Beichan Temple (Tulou Guan): Xining Hanging Temple Guide

Perched on the red Danxia cliffs of Beishan (North Mountain) in Xining, Beichan Temple – also known as Tulou Guan – is a remarkable religious complex that blends architecture, nature, and spirituality. Often referred to as "China's Second Hanging Temple," this site features halls, walkways, and caves built directly into the cliff face.

Visitors come to see the 30-meter open-air Vajra carving, wander through nine caves and eighteen holes, and witness a rare coexistence of Buddhism and Taoism under one sacred roof. This guide covers what is known about the site, what to expect, and practical considerations for planning a trip.

Overview of Beichan Temple

Location and Setting

Beichan Temple sits on the northern side of Xining, the capital of Qinghai Province. The temple complex is built into the red sandstone cliffs of Beishan, part of the region's Danxia landform. Danxia is characterized by vibrant red rocks, steep cliffs, and unusual erosion patterns. At an altitude of 2,320 meters (7,612 feet), the site offers sweeping views over the city and the surrounding valleys.

The temple is also called Tulou Guan, a name that reflects its Taoist heritage ("Guan" means Taoist temple). Over centuries, the site evolved into a shared space for both Buddhist and Taoist worship, making it an unusual religious landmark in western China.

A Historical and Architectural Marvel

The construction of Beichan Temple dates back more than 1,000 years, with major expansions during the Northern Wei and Ming dynasties. Like the more famous Hengshan Hanging Temple in Shanxi, Beichan Temple employs a cliff-hugging design. Wooden beams are wedged into holes drilled into the rock, supporting suspended corridors and pavilions. Visitors climb steep staircases and walk on narrow plank paths to move between the different levels.

The complex is described as having "nine caves and eighteen holes," though the actual number of carved chambers is over 200. These caves vary from small meditation niches to large halls containing statues. The highest structures sit near the mountain summit, where the Tuer Pagoda rises above the temple complex.

Architecture and Caves

The Cliffside Walkways

The most striking feature of Beichan Temple is the network of walkways that cling to the vertical rock face. These structures are supported by a system of wooden pillars and beams that appear to float above the ground. Some sections cross open gaps, requiring visitors to step carefully. The walkways connect different cave chambers and pavilions, creating a route that loops up and down the cliff.

Unlike some hanging temples that rely heavily on modern reinforcement, Beichan Temple retains much of its original structural logic. The depth of the caves provides natural shelter for the wooden elements, helping them survive weather and time.

The 30-Meter Open-Air Vajra Carving

On the eastern side of the cliff, a giant statue of Vajra (a deity in both Buddhism and Taoism) is carved directly into the rock. This figure stands about 30 meters tall and is visible from a distance. Buddhists refer to it as the "Inside Buddha," while Taoists call it the "Queen Mother of the West." The carving is a rare example of dual-religious iconography on a single monument. The detail is eroded in places, but the scale remains impressive.

The Nine Caves and Eighteen Holes

The phrase "nine caves and eighteen holes" is a traditional way of describing the grotto system. In practice, the hillside contains many more cavities, but the original eighteen holes refer to specific chambers that were used for meditation, storage, and worship. Some caves are shallow, while others extend deep into the cliff. The largest caves contain altars and statues, with light entering only through the mouth of the cave.

Exploring the caves requires climbing uneven steps and sometimes stooping through low passages. Flashlights are helpful, as some corridors are dark.

Spirituality and Religious Fusion

Buddhism and Taoism Together

One of the most unusual aspects of Beichan Temple is that it functions as both a Buddhist and Taoist site. In many Chinese religious places, one tradition dominates. Here, statues of Guanyin (Buddhist) sit alongside statues of Laotzu and other Taoist immortals. The coexistence is not just architectural but ritual: local worshippers may pray at both types of shrines during the same visit.

This fusion reflects Xining's historical position as a crossroads on the Silk Road, where different beliefs and cultures overlapped. The temple has been damaged and rebuilt multiple times, and each restoration respected both traditions.

The Tuer Pagoda

At the top of the mountain stands the Tuer Pagoda, a multi-story structure that serves as a landmark for the entire complex. The pagoda is associated with both Buddhist and Taoist rituals. It is often shown in photographs of the "Beishan Smoky Clouds," the famous scene that occurs when rain or mist wraps around the pagoda and the red cliffs. This phenomenon is considered one of the classic scenic wonders of the Xining area.

The Danxia Landform and Natural Scenery

Red Rock and Green Vegetation

The Danxia landform gives Beichan Temple its dramatic backdrop. The iron-rich sandstone appears in shades of deep red, orange, and rust, contrasting sharply with the green trees and shrubs that grow on the mountain. The effect is especially vivid after rain, when the colors deepen. Photographers often visit in the late afternoon, when the low sun illuminates the rock face.

The "Beishan Smoky Clouds" phenomenon occurs when warm, moist air rises from the valley and condenses around the mountain. The mist can fill the air for hours, softening the outlines of the pagoda and cliffs. This scene is most common in spring and early summer.

Wildlife and Atmosphere

The mountain is home to various birds and small mammals. Visitors may hear birdsong echoing in the caves. The site is quieter than major urban attractions in China, making it a peaceful place to spend a couple of hours. However, crowds can be larger on weekends and public holidays.

Visitor Experience and Planning

Best Time to Visit

The best seasons to visit Beichan Temple are spring, summer, and autumn. Winters in Xining are cold and dry, with occasional snow. While the temple may be open, the outdoor walkways can be slippery. Summer offers warm temperatures and the highest chance of seeing the Smoky Clouds. Autumn provides clear skies and pleasant temperatures.

Ticket and Hours

The temple is a paid attraction, but exact ticket prices were not available at the time of writing. Similarly, opening hours are not officially published in English or widely shared online. Based on general practice for similar sites in Qinghai, the temple likely opens around 8:00 or 9:00 AM and closes between 5:00 and 6:00 PM. Always check with your hotel or a local tour operator for current information.

Getting There

Beichan Temple is located on the north side of Xining. From the city center, it is about 15–20 minutes by taxi. There may be public buses going toward Beishan, but taxi is the most straightforward option. The temple entrance is at the base of the mountain, followed by a climb of several hundred steps to reach the main halls. No cable car or elevator is available.

How Long to Allocate

A visit typically takes two to three hours, including walking time, photography stops, and exploring the main caves. Visitors who want to climb to the Tuer Pagoda should add another 30–45 minutes.

Who Should Visit – and Who Should Skip

Who Will Enjoy It

• Photographers – The red cliffs, hanging structures, and mist provide strong visual subjects.
• Religious history enthusiasts – The Buddhist-Taoist coexistence is genuinely rare.
• Travelers interested in unusual architecture – The cliffside design is unique in Qinghai.
• Visitors who can manage moderate physical activity – The site involves climbing stairs and narrow walkways.

Who Might Want to Skip

• Travelers with severe mobility issues – The path is not wheelchair accessible; many areas require stepping over high thresholds and climbing steep stairs.
• Those who dislike heights – The walkways are open to one side and can feel exposed.
• People on tight schedules – Xining has other attractions; if you only have one day, you may prioritize Ta'er Monastery or Qinghai Lake.

Safety and Altitude Considerations

Altitude Effects

At 2,320 meters, Beichan Temple is not extremely high, but it is above the threshold where some people feel mild altitude symptoms. Visitors arriving in Xining directly from low-altitude areas (e.g., sea level) should allow one day to acclimate before climbing the temple steps. Common symptoms include shortness of breath, headache, and dizziness. Stay hydrated, avoid heavy meals before climbing, and rest when needed.

Physical Demands

The route involves many stone steps, some uneven and without handrails. Wear sturdy closed-toe shoes. The walkways may be narrow, with only a low barrier on the cliff side. If you are uncomfortable with heights, consider staying on the lower platforms.

There is no guardrail on some ancient sections. Parents with small children should keep a close hold. Overcrowding is unlikely on weekdays, but be cautious on holidays.

Photography Tips

Best Light

Early morning and late afternoon provide warm, angled light that enhances the red rock. Midday sun can be harsh and flatten the colors. In summer, sunrise is around 6:00 AM; sunset around 8:00 PM. The site is open during those hours, but confirm with current opening times.

Lenses

A wide-angle lens (16–24mm on full-frame) is useful for capturing the full scale of the cliff and the hanging corridors. A telephoto lens (70–200mm) can compress the view and emphasize the texture of the rock and the giant Vajra carving. A polarizing filter helps reduce glare from the red sandstone.

Mist Photography

If you want to shoot the Beishan Smoky Clouds, visit on a day when rain or fog is forecast. The mist tends to form in the morning and can dissipate by late morning. Bring a waterproof cover for your camera.

Frequently Asked Questions

Where is Beichan Temple located?
It is located on the North Mountain (Beishan) overlooking Xining City, Qinghai Province.

Why is it called a "Hanging Temple"?
Because its main halls and pavilions are built into the cliffside and connected by walkways high above the ground.

What is the most famous natural phenomenon here?
The "Beishan Smoky Clouds," which occurs when mist and rain surround the mountain and its pagoda.

How many caves are there in the complex?
There are more than 200 caves of various sizes carved into the red cliffs.

Is it a Buddhist or Taoist site?
It is unique for being a site where both Buddhism and Taoism coexist and share the temple grounds.

What is the altitude?
2,320 meters (7,612 feet). Altitude sickness is possible for some visitors.

Are there any entrance fees?
Yes, the temple charges an admission fee. Exact prices were not confirmed; check locally.

Is the site accessible for wheelchairs?
No. The site involves stairs, narrow walkways, and uneven surfaces.

Can I fly a drone here?
Drone regulations in Qinghai are strict, especially near religious sites. Do not fly a drone without obtaining explicit permission from local authorities.

What else is there to do in Xining?
Nearby attractions include Ta'er Monastery (Kumbum), Qinghai Lake, and the Dongguan Mosque.

Note: Operational details such as ticket prices, opening hours, and permit requirements are subject to change. Always verify with a local source before traveling. This guide is based on available information and does not substitute for official advice.