The Sacred Sapphire of the Changtang: A Journey to Dangra Yumtso

The Heart of the Northern Wilderness

1.Deep in the hinterland of the Changtang: Plateau in Northern Tibet, lies a body of water that is as spiritually profound as it is visually stunning: Dangra Yumtso (Dangre Yongcuo). Situated in the Nima County of Nagqu Prefecture, often approached by travelers traversing the wild roads from Coqen County (Cuoqin), this massive lake is the third-largest in Tibet, covering an area of over 830 square kilometers. Unlike the celebrated "Holy Lakes" of Buddhism like Namtso or Manasarovar, Dangra Yumtso holds a unique and ancient status as the supreme sacred lake of the Bon Religion, the indigenous spiritual tradition of Tibet that predates Buddhism. It sits in a deep lake basin, isolated from the outside world by the rugged terrain of the Northern Tibet "No Man's Land," preserving a primitive, untamed beauty that feels like the very edge of the earth.

A Lake of Changing Colors and Ancient Lines

2.The visual impact of Dangra: Yumtso is defined by its mesmerizing color palette and geological history. The lake water is renowned for its clarity and depth—reaching up to 230 meters deep—and its ability to shift colors throughout the day. Depending on the angle of the sun and the weather, the lake transforms from a brilliant turquoise to a deep, mysterious indigo, and sometimes even a milky green, earning it the reputation of a "jade" set in the plateau. One of the most striking geological features visible along the route from Coqen and around the lake is the presence of concentric ancient shorelines. These "rings" on the surrounding hillsides reveal that the lake was once much larger, covering a vast area that included the nearby Dangqung Tso (Dangqiong Cuo). The receding waters have left behind up to 20 distinct terraces, appearing like a giant stairway carved by the gods, a silent testament to the climatic changes of the plateau over millennia.

The Sacred Union: Mountain and Lake

In the worldview of the Bon religion and local Tibetan folklore, Dangra Yumtso is not just a lake but a goddess, the "Soul Lake" of the Changtang. She is eternally paired with the majestic Dargo Snow Mountain (Daguo Xueshan) that rises on her southern bank. This range, composed of seven peaks, stands like a row of white pyramids guarding the turquoise waters. The relationship between the lake and the mountain is seen as a divine union of husband and wife, symbolizing the harmony of the cosmos. For centuries, Bon pilgrims have circumambulated this holy pair, a journey that is considered as meritorious as the kora around Mount Kailash. The presence of the snow peaks reflected in the deep blue water creates a landscape of "Highland Aesthetics" that is stark, grand, and spiritually charged.

The Cradle of the Lost Zhang Zhung Civilization

3.The area surrounding Dangra: Yumtso is believed to be the heartland of the ancient Zhang Zhung (Xiangxiong) Kingdom, a powerful civilization that flourished in western and northern Tibet before the rise of the Tubo Dynasty. On the eastern cliffs of the lake lies the Qiongzong (Khyung Dzong) ruins, said to be the capital or a key fortress of this lost kingdom. Nearby, the village of Wenbu South (Wenbu Nancun) offers a rare sight in the high-altitude pastoral lands of Northern Tibet: agricultural fields. Protected by the microclimate of the lake basin, villagers here cultivate barley and potatoes at 4,600 meters, creating a "Shangri-La" like oasis of green fields and white-walled Tibetan houses against the backdrop of the blue lake and snow mountains. This blend of ancient ruins, living agricultural traditions, and sacred geography makes Dangra Yumtso a living museum of Tibetan history.