or a photographer seeking the raw texture of the plateau, Lieshan offers a hauntingly beautiful perspective on Tibet's past,.